Classic Chic: Music, Fashion, and Modernism

354 Pages·2006·4.014 MB·English

by  Mary E. Davis

Classic Chic

CALIFORNIA STUDIES IN 20TH-CENTURY MUSIC
Richard Taruskin,General Editor
1. Revealing Masks:Exotic Influences and Ritualized Performance in
Modernist Music Theater,by W.Anthony Sheppard
2. Russian Opera and the Symbolist Movement,by Simon Morrison
3. German Modernism:Music and the Arts,by Walter Frisch
4. New Music,New Allies:American Experimental Music in West Germany
from the Zero Hour to Reunification,by Amy Beal
5. Bartók,Hungary,and the Renewal of Tradition:Case Studies in the
Intersection of Modernity and Nationality,by David E.Schneider
6. Classic Chic:Music,Fashion,and Modernism,by Mary E.Davis

Classic Chic
MUSIC, FASHION, AND MODERNISM
Mary E. Davis
UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA PRESS
BERKELEY LOS ANGELES LONDON
The publisher gratefully acknowledges the generous
contribution to this book provided by the Ahmanson
Foundation Humanities Endowment Fund of the
University of California Press Foundation.
University of California Press,one of the most distinguished university
presses in the United States,enriches lives around the world by
advancing scholarship in the humanities,social sciences,and natural
sciences.Its activities are supported by the UC Press Foundation and by
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information,visit www.ucpress.edu.
University of California Press
Berkeley and Los Angeles,California
University of California Press,Ltd.
London,England
© 2006by The Regents of the University of California
Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data
Davis,Mary E.,1959–.
Classic chic :music,fashion,and modernism /
Mary E.Davis.
p. cm.
Includes bibliographical references and index.
isbn-13:978–0-520–24542–6(cloth :alk.paper)
isbn-10:0–520–24542–3(cloth :alk.paper)
1.Musicians—Clothing—20th century. 2.Fashion—History—20th
century. 3.Popular culture. 4.Popular music—History and
criticism. I.Title. II.Series.
ml3470.d37 2006
700.9’041—dc22 2005035586
Manufactured in the United States of America
15 14 13 12 11 10 09 08 07 06
10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1
The paper used in this publication meets the minimum requirements of
ansi/niso z39.48–1992(r1997) (Permanence of Paper).
For Richard Gordon

Contents
List of Illustrations xi
Acknowledgments xvii
1
MAGAZINES, MUSIC, AND MODERNISM 1
2
PAUL POIRET 22
3
LA GAZETTE DU BON TON 48
4
GERMAINE BONGARD 93
5
VANITY FAIR 117
6
COCO CHANEL 153