Chez Panisse Fruit

349 Pages·2002·4.07 MB·English

by  Alice L. Waters

ACKNOWLEDGMENTS
Once more, thanks are due first to the Chez Panisse cooks I asked to help me set
recipes down on paper for this volume, especially Kelsie Sue Kerr, now a chef in
the restaurant downstairs, and Samantha Greenwood Wood, a former anchor of
the dessert kitchen; both of them helped shape the book’s contents from the
beginning. Recipes also came to us from Tracy Bates, Mary Canales, Patricia
Curtan, Sarah Egri, Carly Meyer, Jean-Pierre Moullé, Charlene Nicholson,
Gilbert Pilgram, Tasha Prysi, Jehnee Rains, Charlene Reis, Alan Tangren, David
Tanis, and Anthony Tassinello—all present or former Chez Panisse cooks
without whose dedication Chez Panisse could not survive. Our gratitude extends
to four great contributors from outside the restaurant: Marion Cunningham,
Carol Field, Niloufer Ichaporia, and Shirley Sarvis.
The essays about individual fruits are largely the work of my collaborator,
Alan Tangren, the pastry chef at Chez Panisse, whose career at the restaurant has
taken him from an early beginning in our kitchens to many years as our “forager
—our procurement officer, so to speak, and as such, the person responsible for
forging our relationships with the scores of mostly local growers and suppliers
who bring us the beautiful ingredients that, as we boast on our menu, are almost
without exception organically grown and sustainably produced. My other
collaborator, Fritz Streiff, has once again served as my editorial mouthpiece and
mastermind, testing, correcting, writing, and rewriting at every stage of the
project.
For their generosity with their expertise, our hearty thanks to Ernie and Chris
Bierwagen, Ray Copeland, Darrell Corti, Al Courchesne, Bill Fujimoto, David
Karp, C. Todd Kennedy, Andy Sarhanis, Didar Singh, Jonathan and Lucy
Tolmach, and Sue at the Racha Café.
As always, my partner, Lindsey Shere, has been a particular inspiration to
me. Pastry chef for twenty-six years, she tested recipes and made suggestions
that were especially welcome; and the immense influence of her esthetics and
perfectionism on her successors is reflected everywhere in this book. Warm
thanks are also owed to the other recipe testers and tasters, among them Thérèse
Shere, Yoon Ki Chai, Tomas Salis, Nancy Satoda, and numerous other friends
and relatives. And I would especially like to thank Cristina Salas-Porras for her
invaluable help in coordinating the logistics of the entire project.
Probably most important of all, Chez Panisse Fruit owes the extraordinary
beauty and serenity of its illustrations and the clarity and just proportions of its
design to Patricia Curtan, who also helped conceive the book almost eight years
ago.
Lastly, this book could never have been brought to fruition without the
understanding of our editor, Susan Friedland; we thank her again for her
enthusiasm, her acumen, and her patience.
CONTENTS
Acknowledgments
Introduction
About the Illustrations
APPLES
Applesauce
Curly Endive Salad with Celery Root, Apples, and Pecans
Spit-Roasted Pork with Onion-and-Apple Marmalade
Cabbage Salad with Apples and Walnuts
Poulet à la Normande
Sautéed Duck Foie Gras with Caramelized Apples
Calvados Apple Custard Tart
Apple Paste
Pink Pearl Apple Galette
Green Apple Sherbet
APRICOTS
Middle Eastern–Style Lamb Stew with Dried Apricots
Lulu’s Apricot Compote with Green Almonds
Apricot Soufflés
Dried Apricots
Apricot Galette
Apricot Jam
Apricot Hazelnut Tart
BANANAS
Fried Plantains
Caramelized Red Banana Tartlets
Banana Fritters with Rum Honey Syrup
Banana Waffles
BLACKBERRIES
Peach and Blackberry Crostata
Blackberry and Gravenstein Apple Galette
Blackberry Jelly
Blackberries in Rose Geranium–Red Wine Syrup
BLUEBERRIES
Blueberry Buttermilk Pancakes
Blueberry and Lemon Tart
BOYSENBERRIES, LOGANBERRIES, OLALLIEBERRIES, AND THEIR RELATIVES
Boysenberry Jam
Boysenberry Soup with
Bitter Almond–Flavored Parfait and Elberta Peaches
Domed Berry Cake
Olallieberry Cobbler
CAPE GOOSEBERRIES OR POHA BERRIES
CHERRIES
Roasted Duck with Cherries
Cherry Soup à la Maxim’s
Brandied Cherries
Pickled Cherries
Cherry Clafoutis
Sour Cherry Pie
CITRON
Sautéed Scallops with Citron
Panforte
Shaved Citron Salad
Candied Citron
CRANBERRIES
Cranberry Upside-Down Cake
Cranberry Walnut Tart
Raw Cranberry Relish
CURRANTS: RED, WHITE, AND BLACK
Cumberland Sauce
Pickled Currants
Squab Salad with Pickled Currants and Watercress
Currant Jelly
Black Currant Ice Cream
Frosted Red Currants
Summer Pudding
DATES
Moroccan Chicken with Dates
Stuffed Dates
FIGS
Anchoïade with Figs
Fig and Grape Salad with Pancetta Crostini
Quail Salad with Roasted Fig Vinaigrette
Grilled Bacon-Wrapped Figs
Dried Figs Poached in Red Wine
Fig Cookies
Baked Black Mission Figs with Lavender Honey Ice Cream
Fig and Raspberry Galette with Chartreuse
GRAPES
Zinfandel Grape Schiacciata
Verjuice
Sardine Pasta with Fennel and Raisins
Grapes Roasted in a Wood Oven
Fresh Grape Juice
Sicilian-Style Swordfish Stuffed with Currants and Pine Nuts
Raisin Shortbread Cookies
Concord Grape Sherbet
GRAPEFRUIT, PUMMELOS, AND THEIR RELATIVES
Vin de Pamplemousse
Grilled Salmon with Citrus Sauce
Citrus Risotto alla Regaleali
Ruby Grapefruit, Avocado, and Spring Onion Salad
Candied Grapefruit Peel
HUCKLEBERRIES
Apple Huckleberry Crisp
Grilled Squab with Huckleberry Sauce
Huckleberry Ice Cream
KIWIFRUIT
Spring Fruit Compote with Kiwifruit Sherbet and Coconut Meringue
Kiwifruit Sherbet
KUMQUATS
Endive and Kumquat Salad
Gilbert’s Spring Onion and Kumquat Relish
Candied Kumquat Ice Cream and Meyer Lemon Sherbet Tartlets
Candied Kumquats
Kumquats and Prunes with Crème Fraîche
Kumquat Marmalade
LEMONS
Meyer Lemon Lemonade
Crab Salad with Meyer Lemon, Endive, and Watercress
Meyer Lemon Relish
Moroccan Preserved Lemons
Judy’s Deep-Fried Lemons and Artichokes
Meyer Lemon Sherbet
LIMES
Samantha’s Lime and Mint Cocktail
Silver Limeade
Scallop Ceviche
Halibut Tartare with Lime, Coriander, and Shallots
Chinese Watermelon Radishes with Salt and Lime
Key Lime Meringue Pie
LOQUATS
Sicilian Loquat Compote
Catherine’s Loquat Sauce
MANDARINS AND TANGERINES
Crêpes Suzette with Pixie Tangerine Sherbet
Tangerine and Chocolate Semifreddo
Clementine Sherbet in Its Shell à la Norvégienne
Tangerine Soufflés
Sliced Mandarins with Lavender and Honey
MANGOS
Mango Salsa
Mango Salad with Hot Pepper
Green Mango Salad with Shrimp and Avocado
Mango Sherbet with Tropical Fruit Macédoine
Mango with Sauternes
MELONS
Pickled Watermelon Rind
Melon Gelato
Watermelon Agua Fresca
Melon as a First Course
MULBERRIES
Mulberry Sherbet
Mulberry Ice Cream
NECTARINES
Pistachio-Stuffed Nectarines
Preserved Nectarines
Nectarine and Blackberry Crisp
White or Yellow Nectarine Sherbet
ORANGES
Dried Orange Peel
Grilled Duck Breast with Seville Orange Sauce
Blood Orange and Beet Salad
Candied Orange Peel Dipped in Chocolate
Blood Orange Sponge Cake Tart
Candied Orange and Almond Tart
Orange Ice Cream
Blood Orange Tartlets with Caramel
PAPAYAS
Tropical Fruit Sherbet
PASSION FRUIT
Passion Fruit Sherbet
Passion Fruit Soufflés
PEACHES
Pickled Peaches
Grilled Cured Duck Breast with Pickled Peaches
Vin de Pêche
Peach Melba
Peach Pie
Peach and Raspberry Gratin
Peach Shortcake
Almond Tartlets with Peaches
Peach Leaf Parfait
PEARS, EUROPEAN AND ASIAN
Butternut Squash and Pear Purée
Asian Pear and New-Crop Walnut Salad
Upside-Down Pear and Red Wine Tart
Wine-Poached Pears with Warm Chocolate Fondant
Pear-Shaped Pear Tartlets
Pears Poached in White Wine
Spiced Pears
Marsala-Baked Pears
PERSIMMONS
Fuyu Persimmon Salad with Pomegranates, Belgian Endive, and Walnuts
Salad of Persimmons, Pears, and Pomegranates with Wine Grape
Vinaigrette
Persimmon Cookies
Persimmon Pudding
Dried Persimmons
PINEAPPLES
Ginger Pineapple Upside-Down Cake
Pineapple Frangipane Tart
PLUMS AND PLUOTS
Rabbit Stew with Prunes
Pork Loin Stuffed with Wild Plums and Rosemary
Tea-Poached Prunes
Prune-Armagnac Ice Cream
Wild Plum Jam
Plum Paste
Santa Rosa Plum Tart
POMEGRANATES
Rocket Salad with Pomegranates and Toasted Hazelnuts
Grilled Quail with Pomegranates and Curly Endive