Chez Panisse Café Cookbook

391 Pages·1999·11.34 MB·English

by  Alice L. Waters

D
EDICATION
F C B , , , .
OR ATHERINE RANDEL CHEF MENTOR AND FRIEND
A
CKNOWLEDGMENTS
T
HIS cookbook could not have happened without the collaboration of three dear
friends: David Tanis, former Café chef and the most wonderful cook, who
helped plan and write the book, gathering all the recipes, testing, and rewriting
them; Fritz Streiff, former Chez Panisse cook and Café host and my faithful
word processor, who went over the manuscript checking grammar, typography,
and style; and David Lance Goines, the artist whose illustrations and design for
this book so perfectly express its spirit—and who has eaten in the Café since the
day it opened.
We were inspired by two unforgettable past Café chefs, Catherine Brandel
and Peggy Smith; the two extraordinary Café chefs at present, Gilbert Pilgram
and Russell Moore; and by my partner Lindsey Shere, who continues to
encourage and enlighten us. Alan Tangren, currently pastry chef and formerly
our first full-time forager, provided invaluable support by researching and
writing most of the material in the chapter introductions; and Kelsie Sue Kerr,
another former chef, pitched in with additional knowledge and recipe testing.
The other contributors to the book are the following Chez Panisse cooks and
friends: Tracy Bates, Diane Bouma, Phillip Dedlow, Amy Dencler, Anne Dickey,
Jenny Emanuel, Michael Emanuel, Brian Espinoza, Niloufer Ichaporia, Sharan
Ikeda, Anna Kovel, Christopher Lee, David Lindsay, John Luther, Scott
McGehee, Jean-Pierre Moullé, Michael Peternell, Gayle Pirie, Tasha Prysi,
Charlene Reis, Mary Robida Canales, Jennifer Sherman, Anthony Tassinello,
David Visick, and Samantha Wood. I want to thank them all for their dedication
to the philosophy of Chez Panisse. I also owe a debt of thanks to all the other
cooks, past and present; the hardworking and devoted floor staff; and our loyal
customers, who have continued to give us the enthusiasm and criticism we need
to help us change and grow.
Finally, my gratitude to our editor, Susan Friedland, for believing in us and
our idiosyncratic method of designing and writing cookbooks.
C
ONTENTS
DEDICATION
ACKNOWLEDGMENTS
PREFACE
CHAPTER 1: VEGETABLES
Garden Lettuce Salad
Romaine Leaves with Anchovy Dressing
Dandelion Salad with Mustard Vinaigrette
Avocado and Beet Salad with Citrus Vinaigrette
Shaved Asparagus and Parmesan Salad
Artichoke, Cardoon, and Endive Salad
Heirloom and Cherry Tomato Salad
Spring Vegetable Bagna Cauda
Grilled Endives with Sauce Gribiche
Minestra Verdissima (A Very Green Soup)
Tuscan Bread, Bean, and Vegetable Soup
Garganelli Pasta with Fava Beans
Morel Mushroom Toasts
Wild Mushroom Pasta Handkerchiefs
Pasta Dough
Wood Oven–Baked Porcini Mushrooms
Vegetable Side Dishes:
Spicy Broccoli Raab
Artichoke Mashed Potatoes
Creamy White Beans
Celery Root Rémoulade
Crispy Pan-Fried Potatoes
Garlicky Kale
Pickled Beets
CHAPTER 2: EGGS & CHEESE
The Perfect Hard-Cooked Egg
Scrambled Eggs Panisse
Wild Nettle Frittata
Green Garlic Pudding Soufflé
Pizzetta with Farm Egg and Prosciutto
Pizza Dough
Crostata di Perrella
Fresh Mozzarella Salad
Baked Goat Cheese with Garden Lettuces
Pan-Fried Stuffed Squash Blossoms
Fresh Ricotta Baked with Herbs and Olive Oil
Green Cannelloni with Ricotta, Yellow Tomatoes, and Basil
CHAPTER 3: FISH & SHELLFISH
Oysters on the Half Shell with Mignonnette Sauce
Oyster Stew with Thyme and Fennel
Salmon Caviar
Gravlax and Cucumber Salad
Jean-Pierre’s Cured Salmon
Slow-Cooked King Salmon
King Salmon in Fig Leaves
Saffron Pasta with Bottarga di Tonno
Rare Yellowfin Tuna with Coriander and Fennel Seed
Tuna Dumplings with Currants and Pine Nuts
Tuna Confit with Green Beans and Shell Beans
Rustic Pizza with Anchovies
Simple Tomato Sauce
Baked Pasta with Sardines and Wild Fennel
Roasted Squid with Bread Crumbs and Oregano
Aïoli (Garlic Mayonnaise)
Venetian-Style Pickled Sand Dabs
Baked Scallops with Prosciutto
Meyer Lemon Relish
Fish and Shellfish Cakes
Salted Atlantic Cod Baked with Tomatoes
Spicy Baked Crab
Basic Fish Stock
CHAPTER 4: BEEF
Beef Carpaccio with Anchovies, Capers, and Parmesan
Steak Tartare Croûtons
Cold Beef Tongue Salad with Salsa Verde
Salsa Verde
Rib Eye Steak with Marrow and Shallots
Roast Beef Sirloin Sandwich
Grilled Skirt Steak with Anchovy and Garlic Sauce
Alice’s Lovage Burgers
Boeuf à la Ficelle with Horseradish Cream
Horseradish Cream
Grilled Tenderloin with Chanterelles, Garlic, and Parsley
Braised Beef Cheeks in Red Mole
Savory Herb Meatballs with Spaghetti
Braised Beef Short Ribs with Gremolata
Bollito Misto
Bolognese Sauce
Basic Beef Stock
Basic Beef Reduction
CHAPTER 5: PORK
Headcheese
Country Terrine with Pistachios
Prosciutto, Spring Onion, and Artichoke Antipasto
Pizza with Bacon, Onions, and Greens
Fennel Sausage with Red Wine
Smoky Garlic Sausage with Kale
Catalan-Style Sausage and Clams
Crépinettes with Swiss Chard
Boudin Blanc
Roast Suckling Pig
Roast Pork Loin with Rosemary and Fennel
Long-Cooked Pork Shoulder
Red Wine–Braised Bacon
Simple Cured Pork Chops
Brine-Cured Pork
Home-Cured Pancetta
CHAPTER 6: LAMB
Spicy Lamb Sausage
Lamb Braised with Tomatoes and Garlic
Grilled Boneless Lamb Leg with Olive Sauce
Lamb Couscous with Turnips, Carrots, and Harissa
Buttered Couscous
Harissa
Soupe au Pistou with Lamb Shanks
Braised and Grilled Spring Lamb
Warm Lamb Salad with Pomegranates and Walnuts
Lamb Innards
CHAPTER 7: POULTRY
Cured Duck Breast “Prosciutto”
Shaved Foie Gras and Rocket Salad
Pigeon Salad with White Bean Toasts
Warm Duck Breast Salad with Green Olive Relish
Duck Confit with Baked Figs
Duck Rillettes Croûtons with Chicory Salad
Duck Legs Braised in Zinfandel
Polenta with Duck Sauce
Grilled Quail with Bread Crumb Salsa
Bread Crumb Salsa
Roast Chicken
Pan-Fried Truffled Chicken Breasts
Grilled Chicken Breasts au Poivre
Pollo al Mattone with Lemon and Garlic
Chicken Ballotine with Chanterelles
Basic Chicken Stock
CHAPTER 8: SWEETS
Affogato
Meyer Lemon Éclairs
Comice Pear Crisp
Panna Cotta
Lindsey’s Chocolate Cake with Sicilian Sabayon
Honey-Pistachio Brittle Ice Cream with Lavender Sauce
Cherry Clafoutis
Angel Food Cake
Plum and Pluot Galette
Galette Dough
Chocolate Espresso Custard