Basque Country Food and Wine

27 Pages·2012·5.32 MB·English

Gastronomy
Wine Tourism
Michelin
Starred
Chefs
Wines with
Top quality
'Protected
ingredients
Designation of Origin'
from land
Rioja Alavesa and Txakoli
and sea
Nanogastronomy

Haute cuisine in miniature
22
Gastro-
Publication date: December 2011
Published by: Basquetour, Basque
Tourism Agency for the Basque nomy
Department of Industry, Innovation,
Commerce and Tourism
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Produced by: Bell Comunicación Wine Tourism
Photographs and texts: Various authors
Printed by: MCC Graphics
L.D.: VI 000-2011
The partial or total reproduction of the texts, maps
and images contained in this publication without
San Sebastián the express prior permission of the editor and the
Bilbao authors is strictly prohibited.
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12
Vitoria-Gasteiz
4 Top quality
ingredients
A country with
resources from land
and sea
12 Wine Tourism
The joy of travel
through fine vintages
22 Cuisine
The delight of sitting
down to dine
34 The Pintxos
42 44 Exquisite cuisine in
miniature
38 The markets
From the 'caserío' to
the market and to
your table
4
42 Gourmet Shopping
Where the
connoisseurs shop
46 44 In season
Spring, summer
autumn, winter
46 Gastronomic
culture
All of the TOP experiences described in
TOP
Great cuisine has to
in this catalogue are subject to change and
EXPE be explained and
may be updated. Therefore, before you
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understood
CE choose an experience and to find out about
prices and schedules, we advise you check
48 Unmissable
the website:
experiences
www.basquecountrytourism.net
50 Culinary dates
Practical
information
BASQUE COUNTRY GASTRONOMY AND WINE TOURISM TOP QUALITY INGREDIENTS
The land and the sea have been generous to the Basques.
A thousand years of wisdom and tradition of the men
and women who work their wonders in restaurants,
gastronomy clubs and kitchens, raises the cuisine and
wine of the Basque Country to a divine status...
a tradition
of innovation
t
his is nothing new: from their vegetable patches is well worth
the mists of time, Basque a try. Those who make their living
cuisine has been firmly from agriculture in Gernika-Lumo,
A country with resources rooted in the ingredients Arratia, Astigarraga, Ordizia, Tolosa,
from their very own lands and waters. Zambrana and Amurrio ensure that
From their arduous history of whale the beans, peppers, chard and leeks
land
from and fishing, the arrantzales (fishermen) are of superb quality.
of Bermeo, Lekeitio, Getaria, San Sebastián
The natural resources from these parts
sea and Hondarribia went on to become
has a short, well-planned journey to
experts in hauling catches of skipjack
your table. The latxa sheep breed
tuna, txipirón (small squid), anchovy,
produces a unique milk that goes on
hake and bream. The same can be
to make the delicious Idiazabal Cheese.
said of the local produce that the
The grapes from wineries in Getaria,
baserritarras (farmers) grow on their
Bakio and Aiara are turned into the
land and through their toil.
inimitable txakoli sparkling wines.
In the Basque Country, you will find a The vineyards of the Rioja Alavesa
land where all of the food, be it hake, region provide their fruit for some truly
skipjack tuna, meet, tomatoes or exquisite wines and the apples from
beans, has a special character. Cold, Astigarraga and Hernani produce
wild waters, green, plentiful pasture, renowned ciders…
strong north winds... they all blend
On your trips to these lands, you will
together with the local wisdom to
discover that the locals also enjoy
produce something truly unique.
plentiful resources in the mountains.
It all comes from In autumn, there are delicious dishes
these parts of woodcock, boar, partridge, pigeon
and rabbit on offer, as well as a wealth
of wild mushrooms. When you try the
Discover and taste what is on offer. You
truffles, you will taste a little piece of
could start with some extraordinary
heaven!
beef, pork or horse meat, from
animals raised in the caseríos The secret of Basque cuisine is its
(traditional Basque farmhouses) and own superb ingredients and centuries
livestock farms. The produce from of tradition.
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BASQUE COUNTRY GASTRONOMY AND WINE TOURISM TOP QUALITY INGREDIENTS
s
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The line-caught hake, the authentic cience and technology have
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northern skipjack and bluefin tuna, monkfish, been applied to fishing
anchovies, txitxarros (jack mackerel), cod, practices, so that now
txautxas (cuttlefish), txipirones (baby about 138,000 tonnes of
From the squid), and many more species that the anchovy live off the Basque coast! So the The Sailor's
arrantzales pull from the sea, arrive anchovy of the Cantabrian Sea remains a
each day on the powerful fishing boats key ingredient on the tables, be it fried, Lekeitio
Sea
and modern vessels to the Basque docks, battered, in oil or en papillote.
famous for their sustainable management
The Cantabrian Sea holds another treasure
of the Cantabrian Sea. here is your chance to accompany the
that regulary features on Basque dinner
fishermen and learn their marine arts.
The anchovies from the Cantabrian Sea, or tables: line-caught hake. Those in the
set sail aboard a fishing boat in pursuit
bokarta as they are known, are renowned know say that its great taste is enhanced
a of a good catch and experience the fish
among connoisseurs. There were once when caught by a simple rod. The
markets, the fishermen's guilds, the
fears about the alarming decline in arrantzales of Hondarribia are masters of
ports and the lighthouses... chat to the
anchovy stocks. However, an exemplary the art. You will see this for yourself when
neskatilas (those in charge of unloading
collaboration of biologists, institutions they arrive in the port.
the fish) and take your pick of the catch.
and arrantzales has achieved a balance
the experience will show you first hand
of catch and consumption. So you can
of the world's best fish life aboard a tuna vessel and you will
once again taste this delicacy.
have the chance to taste delicious fish
that couldn't be fresher.
Off the hook and…
During your visit to the historic Quarter
closely monitored!
and the Basilica of santa María, you will
discover the history and grandeur of the
city's maritime heritage.
www.basquecountrytourism.net
The Canning
industry
It is not just in Orio, Getaria and Lekeitio
where the aroma of grilled monkfish and from the dock
bream fills the air. Each day, the Basque
to the tin
coastal and deep sea fishing fleets bring
home their haul from generous but
unforgiving tides to the fish markets of have a look at a can of tuna in your kitchen cupboard...
salted, preserved and tinned fish from Basque fisheries are world
Hondarribia, Getaria, Mutriku, Ondarroa
renowned. the Basque country is responsible for 10% of the
nation's fish canning industry. A large part of the haul that comes
and Bermeo
into the docks of Biscay and Gipuzkoa are taken to be proces-
sed and canned. skipjack and bluefin tuna dominate over 60% of
the trade. here they process fillets, anchovies, eels and even the
world's largest production of squid ink!
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BASQUE COUNTRY GASTRONOMY AND WINE TOURISM TOP QUALITY INGREDIENTS
The Eusko Label sign of
quality really marks the
difference
The Basque Country's agricultural Caserío Chickens and Eggs, Honey, Milk,
and food industry has its own mark of Basque Lettuce and Tomatoes, Potatoes
distinction known as the 'Eusko Label'. from Álava, Peppers from Gernika, Chillis
This seal of quality and provenance, from Ibarra, Beans from Tolosa, Beans
From the overseen by the Basque Government, is from Gernika, Pinto Beans from Álava and
granted to those products produced, the Natural Basque Country Cider, 'Euskal
processed and elaborated in the Basque Sagardoa'. Don't miss your chance to taste
land the Autonomous Community, whose quality is the delicacies that carry the Eusko Label
well above average. As such, Eusko Label seal of quality... or take some home as
fruit is a guarantee of authenticity. To find a gift.
it, look out for the clear 'K' symbol that
As far as 'designations of origin' are
distinguishes the products.
concerned, in the Basque Country,
There is a wide range of products that there are five products to achieve this
of the highest quailty you can find with the distinctive Eusko classification: the txakolí sparkling wines
Label: Euskal Okela Beef, Basque Milk Lamb, of Álava, Getaria and Biscay, Idiazabal
Northern Skipjack and Bluefin Tuna, Basque Cheese and the wines of the Rioja Alavesa
t region.
he choice is endless... the land The most sought after
dedicated to cultivation and
from land and pastures...
farming demands great effort,
despite the area allocated to straight to your table
agriculture in Biscay and Gipuzkoa
being relatively modest. In Álava, the The tomatoes and lettuces grown in the
countryside is on a different scale. When vegetable patches and caseríos of Hernani,
you visit the region, compare the farming Tolosa, Leioa, Gernika-Lumo and Ayala
output. There are a lot of differences in provide one of the keys to success in
such a reduced space! Basque kitchens. When you try them, you
will appreciate the taste that only passion
and toil can provide.
The potatoes from the Álava region,
both those destined for the kitchen or
replanting, enjoy a well-earned reputation.
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t
BASQUE COUNTRY GASTRONOMY AND WINE TOURISM TOP QUALITY INGREDIENTS
he provenance of Basque food
and farm produce guarantees
an extraordinary quality.
Even the bees that live in the
Basque Country have become specialists
as for each of the many honeys that the
produce, they pollinate the flowers of
lavender, clover, blackberry, rosemary,
eucalyptus and chestnut...! As a result,
the farmers and beekeepers also have a URbIA
different way of doing things.
From the farm and the
caseríos… you are going
From the
to love it all TOP
Stay in a
Caserío,
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In the caseríos and farms of the Basque RIEN caserío
Country, everything takes its time.
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The local caserío chickens, with reddish
plumage and skin and yellow feet, are a Discover what life is like in
only the the result of a careful selection process a traditional caserío converted
and spend their days in the open air. The for agrotourism. you will learn their
calfs born and raised on these pastures customs, taste popular cuisine, pick
'authentic' provide delicious fillets and steaks. The up a few words of Basque and help
great aromas in the kitchens around here the baserritarra (farmer) with his work:
must come form somewhere! producing cheese, cider, honey, jams…
Pick the agrotourism establishment
that takes your fancy and experience
ny of the the tranquility of a rural environment.
Basque if your stay coincides with one of the
Country's local celebrations, markets or festivals
mountains that take place throughout the year, you
offers a gorgeous rural image, which are in for a real treat.
would not be complete without the flocks
www.basquecountrytourism.net
of latxa sheep. The lambs are weaned very
early so that the mothers can produce up
to 11 litres of milk a day! With this mi-
lk, the unique characteristics of Idiazabal
When you travel along the Basque roads,
Cheese are assured.
look out for the images and pictures of
the latxa sheep breed, characteristic of the The prestigious World Cheese Awards
area. You can see them on the bumper in England have recently discovered
stickers of many of the cars. Its a symbol Basque cheeses. From that point
of this unique breed of sheep that enjoys onwards, the recognition and
such renown here. accolades haven't stopped.
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BASQUE COUNTRY GASTRONOMY AND WINE TOURISM WINE TOURISM
the activity of each of the towns around the
Rioja Alavesa region revolves around the world
of wine. Moreover, within the small region, a
whole range of wine tourism attractions are on
offer. This trip will let you learn all there is to
know about grapes, vineyards and wineries
Rioja Alavesa,
renowned quality
The seduction
of the 'other' Basque wines
It may seem obvious to say that
wine is the economic motor of the
not all Basque wine is from the rioja
Rioja Alavesa region but you may
Alavesa region… the provinces of
not be aware just how far back its Getaria, the Biscay coast, Gernika-
reputation dates. Although the title Lumo and Aiara in Álava produce
the 'other' Basque wine that enjoys
of 'qualified' was not awarded to
protection as designation of origin:
the Rioja Designation of Origin until txakoli.
1991, it was in 1787 that the Royal if you would like to discover another
side to wine, uncork a bottle after
Association of Wine-Producers was
seeing how it is made...
founded to foster the cultivation of
vines and develop and improve the Some say it is their
countryside, culture and gastronomy... all rolled into one wines. acidic character that is
If it is a world that interests you, you the key to their success
may like to know that the main varieties
of grape authorized by the Regulatory the whites – as well as the reds and
The pleasure
rosés – have real character and are
Council are, for reds: tempranillo,
growing in presence on dining tables
grenache, graciano, carignan and
around the world, the txakoli sparkling
travelling
maturana tinta. For the whites: viura, wine is made from hondarribia's txuri,
of
malvasía, grenache blanc, tempranillo beltz and munemahatsa grapes. each
area has its own wine tourist route.
blanco, maturana blanca, turruntés,
the txakoli vineyards are somewhat
chardonnay, sauvignon blanc and
unique…
verdejo. Around 79% of the wine
www.txakolidealava.com
produced in the Rioja Alavesa region
through wine
www.bizkaikotxakolina.org
comes from the tempranillo grape.
www.getariakotxakolina.com
It is always interesting to visit the
wineries and soak up the wine culture,
especially in a land that produces
wines that are world renowned for
their quality.
www.turismoriojaalavesa.com
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BASQUE COUNTRY GASTRONOMY AND WINE TOURISM WINE TOURISM
RIOJA
A L A Ve sA
GRAPE hAR vEST
Passion for wine
least one year in barrels and three years But pay attention. There's a lot more to
Each facet of this province of
in bottles). the place than vineyards! The region is
Álava combines traditional and working to restore its ancient olive groves.
Man has also left his mark on Rioja
In Moreda and Lanciego, you can visit two
modern... age old wisdom and Alavesa. The works of architects such as
attractive olive presses and in Barriobusto,
Mazières, Calatrava, Aspiazu, Gehry and
cutting edge technology. Its the an olive oil museum.
Marino, to name a few, can be seen in
know-how of a culture that has the outstanding buildings and wineries, www.turismoriojaalavesa.com
but also certainly the wineries and family www.riojalavesa.com
made wine its passion
owned wine stores in Laguardia, Lapuebla www.alavaturismo.com
de Labarca, Leza and Navaridas will www.rutadelvinoderiojalavesa.com
impress you just as much, despite having www.olivo-adora.org
t less famous creators.
he region of Rioja Alavesa has been
an historic part on the route of
hundreds of cultures making their
way from the Mediterranean to
the Cantabrian Sea. These thousand years
of culture has left a rich mark. Dolmens,
vineyards, olive groves, architectural
LAGUARDIA wonders, burial sites, chapels, bridges,
you will never forget them. the Rioja
paths, wineries and cellars tell tales of
Alavesa wines, along with those from
these lands through the ages.
rioja Baja and rioja Alta, all hold
The Rioja Alavesa region is located the distinction of the rioja Qualified
between the tranquil left bank of the Ebro Designation of origin. Almost three
River and the high slopes of the Cantabria thousand hectares of vineyards are
mountain range that reaches 1000 metres cultivated to produce some excellent
high. This spectacular geography has Crianza, Reserva and young wines. they
forced the locals to plant the vineyards regularly win the top prizes in they
on terraces and gentle slopes with clay international wine contests in which the
and chalky earth that gives the vines and take part.
grapes a special character when producing the 'vendimia' (grape harvest) takes
Crianza wines (aged for at least one year place in september. A great excuse to
in barrels) and Reserva wines (aged for at visit the area!
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BASQUE COUNTRY GASTRONOMY AND WINE TOURISM WINE TOURISM
The imposing structures of the
new wineries underline a new
A route conception of the world and
markets of Rioja Alavesa wines
through the architecture of wine

History
with open walls
Numerous megalithic
monuments tell of a past
ELCIEGO ELvILLAR that dates back 3,000 years
w t
hen on the road from Santiago Calatrava drew inspiration from he Basques discovered the You will also soak up the history here. The On the far west border of Rioja Alavesa,
Laguardia or Lapuebla a wine glass and rows of barrels to attractions of the Rioja Alavesa medieval origins of Rioja Alavesa, between the town of Salinillas de Buradón proudly
de Labarca, Elciego give form to the winery and he region thousands of years ago. the provinces of Navarra and Castilla, maintains its defensive walls, towers and
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comes into view in the came up with Ysios which, next Each of its towns boasts a rich explain the presence of numerous walled the Palace of the Counts of Oñate. This is
distance, it will shine with irridescent to Laguardia, stands out for its historic heritage which can't fail to grab towns. Labraza is one of them. Its excellent where a saltwater spring flows that attracts
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silver, gold and pink sparkles… the proud undulating cover and backdrop of your attention. Some worth noting are the preservation has led it to receiving the hundreds of tourists. You are sure to enjoy
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centrepiece of the new installations at the the Sierra Cantabria. dolmens of Layaza in the port of Herrera, International Award for Walled Towns. The yourself! Schedule in a fun day of wine
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Vinos de los Herederos del Marqués de Riscal Sotillo and San Martín, La Huesera in hundred inhabitants live like feudal lords tourism in Rioja Alavesa.
In Samaniego, the architecture of
winery draws everyone's attention. Within Laguardia, La Chabola de la Hechicera (The in one of Álava's most attractive villages.
a few steps, you can pass from the 21st vine offers a spectacle of light and The wine route Witch's hut) in Elvillar, El Encinal and Los
shadow, with great open spaces of glass Nearby Laguardia dominates the centre
century wineries to the most avant-garde and concrete perfectly integrated with of Rioja Alavesa Llanos in Kripan. Also of great interest are of the province. Its city walls and towers
architecture of the wine world. the numerous Stone Age mortars that have
its surroundings. Iñaki Aspiazu is the shelter a hive of activity in which tourism
been preserved in many towns.
mastermind behind these installations at holds a privileged status. If you have the
Wine presses in titanium
the Bodegas Baigorri winery. Forget the car. there is nothing easier Near to Labastida, you will find the Castros opportunity, take a guided tour which
and glass than hopping on the Enobús and letting de Buradón forts, inhabited since the Iron includes the portal of Santa María Church.
The French architect Philippe Mazières
your guides lead you comfortably Age. Close to Laguardia, the protohistoric It is remarkable for more than just its
designed the CVNE winery in Laguardia,
around the Rioja Alavesa Wine Route. village of La Hoya contains a museum preservation!
In the tourist offices in Laguardia, which was inaugurated by King Juan
this comfortable tourist transport lets that records the ways of life over 3,000
Labastida and Elciego, you can find Carlos de Borbón.
you visit different wineries, from the years. You will be surprised by the violent
information about the constant tourism
Both the wineries of Campillo in Laguardia most traditional to the most cutting history that explains how the inhabitants
initiatives that are going on around the
and Faustino in Oion, offers other attractive edge, walled towns and great bars and met their end, with arrows, fire and spears!
Rioja Alavesa region as well as visits to the
destinations for your trip around the Rioja restaurants along the route.
wineries and cellars. www.alavaturismo.com
Alavesa region.
www.laguardia-alava.com LAbRAZA
The architecture of wine is impressive. www.basquecountrytourism.net
www.rutadelvinoderiojaalavesa.com www.labastida-bastida.org
www.elciego.es
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BASQUE COUNTRY GASTRONOMY AND WINE TOURISM WINE TOURISM

T X A K O L I
t
tXa
he warm, moist winds coming
in from the Cantabrian Sea are
the force behind the cultivation
of great vineyards in the Basque
Country, whose fruit goes on to produce
txakoli sparkling wine, and which are
situated next to the hundreds of caseríos
Ko along the coasts of Guipuzcoa and Biscay,
or in the valley of Aiara-Ayala in the Álava
region. It is twenty years since it achieved
protected designation of origin status, a
A safe bet. With three separate
distinction that led to a positive growth
'designations of origin' - Getaria, Biscay
and evolution of this wine.
and Álava – txakoli sparkling wine
With the winds of the
is sought after throughout the
lI sophisticated and innovative Cantabrian Sea
international wine markets. Its
The areas of Getaria, Zarautz, Amurrio, Bakio
flavour is distinct from any other.
and Orduña offer entertaining tours that
With its appealing acidic character, GETARIA
combine local culture with gastronomy
many say that it complements fish and wine tasting.
well... try it for yourself.
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a wine that crosses borders
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With the taste of txakoli
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you can visit one of the wineries that produces this local delicacy, do a nighttime
tasting perhaps, to discover the secrets of this unique wine.
while you are here, you can also discover coastal and inland villages full of character
and tradition. Along your way, you'll see vineyards of the grape that goes on to work
its magic and become txakoli.
when they teach you how best to accompany the wine with other local products
such as idiazabal cheese, Anchovies from Bermeo or Peppers from Gernika, you'll
start to feel like a true sommelier.
And remember that txakoli from the Basque country boasts 3 designations of origin:
• for Álava (Aiara-Ayala and Alto Nervión) 'Arabako txakolina'
www.txakolidealava.com
• for Getaria (Aia, Orio, Zarautz and Getaria) 'Getariako txakolina'
www.getariakotxakolina.com
• for Biscay (Bakio and Gernika) 'Bizkaiko txakolina'
www.bizkaikotxakolina.org
if you would like to experience a winery tour: www.basquecountrytourism.net
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