Basics Fashion Design 02 Textiles and Fashion

186 Pages·2008·23.85 MB·English

by  Jenny Udale

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EEEEEttttthhhhhiiiiicccccaaaaalllll ppppprrrrraaaaaccccctttttiiiiiccccceeeee iiiiisssss wwwwweeeeellllllllll kkkkknnnnnooooowwwwwnnnnn,,,,, tttttaaaaauuuuuggggghhhhhttttt FFFFFeeeeeaaaaatttttuuuuurrrrreeeeeddddd tttttooooopppppiiiiicccccsssss TTTTThhhhheeeee BBBBBaaaaasssssiiiiicccccsssss FFFFFaaaaassssshhhhhiiiiiooooonnnnn DDDDDeeeeesssssiiiiigggggnnnnn JJJJJBBBBB JJJJJeeeeennnnnnnnnnyyyyy UUUUUdddddaaaaallllleeeeessssstttttuuuuudddddiiiiieeeeeddddd BBBBBAAAAA FFFFFaaaaassssshhhhhiiiiiooooonnnnn
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mmmmmeeeeedddddiiiiiccccciiiiinnnnneeeee,,,,, lllllaaaaawwwww,,,,, sssssccccciiiiieeeeennnnnccccceeeee aaaaannnnnddddd sssssoooooccccciiiiiooooolllllooooogggggyyyyy dtdtdtdtdteeeeeeeeeexxxxxssssstttttiiiiiiiiiigggggllllleeeeennnnnsssssiiiiinnnnn iiiiinnnnngggggttttt tttttoooooeeeee pppppxxxxxtttttrrrrriiiiiooooollllleeeeedddddsssssuuuuuccccctttttiiiiiooooonnnnn AAAAAcccccaaaaadddddeeeeemmmmmiiiiiaaaaa iiiiimmmmmppppprrrrriiiiinnnnnttttt cccccuuuuurrrrrrrrrreeeeennnnntttttlllllyyyyy cccccooooommmmmppppprrrrriiiiissssseeeeesssss ny Uny Uny Uny Uny Uics FFics FFics FFics FFics FF TTTTTEEEEEXXXXXTTTTTIIIIILLLLLEEEEESSSSS aaaaannnnnddddd MMMMMAAAAA WWWWWooooommmmmeeeeennnnnssssswwwwweeeeeaaaaarrrrr DDDDDeeeeesssssiiiiigggggnnnnn,,,,, wwwwwiiiiittttthhhhh
bbbbbuuuuuttttt wwwwwaaaaasssss,,,,, uuuuunnnnntttttiiiiilllll rrrrreeeeeccccceeeeennnnntttttlllllyyyyy,,,,, rrrrraaaaarrrrreeeeelllllyyyyy fffffuuuuutttttuuuuurrrrreeeee fffffaaaaabbbbbrrrrriiiiicccccsssss aaaaa cccccooooolllllllllleeeeeccccctttttiiiiiooooonnnnn ooooofffff fffffiiiiivvvvveeeee tttttiiiiitttttllllleeeeesssss,,,,, iiiiinnnnncccccllllluuuuudddddiiiiinnnnnggggg dddddaaaaaaaaaa aaaaa fffffooooocccccuuuuusssss ooooonnnnn iiiiinnnnnnnnnnooooovvvvvaaaaatttttiiiiivvvvveeeee ppppprrrrriiiiinnnnnttttteeeeeddddd ttttteeeeexxxxxtttttiiiiillllleeeeesssss,,,,,
dddddiiiiissssscccccuuuuusssssssssseeeeeddddd iiiiinnnnn ttttteeeeerrrrrmmmmmsssss ooooofffff ttttthhhhheeeee AAAAAppppppppppllllliiiiieeeeeddddd nnnnnaaaaatttttuuuuurrrrraaaaalllll aaaaannnnnddddd mmmmmaaaaannnnn-----mmmmmaaaaadddddeeeee fffffiiiiibbbbbrrrrreeeeesssss RRRRReeeeessssseeeeeaaaaarrrrrccccchhhhh aaaaannnnnddddd DDDDDeeeeesssssiiiiigggggnnnnn,,,,, CCCCCooooonnnnnssssstttttrrrrruuuuuccccctttttiiiiiooooonnnnn,,,,, alealealealealeshshshshshshshshshsh aaaaattttt ttttthhhhheeeee RRRRRoooooyyyyyaaaaalllll CCCCCooooolllllllllleeeeegggggeeeee ooooofffff AAAAArrrrrttttt..... JJJJJeeeeennnnnnnnnnyyyyy
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VVVVViiiiisssssuuuuuaaaaalllll AAAAArrrrrtttttsssss..... YYYYYeeeeettttt dddddeeeeesssssiiiiigggggnnnnn iiiiisssss bbbbbeeeeecccccooooommmmmiiiiinnnnnggggg fffffiiiiinnnnniiiiissssshhhhhiiiiinnnnnggggg ppppprrrrroooooccccceeeeesssssssssseeeeesssss DDDDDeeeeevvvvveeeeelllllooooopppppiiiiinnnnnggggg aaaaa CCCCCooooolllllllllleeeeeccccctttttiiiiiooooonnnnn aaaaannnnnddddd nnnnnnnnnn AAAAANNNNNDDDDD FFFFFAAAAASSSSSHHHHHIIIIIOOOOONNNNN sssssuuuuucccccccccceeeeessssssssssfffffuuuuullllllllllyyyyy lllllaaaaauuuuunnnnnccccchhhhheeeeeddddd hhhhheeeeerrrrr ooooowwwwwnnnnn
aaaaannnnn iiiiinnnnncccccrrrrreeeeeaaaaasssssiiiiinnnnnggggglllllyyyyy iiiiinnnnnttttteeeeegggggrrrrraaaaalllll pppppaaaaarrrrrttttt ooooofffff wwwwweeeeeaaaaavvvvveeeee FFFFFaaaaassssshhhhhiiiiiooooonnnnn DDDDDrrrrraaaaawwwwwiiiiinnnnnggggg..... D D D D D D D D D D wwwwwooooommmmmeeeeennnnnssssswwwwweeeeeaaaaarrrrr lllllaaaaabbbbbeeeeelllll aaaaafffffttttteeeeerrrrr gggggrrrrraaaaaddddduuuuuaaaaatttttiiiiiooooonnnnn
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ooooottttthhhhheeeeerrrrr fffffooooorrrrrmmmmmsssss ooooofffff cccccooooonnnnnssssstttttrrrrruuuuuccccctttttiiiiiooooonnnnn TTTTThhhhheeeeessssseeeee bbbbbooooooooookkkkksssss oooooffffffffffeeeeerrrrr aaaaannnnn eeeeesssssssssseeeeennnnntttttiiiiiaaaaalllll igigigigigigigigigig
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ppppprrrrriiiiinnnnnttttt iiiiinnnnntttttrrrrroooooddddduuuuuccccctttttiiiiiooooonnnnn tttttooooo ttttthhhhheeeee sssssuuuuubbbbbjjjjjeeeeecccccttttt aaaaannnnnddddd 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0
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AAAAAVVVVVAAAAA PPPPPuuuuubbbbbllllliiiiissssshhhhhiiiiinnnnnggggg bbbbbeeeeellllliiiiieeeeevvvvveeeeesssss ttttthhhhhaaaaattttt ooooouuuuurrrrr fffffooooorrrrrmmmmm aaaaa cccccooooommmmmppppprrrrreeeeehhhhheeeeennnnnsssssiiiiivvvvveeeee rrrrreeeeefffffeeeeerrrrreeeeennnnnccccceeeee
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hhhhhaaaaavvvvveeeee aaaaannnnn uuuuunnnnndddddeeeeerrrrrssssstttttaaaaannnnndddddiiiiinnnnnggggg ooooofffff fffffaaaaabbbbbrrrrriiiiicccccsssss ttttthhhhheeeee bbbbbrrrrraaaaannnnnccccchhhhh ooooofffff iiiiinnnnnddddduuuuussssstttttrrrrryyyyy aaaaa pppppooooopppppuuuuulllllaaaaarrrrr ooooorrrrr ttttthhhhheeeee lllllaaaaattttteeeeesssssttttt ssssstttttyyyyyllllleeeee
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ttttthhhhheeeee rrrrriiiiiggggghhhhhttttt fffffaaaaabbbbbrrrrriiiiiccccc fffffooooorrrrr yyyyyooooouuuuurrrrr dddddeeeeesssssiiiiigggggnnnnnsssss.....
iiiiinnnnn aaaaannnnn ooooorrrrrgggggaaaaannnnniiiiissssseeeeeddddd fffffaaaaassssshhhhhiiiiiooooonnnnn fffffooooorrrrr aaaaannnnn MMMMMaaaaarrrrrllllloooooeeeeesssss ttttteeeeennnnn BBBBBhhhhhööööömmmmmeeeeerrrrr TTTTT aaaaa llllleeeeeccccctttttuuuuurrrrreeeeerrrrr aaaaattttt ttttthhhhheeeee UUUUUnnnnniiiiivvvvveeeeerrrrrsssssiiiiitttttyyyyy ooooofffff MMMMMiiiiiddddddddddllllleeeeessssseeeeexxxxx
JJJJJaaaaassssspppppeeeeerrrrr CCCCChhhhhaaaaadddddppppprrrrraaaaajjjjjooooonnnnnggggg EEEEE
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tttttooooo hhhhheeeeelllllppppp aaaaa nnnnneeeeewwwww gggggeeeeennnnneeeeerrrrraaaaatttttiiiiiooooonnnnn ooooofffff ssssstttttuuuuudddddeeeeennnnntttttsssss,,,,, WWWWWiiiiinnnnnnnnnniiiii LLLLLoooookkkkk NNNNN
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ISBN-13: 978-2-940373-64-2
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£19.95
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BASICS
FASHION DESIGN
Jenny Udale
02
TEXTILES
AND FASHION

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An AVA Book
Published by AVA Publishing SA
Rue des Fontenailles 16
Case Postale
1000 Lausanne 6
Switzerland
Tel: [phone]
Email: [email protected]
Distributed by Thames & Hudson (ex-North America)
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United Kingdom
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Email: [email protected]
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Distributed in the USA & Canada by:
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USA
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AVA Publishing (UK) Ltd.
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Email: [email protected]
Copyright © AVA Publishing SA 2008
All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced,
stored in a retrieval system or transmitted in any form or by any means,

electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording or otherwise, without
permission of the copyright holder.
ISBN 978-2-940373-64-2
10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3
Design by Sifer Design
Cover image courtesy of Daniela Bomba
Production by AVA Book Production Pte. Ltd., Singapore
Tel: [phone]
Fax: [phone]
Email: [email protected]
All reasonable attempts have been made to trace, clear and credit the
copyright holders of the images reproduced in this book. However, if any
credits have been inadvertently omitted, the publisher will endeavour to
incorporate amendments in future editions.
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2 / 3
‘Fashions fade, style is eternal.’
Yves Saint Laurent

1 Louise Henriksen design.
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Contents
Introduction 6
How to get the most out of this book 8
The textile sample 10 Fibres 40 Fabric construction 68
Researching textiles 12 Natural 42 Weave 70
Designing textiles 24 Man-made 48 Knit 76
Textiles into production 32 Yarn 54 Other forms of
construction 84
Future fabrics 36 Dyeing 56
Finishing processes 64

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Textiles used in
Surface treatments 88 Colour and trends 110 fashion design 128
Print 90 Colour 112 Choosing fabrics for
fashion design 130
Embroidery and fabric Trend prediction 120
manipulation 100 Designing with textiles 140
Embellishment 108 Garment construction 142
How will you work? 154

Conclusion 160
Glossary 162
Bibliography 164
Useful resources and Canon 166–175
s
Acknowledgements and picture credits 176 nt
e
Working with ethics 177 ont
C
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Introduction 6 / 7
1 A design from Sandra
Backlund’s Ink Blot Test
‘Working on fabrics, colour and inspiration, garments
collection.
go hand in hand at the beginning of a season as each
one inspires the other.’
Michele Manz, senior director of womenswear for
Converse by John Varvatos
This book is for the textile designer who is interested in the
integration of textile design with fashion and also the fashion
designer who wants to fully integrate garment design with
textiles. Designers who will consider how the scale of a
design will work on the body, how the fabric will function
on the body through drape or structure, and how the fabric
will be cut and finished will benefit enormously from
reading this book.
The book endeavours to cover all the things you need to
know about fashion textiles. It begins with a brief history
of textiles, showing the links with technical innovation and
social developments. It then focuses on the processes of
textile design, including the ethical and sustainable issues
around textiles today. The book also provides practical
information on fibre production, dyeing and finishing
techniques. Also examined is how a fibre becomes a fabric
through construction techniques, for example, weave and
knit, and other more innovative processes. The book
continues by looking at the surface treatment of textiles

including print, embroidery and embellishment, and then
focuses on the way colour and trend can influence textiles
and fashion. The final section gives practical information
on the use of textiles within fashion design, how to choose,
cut and sew fabrics. Additionally, there is a very important
section on fashion and textile designers who work in the
industry, exploring what they do and how they use textiles
within their work.
All the text in this book is underpinned with visual examples
of fashion and textiles from designers who create wonderful
textiles. I hope their work will inspire you and that you gain a
n
1 great deal of pleasure from this book. ctio
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How to get the most out of this book
This book introduces different aspects of textiles and fashion
via dedicated chapters for each topic. Each chapter provides
numerous examples of work by leading fashion designers,
annotated to explain the reasons behind choices made.
Key textiles and fashion principles are isolated so that the
reader can see how they are applied in practice.
Clear navigation
Each chapter has a clear
heading to allow readers
to quickly locate areas of
interest.
The textile sample 24 / 25
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1 Example of a mood board. The next step is to collate the research that you have gathered. You now need to think about what
2–3 Etexcahmnipqluese so.f drawing Torh iost hgeart hseoruinrcge osf oinf fionrsmpiaratitvioe nt ecxatnile bs efr oinm th cel afossrmic toef xmtileoso,d c buoltuarrdess or ybmoeouss ta t troaep gtproyro ianpbgro iatuotet d imte. seDidgenitue marmn tdion hirnoegnw dtheer
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directly with material? As you design you must understand the
basic textile design principles of scale, texture, colour, pattern,
repeat, placement and weight. Consider how these principles work
within a sample and how these samples work together as ranges,
as well as how your designs will result in functional, inspirational or Drawing
commercial textiles suitable for use within contemporary fashion
design and garment construction. Being able to communicate your
ideas through drawing is fundamental
to most design disciplines. However,
it is possible to also use other media
such as collage and photography as
a means of communication.
Experiment with drawing, use
different types of media and be
expressive with line, colour and
texture. Think also about silhouettes
ayonudr bdloecsikgsn .o Cf coonlsoiudre or rw thoenteh ewr ityhoinu
The textile sample 11 addd3rreireaev wectrltiyonioipgnnig n.p gtroe ic nri esape mlrye sooerre ni fta twbhseht araatr ctywtouo rakr eis Researching textiles >Designing textiles > Textiles into production
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as Special section introductions Projects from contemporary
F
d outline basic concepts that designers bring the principles
n will be discussed. under discussion alive.
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8 / 9
Additional information Headings Captions
Box-outs elaborate on These enable the reader to These provide image
subjects discussed in break down text and refer details and commentary to
the main text. quickly to topics of interest. guide the reader in the
exploration of the visuals
displayed.
Colour and trends 118 / 119
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describe the colour, the number can idea to offer some of the basic
be used to identify the hue. Pantone colours and add to them seasonal
charts are arranged chromatically by experimental colours. These colours
colour family and contain 1,925 will add life to the collection and will
colours. They are a great resource, ideally entice the customer to buy
but they are expensive and need to each season’s new colours along with
be replaced as the colours start to the trans-seasonal basics.
fade, making referencing inaccurate.
Skin tone can also have an effect on
Looking at colour under different the colour choice of a garment. Dark
lighting conditions can affect the hue skin looks great against strong, bright
– an incandescent light places a yellow colours, while softer colours work
cast on the hue, while a halogen light better against paler skin.
creates a blue cast.
1
3
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Colours can also be seasonal.
Cold seasons tend to warrant
darker colours, such as blacks,
browns and sludgy colours. As the
season warms up the colours
become lighter and paler. They then
become stronger and brighter as
the sun becomes more intense. The
sun bleaches out pale colours, so if
you are designing for hot countries
consider a brighter colour palette.
Colour and trends TAWhccloohforhlilitdnicedhkeanae rn yso w cs ftt l eeihtwmh xapeteanial te qccewsouk. eli ootf eorwu rHroo ofpautuewaldrnle a s wtitiutaaeemknsae mrso bhifenirrr itgash.ter2 Colour > Trend prediction his book
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