Bargains Abound at the Prada and Gucci Outlets The Details

13 Pages·2003·2.17 MB·English

dreamITALY103 1/15/03 3:20 PM Page 1
The Details
INSIDE:
Italy in America 3
(cid:2)
My Favorite Venetian 4
Rome’sHotelRestaurants 6 Prada Outlet
Mount Etna Awakes 8
News, Tips, Deals and
Events 10
dream of
LOCATION:Levanella Spacceo,
Strada Statale 69, Montevarchi
Phone: [phone]
HOURS:Monday - Saturday,
9:30 a.m. – 7:00 p.m. and
ITALY
Sunday, 2:00 p.m. – 7:00 p.m.
DRIVING:From the A1 motorway, take the
exit marked Baldano. Follow the signs for
Arezzo and then for Montevarchi. You will
pass through a series of traffic lights and
there will be a warehouse/factory on your
left. That’s Prada. There is no sign on the
building; just follow the people. TRAIN:
Volume 2, Issue 1 www.dreamofitaly.com January/February 2003 Take the train from Florence’s Santa
Maria Novella Station to Montevarchi
Bargains Abound at the (1 hour) and continue by taxi (about 20
minutes) to the outlet.
(cid:2)
Prada and Gucci Outlets
Gucci Outlet
T
he build-up is intense. First you Again, by shrewd planning on the part
have to find the elusive of Prada, there’s a café on-site for you
Prada Outlet(officially called to patronize while you wait. In
Space) among the nondescript addition to the very good
buildings in the town of food, the café serves up
Montevarchi, 45 minutes from some fine people watching.
LOCATION: Via Europa 8, Leccio,
Florence. Prada doesn’t put any sign Many of the customers,
Reggello 50060 Phone: [phone]
on the warehouse where it houses its Asians, Americans, Brits
HOURS:Monday - Saturday,
outlet, and the directions it gives out and Italians alike, are
10 a.m. – 7:00 p.m. and
aren’t much help either. Luckily, any dressed in their Prada best
Sunday, 3:00 p.m. – 7:00 p.m.
good citizen of Montevarchi knows the and some look like they are
place and has probably been asked about to walk down the run- DRIVING:From the A1 motorway, take
about it a thousand times already. way. But then there’s also the exit marked Incisa. Stay on the right
the usual tourists in shorts towards Pontassieve until reaching
Then there’s the whole issue of taking and sneakers. And don’t worry, as you Leccio. Soon after passing the center of
a number. Prada allows only 100 shop- eat, you can stare longingly at the Leccio, The Mall will be on the left.
pers inside at one time and averages monitor, indicating the number of the TRAIN:Take the train from Florence’s
about 1,000 visitors a day. So it next group to go inside, willing it to Santa Maria Novella Station to Rignano
employs a rather space age looking move faster. sull’Arno and continue by taxi (about 5
computerized counter to allot numbers minutes) to Leccio. SHUTTLEBUS:
to those shoppers raring to get inside. Once inside, it’s hard to choose which There’s a daily service from Florence to
The wait time can be just a few section to attack first. As you enter, and from The Mall. Call (39) 055 865-77-
minutes or a matter of hours. shoes are directly in front of you, with 75 for more information.
“Was it in short, ever well to be elsewhere when one might be in Italy?” — Edith Wharton
dreamITALY103 1/15/03 3:20 PM Page 2
A
h
Prada/Gucci
continued from page 1
handbags, accessories and collection As with American outlets, Italian out- Prada. It’s housed in an elegant strip
pieces to the right and skin care, sun- lets, including Prada, are the final stops mall, called The Mall,along with
glasses and sportswear to the left. And for last season’s merchandise. So you Bottega Veneta, Giorgio Armani, Loro
the prices are to die for… will find the fluorescent green flats that Piana, Sergio Rossiand Yves Saint
didn’t sell or the shirt with the shred- Laurent outlets.
During a recent summer sale (20% off ded look that fashionistas wouldn’t be
the already deep discounts), small clas- caught dead in. Thankfully, there’s no numbers system
sic Prada handbags were offered at the or waiting to get in, although the outlet
equivalent of $70 each, leather key Yet, Gershman cautions that there can can get crowded. Gucci’s décor exudes
holders at $30, beautiful women’s moc- be some real finds in the mix as well. more elegance than Prada’s and items
casins (similar to J.P. Tod’s) at $50. “Old merchandise can be_ classical are carefully displayed on glass
These were the best shelves. Handbags, shoes, accessories,
bargains and prices men’s clothing and women’s clothing
went up from there. each has a separate salon.
So you could still
spend several hun- Gucci seems to
dred dollars on a have a better selec-
purse, but that’s likely tion of classic
to be half of its origi- pieces than Prada.
nal price. Then there’s You can snap up a
the fact that if you beautiful black
spend over 185 euros leather wallet for
(essentially $185 at the $75. The best find
2 current exchange of a summer shop-
rate), you get the ping spree: a
value-added tax (VAT) small, leather
_
back when you leave purse for $45.
the country. That’s Men’s ties were
20.6%. And how can also about $45. As
you not spend several hundred dollars, with Prada, Gucci
stocking up on gifts for the folks at will give you a
home and presents for yourself. cloth drawstring
bag for each of
International shopping guru Suzy your items.
Gershman says outlet shopping is the enough to not matter,” she says. Keep
smartest way to shop in Italy these in mind that all of the merchandise “At Gucci, I got such bargains, I am
days. “I feel that with the euro, and came from Italian or European stores, still drooling, such as a blue silk sports
now the much weaker dollar, Italian so you could still out-fashion your jacket for my singer-songwriter son, for
outlets are the only way to go,” notes neighbor by buying pieces that may $125,” Gershman boasts.
Gershman, author of Suzy Gershman’s have never been sold in the United
Born to Shop: Italy(Frommer’s, 2001). States. Again, factor in the VAT refund if you
“The savings and quality are great,” spend enough.
she adds. The outlet carries all of Prada’s lines
including Miu Miu, Helmut Lang, Jil If dropping cash makes you hungry,
Sanderand Church’sshoes. The staff is try the café called Caféat the entrance
0 incredibly helpful and free of the atti- of The Mall. It keeps with the shop-
0 tude you will find at many of the ping-theme by continuously playing
label’s stores throughout the world. fashion videos on screens around the
restaurant.
Next stop, Gucci. The Gucci Outletis
only about a half-hour’s drive from Start saving, the outlets are waiting. ◆
“Open my heart and you will see/ Grave
dreamITALY103 1/15/03 3:20 PM Page 3
Italy in America:
Patsy’s in New York City
A
s a magnet for so many Italian the founder’s Neapolitan roots. For 12th, they serve one of his favorite
immigrants over the years, dessert, there’s cannoliand tiramisu. desserts to every guest in the restau-
New York City is rant.
home to an enormous num- Another attraction — Patsy’s is still a
ber of Italian restaurants. family affair and Despite the reverential treatment he
On almost every block their devotion to gave to Sinatra, there is one order
throughout the five bor- the restaurant is Patsy wouldn’t fill for the superstar.
oughs you will find a north- endless. Patsy, When Sinatra asked Patsy to open a
ern or southern Italian- who dressed in a branch near his Palm Springs home,
inspired restaurant or a pizza gray busboy jacket Patsy said, “Can’t do it. To be good we
joint. One among them has so customers have to be at one restaurant, we have
catapulted to great fame and stayed wouldn’t be intimi- to watch every little thing, and we
there: Patsy’shas been a midtown dated to ask him for another glass of can’t do that in two places.” The family
Manhattan landmark since 1944. water, set the tone. When Patsy’s has remained true to the founder’s
daughter Anna was getting married, vision and maintains just one location
Pasquale and Concetta Scognamillo, he told her, “You better pick a day — the original one. ◆
who emigrated from Naples in the early when the restaurant is closed, or most
For more on Patsy’s, read
1920s, started Patsy’s. Ultimately, the of the family won’t be able to come to
Patsy’s Cookbook: Classic Italian Recipes
immigration officials at Ellis Island are your wedding. I’m not going to close
from a New York City Landmark
responsible for the restaurant’s name, the restaurant.” Today, Patsy’s son is
Restaurant (Clarkson Potter, 2002)
since they shortened “Pasquale” to likely to seat you, his daughter and by Sal Scognamillo.
“Patsy.” While Patsy has since passed daughter-in-law sit at the register and
dream of
on, his legacy lives on in a second and his grandson oversees the kitchen. 3
third generation of Scognamilloswho
now run the restaurant. In addition to the food and atmos- ITALY
phere, Patsy’s has something else,
Why do people keep coming back to what you could call “star quality.”
Patsy’s, decade after decade? For one, Every since it opened its doors, Patsy’s
Kathleen A. McCabe
the food hasn’t changed. Patsy’s still has been a favorite haunt for genera-
Publisher and Editor-In-Chief
offers the same authentic Southern tions of showbiz celebrities. Aglance at
Italian dishes it always did. The words the restaurant’s Wall of Fameshows
Copy Editor: Stephen J. McCabe
“nouveau” and “fusion” framed photographs Design: Leaird Designs
Visit: www.leaird-designs.com
have probably never been with salutations from the
spoken inside this restau- likes of Jackie Gleason Dream of Italy,a 12-page newsletter covering Italian
travel and culture, is published bi-monthly. The
rant. Patsy’s Italian Restaurant and James Cagney and
newsletter is available by annual subscription only at
236 West 56th Street contemporary stars such an introductory rate of $45 for delivery by mail and
On the menu: Eggplant New York, NY10019 as Tom Hanks and $35 via the Internet.
Parmigiana; Mussels [phone] George Clooney. Copyright © 2003 Dream of Italy, Inc. All Rights
Open Sunday through Thursday, Reserved. Reproduction in whole or part without per-
Arreganta; stuffed mushrooms; noon to 10:00 p.m. and mission is prohibited.
Minestrone Soup.Current co- Yet, Patsy’s most loyal
Friday &Saturday, Three ways to subscribe:
owner Sal Scognamillo says noon to 11:15 p.m. and most famous patron 1. Send a check to Dream of Italy, P.O. Box 5496,
Washington, D.C., 20016
he’s been serving “red- www.patsys.com was Frank Sinatra. Patsy’s
2.Call 1-877-OF-ITALY(toll-free) or 202-237-0657.
sauce dishes,” such as Penne was his home away from 3.Subscribe online at www.dreamofitaly.com
(Visa and Mastercard accepted.)
Bologneseand Linguine Napolitano,even home and he loved the Clams Posillipo,
Editorial feedback is welcome.
when they went out of style. You can Chicken Picatta, Veal Milaneseand
E-mail: [email protected]
taste tradition in every bite. Patsy’s Pasticiotto(a lemon custard tart topped
Sponsorship and advertising opportunities are
Fettucine Alfredois made the old-fash- with vanilla ice cream) for dessert. The available.
ioned Neapolitan way with egg yolks. Scognamillos are still honoring their E-mail: [email protected]
The seafood — Cassuola di Calamari, favorite patron, who died in 1998. Our Web site, www.dreamofitaly.com, is updated
weekly with the latest news from Italy and informa-
Shrimp Scampi — also pay homage to Every year on his birthday, December
tion on travel deals.
ed inside it, ‘Italy.’ ” —Robert Browning
dreamITALY103 1/15/03 3:20 PM Page 4
My Favorite Vene
I
went to Venice with my hus- and is a non-stop source of both sub- roasted chicken, grilled salmon, pasta
band and our blended family, stantial and trivial information. Andrea with peas and sausage and interesting
but found myself drawn to stores the nuances of Venice in his variations of lasagna. This boisterous,
another man, a head. I never saw him two-room eatery has the atmosphere of
man I met look anything up. I was a neighborhood hangout despite fre-
almost as soon as I set surprised at how often quent guidebook mentions.
foot in Venice. From I conferred with him,
that moment on, the since I had been to For a dressier occasion, noting that our
handsome, immaculate- Venice twice before and four males were more meat than fish
ly groomed and well- had diligently read up eaters, Andrea sent us to Ai Gondolieri,
dressed gentleman was before this trip. which also provides the food for the
always there for me. He Peggy Guggenheim Museum’swell-
anticipated my every My husband and I and regarded café where we had enjoyed
need. He responded to all of our four kids, mouth-watering homemade pastas and
me warmly and was ranging in age from 16 panini the day before.
attentive no matter how to 28, frequently count-
many other people com- ed on Andrea to weigh Going above and beyond is nothing
peted for his attention. our options for us. His unusual for Andrea, but I especially
He was thoughtful and recommendations appreciated the way he threw in extra
knowledgeable. We always made sense, advice. He kept a thick pad of maps on
4 spoke of art, culture and before and afterward. his desk, and always marked them
shopping. He knew the right time with his recommendations and direc-
to drop into ultra- tions. As he worked on each one, he
Andrea Scarpa, concierge extraordi-
Where did I find a man pricey Harry’s Barfor would say something like, “on your
naire of the Saturnia Hotel in Venice
like this? Behind the dessert or a drink is 5 way to Il Cantinonewine store, make
and author Ann Cochran.
concierge desk at the p.m. He knew the sure you look to your left after this lit-
Hotel Saturnia. ongoing Vivaldi performances are tle bridge and you will see our most
touristy and directed us to hear the active gondola yard, Squero di San
Andrea Scarpamakes quite an impres- Orchestra Collegium Ducaleplay Trovaso.” No walk was ever Point A
sion. He is a tall man with dark, wavy Mozart and Bach in the sanctuary of to Point B.
hair, clean-shaven fair skin and perfect the Santa Maria Formosa Church.
posture. The hotel and Andrea comple- Andrea encouraged us to bargain,
ment each other in their distinctive ele- We weren’t interested in snagging seats always, except in the well-known,
gance. Andrea is responsible for guest in the hottest restaurants, so Andrea designer shops. With a flourish, he
relations at the 95-room, four-star used his gastronomic knowledge to said, “They’ll give you a discount if
Hotel Saturnia,which is run by mem- direct us to places that met the descrip- you pay cash, they’ll give you a dis-
bers of the 3rd and 4th generations of tion we gave for our mood and prefer- count if you buy more, they’ll give you
the Serandrei family. They have operat- ences each day. For casual meals, it a discount if there’s no shipping, and
ed this 14th century renaissance palaz- was Vino Vino,a popular wine bar then they’ll give you a gift as you walk
zo as a hotel since 1908. Located on the where the handlebar mustachioed man out the door.”
Calle Larga XXII Marzo, just a few in charge was reminiscent of Seinfeld’s
minutes’ walk from the Correr Soup Nazi. He refused us service one On our last full day in Venice, we
Museum side of St. Mark’s Square, the night because he couldn’t handle a turned to Andrea for help with a major
hotel is ideally situated on a prime party of six. He didn’t say come back dilemma. We had to choose between
shopping street. later, or I’m sorry. It was just “no.” The the Naval Museum,which sounded
place intrigued us enough to return. interesting, and Torcello,the first
As concierges do, Andrea sets the tone When we did, our table was laden Venetian lagoon island to be inhabited
at the front desk. He greets every guest with inexpensive, delicious dishes — as people fled the Huns in the 5th cen-
“Time flows when you rest your arms on the ledges of
dreamITALY103 1/15/03 3:20 PM Page 5
A Concierge’s Venice
etian
Pasticceria Marchiniis a bakery where
they not only bake,they make their own
chocolate,right before your eyes.Location:
Off Campo San Zulian on Spadaria,
676 San Marco;www.golosessi.com
tury. The downside: it is an hour boat no surprise to find out he is a native.
ride away. “No choice,” Andrea insist- When I asked him to tell me about
Visit Coindepartment store for unusual
ed, “You go to Torcello. Amazing. So working at the Saturnia, he said that
bargains on commonplace items made in
different. No one goes there…such a there is very low turnover; many
Italy and designer copies.Location:
shame.” employees start there and retire there,
On the Merceria,the long shopping street
because they find it “a pleasure to
that connects St.Mark’s Square with
He was absolutely right. It was an work for the family.” Many current
the Rialto Bridge.
other-worldly, touching experience to staff members have been there 20 years
visit this almost deserted island. It has or more. Although his English is
The Venice Benettonis huge,dramatically lit
only 18 year-round residents, three almost perfect, Andrea still uses the
at night,and a must if you have teenagers
restaurants, one museum and two occasional odd wording that makes
with you.Location:Merceria 2 Aprile
churches. Its Byzantine cathedral, you smile. For example, he said “There
founded in 639, has incredible mosaics. are no standards” at the Saturnia.
Vino Vinois a good wine bar for a
Walking up the ramps of the nearby When I asked him to explain, he said,
quick and inexpensive meal.Location:
bell tower is tiring, but the panorama “They let you work in your best way,
2007 Calle Sartor,San Marco
is exhilarating. not only one standard way.” That was
a relief.
Try Ai Gondolierifor fine dining at one of
Judging from our experience utilizing
the few Venetian restaurants that does not
Andrea’s skills, concierges can do As a travel writer, I have known and
serve fish.Location:Dorsoduro 366,San Vio,
much more than procure hard-to-get heard about a few great concierges, but
Ponte del Formager;www.aigoldolieri.com
tickets and tables. According to the I personally have never heard of any-
international association Les Clefs one choosing a hotel based on the
To buy wine,visit Il Cantinone.
d’Or, which represents more than 3,000 concierge’s reputation for service, nor
Location:San Trovaso 992,Dorsoduro
concierges at the best international did I ever do so. This trip changed my
hotels, concierges are supposed to be mind. I checked out some other hotels
You must see Santa Maria Gloriosa dei
living guidebooks of their cities. They during my visit. The Monaco and
Frari Church,a breathtaking mid-15th
should be approachable and warm, not Grand Canal Hotel,for one, is under-
century church,filled with Titians and enough
intimidating. going a jaw-dropping renovation fund-
other masterpieces to qualify as a museum.
ed by the Benetton family owners, but
Location:Campo dei Frari,San Polo
Among their ranks, it is not unusual to my heart belongs to the Saturnia…as
encounter incredible linguistic ability. long as Andrea mans the front desk. Campo Santa Margheritais wonderful
Andrea speaks 5 lan- He is worth coming back for people watching.Venetian families gather
guages; he told us he to, as much as the paint- here,children and dogs run around,students
Visit:
speaks Japanese only ings by Tintoretto and eat pizza.Try the gelato and pastries at
halfway. Andrea wore the Canaletto and the famous Causin.Location:Dorsoduro
distinctive lapel pin of Les Hotel Saturnia & vaparettos that transport
Clefs d’Or, two crossed International Venezia lucky resident and tourist Shop at Genninger Studiofor unusual
Via XXIIMarzo 2398
keys. It takes a minimum passengers all the way up glass jewelry made by a wise American who
San Marco, Venice
two years of experience as and down the majestic settled in Venice.Location:Calle de Traghetto,
www.hotelsaturnia.it
a concierge and referrals Grand Canal. ◆ Dorsoduro,next to Ca’Rezzonico;
Prices:146 to 477 euros
from two Clef D’Or mem- www.genningerstudio.com
per room, per night
bers to be considered for — Ann Cochran
(39) 041 520-7131
membership in the associa- Visit Livio de Marchifor sculpted wood
Ann Cochran is a travel,
tion. objects,from tiny books and teddy bears to
health and medical writer whose
life-size cars.Location:San Samuele 3157,San
heart and soul spring to life in Italy,
Although every concierge should have Marco;www.liviodemarchi.com
especially when her family comes along.
a wealth of knowledge, Andrea had so
much to offer about Venice that it was Shop at La Calle,for Santa Maria Novella
perfume,body lotions and soaps.Location:
f Venetian windows.” —Henry James Campo Santa Maria del Giglio,San Marco
dreamITALY103 1/15/03 3:20 PM Page 6
Rome’s Finest Hotel
A
s a rule, hotels generally The a la carte menu changes complete- Chops Aux Herbes and Chicago Rib
aren’t the best places to ly twice a year and is updated at least Eye Steak. In deference to Italian cui-
experience innova- once every season. If zucchini flow- sine, there are also six spaghetti dishes
tive, world- ers stuffed with ricotta and olives on the menu. Arange of desserts
renowned cui- are on the menu during your visit, await to satisfy any craving, including
sine. But that’s you must order them. It’s Apfelstrudel and New York
been changing over the last impossible to go wrong Cheesecake.
decade. More and more, the with any dish. Even the sim-
best dining throughout the ple penne with tomato and Café Romano’s
world’s capitals can be found mozzarella is unlike any you location in the heart
inside hotels. Rome is the per- have ever had. of the city’s Via
fect example. The city’s 4- and Condotti shopping
5-star hotels have ushered in a The staff makes sure to please district makes it the
renaissance in hotel dining. your every whim and will help with perfect stop for
selecting from the 300 labels on the refueling during a
While by no means a comprehensive restaurant’s wine list. hectic day of shop-
list, here are some of Rome’s top hotel ping. The street side
restaurants: If you can’t bear to leave after your tables allow you to check out what
scrumptious dinner, walk just a few other shoppers are carrying by day
La Terrazza feet into the hotel’s piano bar on an and dine on a quiet street in the
open deck overlooking the city. The evening. Café Romano is the least for-
6 La Terrazza d’Hotel Eden is like a fine intimate setting provides the perfect mal of the four restaurants featured
recipe — all of the ingredients create place for an after dinner drink under here.
more than a sum of their parts. Take a the stars. It was also a favorite haunt of
stunning view of Rome’s monuments, Italian director Frederico Fellini who Prices:Entrees start at 20 euros, desserts
add a healthy dose of world-famous insisted on hold- at 10 euros. Open for late (English) break-
cuisine, mix in ing interviews fast, lunch and dinner everyday.
romantic ambiance here. Jacket and tie Reservations:(39) 06 699-81-500
and exquisite but required.
unpretentious Hassler Rooftop Restaurant
service and for Prices:Entrees begin at 22 euros; four
good measure, fin- courses, excluding wine, runs about 150 Rome has more than a few elegant
ish off with a Michelin star. euros per person. Open for breakfast, lunch rooftop restaurants, but the one on the
and dinner daily. Reservations:(39) 06 sixth floor of the Hotel Hassler was the
Executive Chef Enrico Derflingher, 478-121 original, opening in the 1950s. Almost
once the personal chef to Charles and everything that can be said about
Diana, the Prince and Princess of Café Romano Hassler, the hotel, can
Wales, is the mastermind behind La be said about the
Terrazza, on the sixth floor of the luxu- When you’ve had one too many plates rooftop restaurant:
rious Hotel Eden. He’s been with the of pasta or pieces of pizza, head for the world-class; star-stud-
restaurant since it opened in 1994. delightful, quirky Café Romano at the ded; a once-in-a-lifetime
Hotel d’Inghilterra. The international experience; unforget-
None of the tables has a bad view menu is refreshingly eclectic and table.
although it doesn’t hurt to ask for one unlike at other restaurants that try to
right next to the window. Few pleas- do too much, the chef here indeed As with other restau-
ures are more enjoyable than savoring seems to have mastered many culinary rants, the Hassler’s
every bite of Derflingher’s creations traditions of the world. The entrees menu changes with the seasons, but
while watching the sun set over the include such diverse offerings as some of the perennial favorites include
Eternal City. Chicken Tikka, Weiner Schnitzel, Lamb artichoke salad, pate, baby octupus
“Rome is a city of shadows…But the greatest
dreamITALY103 1/15/03 3:20 PM Page 7
Dining
and pumpkin ravioli. Hassler’s in- ads, cakes, elaborate desserts and
house bakery produces fine breads and fresh fruit. Jacket and tie required.
elaborate desserts. Liz Taylor is said to
be a fan of the milk chocolate turtles. Prices:Ameal runs about 100 euros
per person, without drinks. Brunch is a
Sunday brunch on the Rooftop is a fixed price, 55 euros, without drinks. La Pergola
Roman institution. The selection Open for lunch (or brunch on Sunday)
includes fruit juices, salmon and cold and dinner daily. Reservations:(39) 06 La Pergola at the Cavalieri Hilton is
cuts, meats sliced to order, omelets, sal- 699-340 arguably the best restaurant in Rome
and it’s frequently lauded as one of the
Eat & Stay… best in all of Italy. Interesting then, that
it owes its success to a young German
chef, Heinz Beck.
The best thing about staying where you want to eat —
Everything at La Pergola is of the high-
preference for a hard-to-get reservation.
est standard. The dinnerware is
Benardau and the glasses are made by
HOTEL EDEN HASSLER VILLA MEDICI Reidel. The magnificent maitre d’,
Via Ludovisi 49, Piazza Trinita dei Monti 6, Umberto Giraudo, once worked for
00187 Rome 00187 Rome, Alain Ducasse in Paris. The serving
[phone] (in the U.S.) (39) 06 699-340 staff, dressed in black tie, move like a
(39) 06 478-121 www.hotelhasslerroma.com finely choreographed ballet. 7
www.hotel-eden.it
Prices: 625 euros per night
And the food… Michelin has awarded
Prices: Rooms start at for a deluxe double room.
La Pergola two stars. Does that tell you
550 euros per night.
The only privately owned five-star hotel anything? Here’s a sampling: tomato
This hotel is a favorite of young in Rome, the Hassler is one of the terrine with deep-fried anchovies; mar-
Hollywood, including Gwyneth Paltrow. most famous hotels in the world. inated mackerel with tomato; guinea
The décor exudes understated elegance. Everyone from Madonna to Prince fowl with black olives; fillet of sole
The hilltop location ensures stunning Ranier has stayed here. It doesn’t with fine herbs; pigeon breast with
views from almost every spacious get much better than this. wild strawberries.
guestroom.
True gourmands order the 5- or 7-
CAVALIERI HILTON
course tasting menu and savor every
HOTEL D’INGHILTERRA Via Cadlolo 101,
single bite. 1,300 wine labels, 12 coffees
Via Bocca di Leone 14, 00136 Rome
and 31 teas complement each course.
00187 Rome 800 445 8667 (from the U.S.)
(39) 06 69-981 (39) 06 35091
Since the Hilton is in the hills above
www.charminghotels.it/inghilterra/ www.cavalieri-hilton.it/
Rome, the setting and view is as stupen-
Prices: Rooms start at Prices: 390 euros per night for a dous as the food. This is a once-in-a-life-
250 euros per night. standard room during the summer. time experience, as the price indicates.
The Inghilterra is one of Rome’s hottest Set in 15 acres of hills above Rome, the
Prices:7-course tasting menu is 130 euros
hotels right now. The rooms are filled Cavalieri is more resort than hotel. The
per person, and 5-course menu is 115
with antique furniture as well as amenities include a business center, clay
euros, excluding wine. Ala carte entrees
modern conveniences. For shopaholics, tennis courts, a swimming pool, fitness
start at 30 euros. Open for dinner
the location can’t be beat. center and jogging paths. There’s a free
Tuesday–Saturday. Closed for 2 weeks in
shuttle bus for the 15-minute ride to the
January and 2 weeks in August.
1 euro = $1.04 at press time center of Rome. Each room has a balcony. Reservations:(39) 06 350-92-211 ◆
shadow of all is its Past.” —A.G. MacKinnon
dreamITALY103 1/15/03 3:20 PM Page 8
Waking the Giant
M
y decision to make a pil- But all could be lost with one volcanic 9,300 feet elevation. (It is not safe to go
grimage to Mount Etna cough. Lava flows move slowly, allow- to Etna’s summit at 11,000 feet; as of
was rather last minute. ing time to pack up portable worldly December 2002, it is also forbidden.)
My parents and I were in possessions. Houses, schools and busi- The fog was thick and the air a chilly
Giardini Naxos, Sicily’s first Greek nesses cannot be moved, of course, and 33 degrees Fahrenheit. Visibility was so
colony and the last stop on our week- neither can a sense of place. Mount poor that the jeep vanished from sight
long Italiatour, “Magnificent Sicily.” Etna does not often take human lives, just as I made my way up an incline.
Our guide was taking names — we however. The Web site boris.vulcanoet- Freezing rain had started to fall during
could spend the final day of the tour na. comstates that 77 deaths can be our 4-wheel trek. I pulled my rented
completely at our leisure, or take an attributed to her eruptions. parka tightly around me, grateful for
optional excursion to Mount Etna, its warmth and fluorescence.
Europe’s highest and most active vol- The volcano’s mercurial nature earned
cano. The prospect of an unscheduled its reputation among Sicilians as a Patches of yellow lichen (moss-like
day was enticing. But when would I spoiled child, doing what it wants, plant) were the only signs of life on the
next find myself so near a volcano? As when it wants. Etna is monitored by ashen landscape. Large lava chunks
it happened, I would be one of the last 120 seismic activity stations and is poked through the mist. I joined a
souls to tread on Etna’s backside before under constant satellite surveillance, group of passengers walking around
she awoke again. The volcano would and the National Institute of an observatory which was closed to
erupt just two weeks later, depositing Geophysics and Volcanology, based in visitors. After some awkward photo
ash as far as Libya, 400 miles to its Cataniain eastern Sicily, studies the shoots, we boarded the jeep to view
south. behavior patterns of Mount Etna and one of Etna’s craters (not one of the
8 other volcanoes. While seismic data four live craters at the summit). It
Getting to the north face of Etna (Etna and statistical calculations offer clues, it looked like a bowl of dry ice. The fog
nord) was relatively easy. From is impossible to accurately forecast had put a damper on things. Our driv-
Giardini Naxos,we (three Australians Etna’s next move. In the past 350 years, er attempted to make one more stop,
and I) took a bus to Taormina, a popu- Etna has erupted about 70 times, but the crowd was audibly disappoint-
lar Mediterranean resort town, where approximately once every five years. ed and frustrated by the anti-climactic
we picked up additional passengers. The entire city of Catania was tour. The driver called it a day and
The bus full of Germans, British, destroyed in 1669 in a blast that lasted headed down “the mountain,” as
Americans and Australians climbed 122 days. There was a major explosion locals, called Etnei,refer to the volcano.
tree-lined switchbacks as our polyglot in 1992, in the summer of 2001 and On the ride back, he gestured to two
guide provided facts and history about most recently at the end of October jeep drivers ascending the volcano to
Mount Etna. 2002. (The last eruption continues as of turn around.
this writing.)
We stopped in the ski town of I returned my parka, looked at lava
Linguaglossa(translation: “big tongue We disembarked in Piano Provenzana,a souvenirs and enjoyed a cup of the
of lava”), halfway into the hour’s drive tiny, souvenir-laden skiing outpost most amazing hot chocolate I have
to where we would ascend the vol- where jeeps were gathered to take curi- ever tasted at La Provenzanarestaurant.
cano. Our guide pointed out the ous tourists up the volcano. Waiting I sat discussing the adventure with my
streets, the town’s gates and founda- for the next jeep departure, a shop Australian friend. We didn’t get to
tions of buildings and houses made of owner explained that the temperature view breathtaking vistas or awe-inspir-
basalt (lava) in this typical volcano-side would drop with each foot of eleva- ing craters, but we both agreed the
town. There is a true love-hate relation- tion. I rented a bright orange parka adventure was well worth the 67 euros
ship between the unpredictable Mount from him for the surprisingly reason- we paid. At least we could say we had
Etna and those who inhabit her slopes. able price of 2 euros. walked on a volcano. Two weeks later,
The lava makes for rich soil, perfect for we would realize we were two of the
growing hazelnuts, grapes, olives, After a wild 20-minute ride over undu- last tourists to sit in the quaint town
oranges and lemons. Skiing and lating terrain, the jeep let us out at the musing about our volcano outing.
tourism generate substantial revenue. highest point we could legally go— Piano Provenzanawas decimated by an
“Sicilians build as if they’ll live foreve
dreamITALY103 1/15/03 3:20 PM Page 9
Visiting the Volcano
Since Etna is still active and and glasses to protect your eyes from
unpredictable, contact the Italian the glare and flying debris.
Embassy (phone: [phone],
NEARBY TOWNS:
www.italyemb.org) or Italian
Government Tourist Board (phone: TAORMINA—Popular seaside resort
NY- [phone], Chicago- (312) Giarre-Riposto to Catania. Stops at with beaches, medieval streets and
644-0996 or Los Angeles- (310) 820- towns along the way. The entire myriad curio-filled shops (Hint: All
1898, www.italiantourism.com) for trip takes five hours. Contact of the stores sell the same items;
the latest information. the Italian State Railways, spend time at the beach or people
Ferrovie dello Stato (FS), watch in the piazzas instead.)
There are two approaches to Mount
for information phone:
Etna: GIARDININAXOS—Less expensive
(39) 147-888088 or www.fs-on-line.com
than Taormina with better and less-
NORTH FACE:Via Taormina to
BUS:Several bus tour options are crowded beaches. Buses run to
Linguaglossa—ascend by jeep.
available. The Sicilian Airbus Taormina every half—hour.
SOUTH FACE:Via Catania to Travel Group (SAT) offers a good
CATANIA—Sicily’s second largest city
Nicolosi to Rifugio Sapienza— variety. For information, visit
after Palermo, built entirely of lava.
ascend by cable-car. www.sat-group.it
Walk down Via Etnea, visit the open-
AROUND THE BASE:See Etna from ON FOOT:It is highly recommended air market and see the Elephant
all sides on the Circumetnearailway, to go on a guided excursion. Bring Fountain, the symbol of the city.
which runs along the base from warm clothing, good shoes or boots Offers many lodging options.
earthquake and swallowed by a river saint—Sant’Egidio— to stem the lava newspaper La Siciliareported that 9
of lava on October 27, 2002. All of the flow that loomed just five miles away. losses from the eruption total over 831
souvenir shops and ski huts were lev- The lava stopped due to cooling million euros, thus far. The Italian gov-
eled. La Provenzana restaurant,the only magma, though Linguaglossa towns- ernment postponed until the spring
structure left standing, later collapsed people would argue otherwise. It is taxes due at the end of 2002 as a way
in a blazing fire. believed that the patron saint also res- to offer some economic relief to the
cued the town in 1923. affected areas.
The late October blast was preceded by
more than 100 earthquakes measuring The eruption and its secondary effects Back in the States, I read stories about
3.5 to 3.6 on the Richter Scale. The continue today, in early 2003. Lava Etna’s erratic behavior, and cringed at
intense seismic activity caused fissures emissions have slowed for the time the devastation she had wrought. I
and vents to open on Etna’s southern being, but showers of ash persist, often could not believe I had just walked on
flank. Lava flows destroyed tourist causing planes to be re-routed to land now covered by a blanket of lava,
complexes, power lines and parts of ski Palermo and strangling tourist traffic driven through forests now charred
resorts in the towns of Rifugio Sapienza into Catania. Foul-smelling sulfur still and enjoyed hot chocolate in a town
and Nicolosi on Etna’s southern slope. lingers in the region. The eruptions now erased. I thought about the rever-
Ash rained down on Catania, causing resulted in dozens of injuries and ential relationship between the Etnei
the airport to close and auto and explosions, many caused by the heat of and the volcano. While I only spent
motorcycle traffic to cease; the layer of the lava and its contact with power one afternoon in the presence of this
ash created slick road conditions. The lines. powerful lady, I felt I understood in
heat of the lava caused forest fires to some small way the fleeting nature of
break out across the mountain. Water- Officials have begun to calculate the life in Etna’s shadow. ◆
carrying planes tried to dampen hot damage caused by Etna’s protracted
lava flows. Bulldozers and explosives episode. Farmers suffered financial —Karina M. Halvorsen
were used in an attempt to divert blows — an estimated loss of 140 mil-
Karina M. Halvorsen is a proud one-quarter Sicilian.
Etna’s far-reaching fury. The people of lion euros — and the tourism industry
Her mother’s maiden name, Randazzo, is also
Linguaglossamarched through the has been virtually shut down as a the name of a medieval town dangerously
streets with a statue of their patron result of the volcano’s wrath. The close to Mount Etna’s summit.
er, yet live each day as if it’s their last.”
dreamITALY103 1/15/03 3:20 PM Page 10
News, Tips, Deals
S
O R ’ Too Much Tuscan SunEDI
T T
E D IP I C K PICKOR’S
The day I received Dario Dario Castagno tells the other proper use of a bidet. Then replies, i.e. a painting erary agent in New York City,
Castagno’s book in the mail side of Frances Mayes’ there’s one Mr. Franklin, labeled, “Circa he hasn’t had too
had been a long one. I was famous tale, Under the whose jogging suit matches 1645.” much luck. I can’t
getting sick and wanted to Tuscan Sun.What’s it really that of his wife, who says, believe an
get some work done before like to witness an American “Dario, I’m sorry but in Italy Although he shares American publish-
going to bed early…but I invasion of Tuscany each you just don’t know how to his most outrageous er hasn’t snapped
couldn’t. I thought I would summer? According to Dario, cook Italian food. You get the adventures with this book up.
take a quick peak at Too sometimes it isn’t too pretty. best genuine Italian food in American tourists, Watch out Frances
Much Tuscan Sun: All I can say about Dario’s America, so if you don’t Dario balances out the book Mayes!
Confessions of a Chianti encounters with Americans mind, we’d prefer to eat over by detailing some of his most
If you are interested in get-
Tour Guideand leave it for is “God bless him.” He seems there.” The Franklins then enjoyable experiences with
ting a copy of Too Much
another day. That was the to have the patience of a take Dario to McDonald’s. American clients turned
Tuscan Sun,e-mail Dario at
plan at least. I stayed up until saint. And of course, who can for- friends. He also gives a vivid
[email protected] with your
nearly 2 a.m. voraciously get the woman who tells picture of the sights, sounds,
Some of his close encoun- mailing address. You can
reading and laughing myself Dario that she can’t believe history and culture that make
10 ters: There’s the 25-year-old also send him a fax at (39)
into tears. The dog looked at all of the sculptures and Chianti so unique.
trophy bride who treats her 0577 322-534. He will send
me like I was nuts, but I was paintings in Italy were creat-
40-something stepson like a Dario has sold 3,000 copies the book via priority mail
having too much fun to stop ed by one family. Perplexed,
4-year-old and asks Dario to of his book through word of along with a bill for $18 per
reading. Dario asks her what family is
physically demonstrate the mouth. Although he has a lit- copy.
that? “The Circa family,” she
1 euro = $1.04 at press time
ARTS Calendar
From the Flight Deck
Napoleone e la Repubblica Italiana 1802-1805
MILAN:
On May 1, American will launch new international ticket is issued; other
daily seasonal service between New flight coupons may be booked any This exhibit of paintings, drawings and sculptures documents the
York’s Kennedy Airport and Rome. time. You must buy a minimum of 2 creation of the first Italian Republic in 1802 by Napoleon, focusing on the
The flights, using 767 aircraft, end flight coupons ($43 each). historical, social and cultural transformation of Northern Italy. Now
October 24. You can get 3 flight through February 28, 2003. Tickets: 6.50 euros. Rotonda della Besana,
coupons for less than Via Besana. Closed Monday. For more information: (39) 02 54-55-047.
Flying to multiple cities $39 each and 4 or more
in Italy? Getting to the for less than $35 each. ROME:Lucia di Lammermoor
Continent on United, The coupons must be
Rome’s Teatro dell’Opera presents Gaetano Donizetti’s opera Lucia di
Lufthansa, Austrian purchased prior to
Lammermoor,a tale of tempestuous love and family honor, based on
Airlines or S.A.S? departure, as they are not
Sir Walter Scott’s classic novel, The Bride of Lammermoor.Lucia is
Consider buying a Visit Italy available in Italy, and can only
one of opera’s most memorable heroines, whose love for her family’s
Pass from Air One, which flies to 20 be issued in conjunction with a Star
Italian cities. Simply buy one coupon Alliance Partner (United, Lufthansa, sworn enemy drives her to madness. Performances will be held
for each one-way flight you plan to Austrian Airlines or S.A.S) interna- February 21, 22, 23, 25 and 27 and March 1, 2 and 4, 2003. Ticket prices
take. Only the first flight coupon must tional ticket to Italy. For more infor- range from 8 to 119 euros. Teatro dell’Opera, Piazza Beniamino Gigli 1.
be reserved at the same time as your mation: www.flyairone.it/en For more information: (39) 06 481-60; www.operaroma.it
After 56 years in exile, the Italian royal family (the Savoys) ret