Backpacking Wyoming: from towering granite peaks to steaming geyser basins

289 Pages·2010·11.509 MB·English

by  Lorain, Douglas

TRAVEL/CALIFORNIA/OUTDOOR RECREATION TRAVEL / WYOMING / OUTDOOR RECREATION B
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“[Lorain’s] backpacking books . . . K
offer wonderfully comprehensive P
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and insightful accounts of his
judiciously selected trails.” C
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—Terry Wood,
Seattle Times I
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Yellowstone National Park • Beartooth Mountains • South Absaroka Range
BACKPACKING
Grand Teton National Park and Vicinity • Wind River Range • Wyoming and Salt River Ranges
Bighorn Mountains • Bear Lodge Mountains • Southern Wyoming Mountains Y
WYOMING
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Backpacking Wyoming details the premier backpacking opportunities in
the Cowboy State. Doug Lorain describes 28 trips (plus 9 bonus ones) with
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carefully crafted, field-tested itineraries, which range from two days to From Towering Granite Peaks to Steaming Geyser Basins
two weeks. Wander a geyser basin and wildflower-filled meadows. Explore the
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largest glaciers in the American Rockies and admire the awesome peaks around
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Cirque of the Towers. Experience countless beautiful high-elevation lakes and
abundant wildlife, including elk, pronghorns, bears, moose, and even wolves.
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You could spend several lifetimes here and barely scratch the surface of
Wyoming’s wide open spaces. No matter which trip you pick, you’ll find
unforgettable adventure in some of America’s most spectacular backcountry.
For each trip—
• Scenery, solitude, and difficulty are
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comparatively rated.
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• Trail mileage, elevation gain, and days D
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on the trail are specified. U.S. $18.95 r
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• Highlights, required permits, complete ISBN 978-0-89997-505-4 E
51895 s
trip itineraries, and unique challenges s

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are noted.
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9 780899 975054 s DOuGlas lOraIN
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WIlDErNEss PrEss . . . on the trail since 1967 WIlDErNEss PrEss

BACKPACKING
WYOMING
From Towering Granite Peaks
to Steaming Geyser Basins
DOUGLAS LORAIN
WILDERNESS PRESS . . . on the trail since 1967
BERKELEY, CA
Backpacking Wyoming:
From Towering Granite Peaks to Steaming Geyser Basins
1st EDITION 2010
Copyright © 2010 by Douglas Lorain
Front and back cover photos copyright © 2010 by Douglas Lorain, except photo of
paintbrush, which is copyright © 2010 by Christine Ebrahimi
Interior photos, except where noted, by Douglas Lorain
Maps: Douglas Lorain
Cover and book design/layout: Larry B. Van Dyke
Book editor: Laura Shauger
ISBN 978-0-89997-505-4
Manufactured in the United States of America
Published by: Wilderness Press
1345 8th Street
Berkeley, CA 94710
[phone]; FAX [phone]
[email protected]
www.wildernesspress.com
Visit our website for a complete listing of our books and for ordering information.
Distributed by Publishers Group West
Cover photos:
(front, top) Meadow above North Piney Lake, Wyoming Range (Trip 22)
(bottom, from left) Upper Paintbrush Canyon, Grand Teton National Park (Trip 12);
Shoshone Geyser Basin, Yellowstone National Park (Trip 4);
Rock Lake Peak, Salt River Range (Trip 23)
(back) Grand and Middle Teton from below Avalanche Divide,
Grand Teton National Park (Trip 12)
Previous page: Warrior 1 and 2 and Warbonnet Peak over Lonesome Lake,
Wind River Range (Trip 17)
All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced in any form, or by any means
electronic, mechanical, recording, or otherwise, without written permission from the pub-
lisher, except for brief quotations used in reviews.
SAFETY NOTICE: Although Wilderness Press and the author have made every attempt to
ensure that the information in this book is accurate at press time, they are not responsible
for any loss, damage, injury, or inconvenience that may occur to anyone while using this
book. You are responsible for your own safety and health while in the wilderness. The fact
that a trail is described in this book does not mean that it will be safe for you. Be aware that
trail conditions can change from day to day. Always check local conditions, know your own
limitations, and consult a map.
“ I have a hunger for nonhuman spaces, not out of
any distaste for humanity, but out of a need to
experience my humanness the more vividly by
confronting stretches of the earth that my kind
has had no part in making.”
— Scott Russell Sanders,
The Paradise of Bombs
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Bull elk, Yellowstone National Park
ACKNOWLEDGMENTS
The help of many people made this book possible. Special thanks go to the
following persons:
My occasional hiking partner—Dave Elsbernd.
Forest Service and Park Service personnel, who provided information, read
drafts, or otherwise shared their considerable expertise—Craig Cope, Rob St.
John, Sid Smith, Matt Walter, Paul Willard, and James Williams.
The people at Wilderness Press who continue to enthusiastically publish my
books and do such a stellar job of turning my initial disjointed writing and map-
ping efforts into something useable and readable for you, the reader. On this book,
particular thanks go to Roslyn Bullas, Laura Shauger, and Larry Van Dyke.
I also want to thank the nice people at Hot Springs County Memorial Hospi-
tal in Thermopolis, Wyoming, who helped me through a nasty bout of giardia I
picked up in the Wyoming backcountry.
Most of all, forever and always, I thank my wife, Becky Lovejoy, who en-
dured months alone having to take care of the dog and house while her husband
traipsed off into the wilds in search of new trails. Her love and encouragement
are invaluable to this book and to my life.
While the contributions and assistance of the persons listed above were in-
valuable, all of the text, maps, and photos herein are my own work and sole
responsibility. Any and all omissions, errors, and just plain stupid mistakes are
strictly mine.
vii
Featured Trips and Other Options
(cid:27) (cid:28) (cid:29)(cid:15)(cid:7)(cid:32)(cid:33) 310 Big Sheridan
Yel(cid:30)loNwatsitoonn(cid:31)aPela(cid:14)rk(cid:6) (cid:15)14(cid:1) 16 20 Cody 14hornMou(cid:14)(cid:14)(cid:3)(cid:4)(cid:15)(cid:5) (cid:14)(cid:43)
(cid:13)(cid:7) ntain 90 Gillette
(cid:13)(cid:1) (cid:15)(cid:25) s
(cid:15)(cid:2) 16 16
(cid:34)
(cid:13)(cid:25) (cid:15)(cid:3)287 (cid:35)
26
Jackson
(cid:13)(cid:2)
(cid:13)(cid:3) W(cid:13)in(cid:4)d(cid:13)(cid:8)
(cid:14)(cid:1) (cid:13)(cid:43) 20 26
(cid:14)(cid:2) (cid:15)(cid:13)R(cid:4)iv(cid:5)er(cid:13)(cid:6) Riverton Casper 85
(cid:14)(cid:25) (cid:14)(cid:7) 25
89(cid:15)(cid:43) Range 287
189 26
30
80
Rock Springs
(cid:14)(cid:8) Laramie
(cid:14)(cid:5)
Cheyenne
CONTENTS
Summary of Featured Trips xii
Preface xiv
Introduction 1
How to Use This Guide 2
General Tips on Backpacking in Wyoming 5
FEATURED TRIPS
YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • •15
1 Bighorn Pass & Sportsman Lake Loop 17
2 Black Canyon of the Yellowstone River 24
3 Lamar River to Hoodoo Basin 31
4 Shoshone Lake Loop 39
5 Heart Lake & Two Ocean Plateau Loop 45
BEARTOOTh MOUNTAINS • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • •55
6 Beartooth Plateau Loop 57
7 Clarks Fork Yellowstone River Canyon 63