Appropriate Ing Dress: Women's Rhetorical Style in Nineteenth-Century America (Studies in Rhetorics and Feminisms)

201 Pages·2002·6.2 MB·English

by  Carol Mattingly

Studies in Rhetorics and Feminisms
Series Editors, Cheryl Glenn and Shirley Wilson Logan

Appropriate[ing] Dress

Appropriate[ing]
Dress: Women’s
Rhetorical Style in
Nineteenth-Century
America
Carol Mattingly
Southern Illinois University Press
Carbondale and Edwardsville
Copyright ©  by the Board of Trustees,
Southern Illinois University
All rights reserved
Printed in the United States of America
       
Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data
Mattingly, Carol, –
Appropriate[ing] dress : women’s rhetorical style in nineteenth
century America / Carol Mattingly.
p. cm. — (Studies in rhetorics and feminisms)
Includes bibliographical references and index.
. Speeches, addresses, etc., American—Women authors—History
and criticism. . Rhetoric—Social aspects—United States—
History—th century. . Clothing and dress—United States—
History—th century. . Feminism--United States—History—th
century. . Women orators—United States. I. Title: Appropriating
dress. II. Title. III. Series.
PS .M 
.''—dc
ISBN --- (alk. paper) 
The paper used in this publication meets the minimum requirements of American National
Standard for Information Sciences—Permanence of Paper for Printed Library Materials,
ANSI Z.-. ∞
For Amy

Contents
List of Figures xi
Preface xiii
Acknowledgments xvii
Introduction: Fabricated Gender 1
. Friendly Dress: A Disciplined Use 17
.Blooming Celebrity: The Flowering of a National Ethos 37
. Restraining Women’s Rhetoric: Backlash Against the Reform Dress 62
.The Language of Passing and Desire: The Rhetoric of Cross-Dressing 85
. [Re]Fashioning a Proper Image by Dressing the Part 107
Conclusion: Dress and Body as Spectacle 135
Notes 147
Works Cited 157
Index 169