Antique Crochet Patterns

251 Pages·2015·13.48 MB·English

by  Joan Silverston

AAnnttiiqquuee CCrroocchheett PPaatttteerrnnss:: 11884400--11990000
Analysis, Examples, Interpretation
by Joan Frati Silverston
AAnnttiiqquuee CCrroocchheett PPaatttteerrnnss
This work is protected by copyright. Except for personal use, it may not be reproduced or copied in any form or way either entirely or
in part without the express written permission of the publishers. This also covers the translation of any or all material into other
languages as well as its use in electronic retrieval systems. All rights reserved.
Joan Frati Silverston
2015
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Table of Contents
Introduction.............................................................................................................................................................................8
Vocabulary:..............................................................................................................................................................................8
References: (incomplete).......................................................................................................................................................9
Treasuries:...............................................................................................................................................................................9
Sources:...................................................................................................................................................................................9
Contacts:................................................................................................................................................................................11
Jane Gaugain.........................................................................................................................................................................12
Lady's Assistant for Executing Useful and Fancy Designs in Knitting, Netting, and Crotchet Work...............................12
CXXIV. LONG PURSE OF OPEN STITCH OF SINGLE TAMBOUR.......................................................................13
CXXV.-PLAIN FRENCH TAMBOUR LONG PURSE..............................................................................................14
CXXVI.-FRENCH TAMBOUR LONG PURSE........................................................................................................14
CXXVII.-OPEN TAMBOUR PURSE......................................................................................................................15
CXXVIII.-OPEN TAMBOUR STITCH FOR PURSE................................................................................................16
CXXX._OPEN TAMBOUR STITCH FOR PURSE..................................................................................................17
CXXXI.-DOUBLE TAMBOUR SPIRAL CHAIN......................................................................................................17
CXXXIV.- ROUND PURSE OF DOUBLE TAMBOUR............................................................................................18
Volume II,...............................................................................................................................................................................19
CXIX-CROCHET TURKISH PATTERN.................................................................................................................20
CXXXI._CROCHET LONG PURSE.......................................................................................................................21
Gaugain's Contemporaries...................................................................................................................................................22
Miss Watts.............................................................................................................................................................................22
Selections of Knitting, Netting, & Crochet Work............................................................................................................22
Muffattee......................................................................................................................................................22
Plain Double Crochet Stitch Purse..............................................................................................................23
Open Crochet Purse.....................................................................................................................................23
Mrs Henry Owen....................................................................................................................................................................23
No. I. Handsome Pattern for a Table Cover................................................................................................27
A Crochet Silk Bag with Star-Shaped Bottom............................................................................................27
A Plain Open crochet purse.........................................................................................................................27
The Author of The Ladies Work-Table..................................................................................................................................28
The Ladies' Work-Table Book..........................................................................................................................................28
The Ladies' Hand-Book of Knitting, Netting, and Crochet, Second Series..................................................................28
Vandyke Edge...............................................................................................................................................29
Miss Lambert........................................................................................................................................................................29
My Crochet Sampler with Numerous Illustrations.........................................................................................................29
Patterns in Open Crochet............................................................................................................................................31
Vandyke........................................................................................................................................................33
A Sofa Pillow, or Table, Cover......................................................................................................................33
A Round Bag with star Bottom, and Springs in Silk and Gold...................................................................34
An Essuie-Plume..........................................................................................................................................34
A Round D'Oyley or Mat...............................................................................................................................35
Spiral Crochet Purse....................................................................................................................................36
A Plain and Open Crochet Purse.................................................................................................................37
Jane Gaugain - 2...................................................................................................................................................................38
The Accompaniment to the Second Volume of Mrs Gaugain's Work...........................................................................38
Chinee Crochet Purse..................................................................................................................................38
Elizabeth Jackson..................................................................................................................................................................38
The Practical Companion to the Work-Table..................................................................................................................38
Open Crochet Purse.....................................................................................................................................39
Double Crochet Chain..................................................................................................................................39
Cornelia Mee.........................................................................................................................................................................40
Mee's Companion to the Work-Table.............................................................................................................................40
Pretty Flower Mat, in Crochet...........................................................................................................................42
For a Muff, in Double Crochet..........................................................................................................................44
For a Bag, in Plain and Double Open Crochet.................................................................................................45
Crochet for Book-Covers, &ce..........................................................................................................................46
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Pretty Pattern for a Penwiper, in Double Crochet...........................................................................................47
Pretty Strong Trimming for Petticoats,...In Crochet........................................................................................49
Crochet Explained and Illustrated...................................................................................................................................51
34. Beautiful Pattern for a Bag........................................................................................................................51
50. Crests and Coats of Arms, in Crochet.......................................................................................................52
51. For Twelve Different Round Doilies, in Close and Open Crochet............................................................53
Eighth Doily........................................................................................................................................................56
54. Open Crochet Varied..................................................................................................................................58
Crochet Explained and Illustrated, Second Series........................................................................................................59
Crochet Doilies and Edgings,...........................................................................................................................................59
First Doily...........................................................................................................................................................60
Vandyke Edging.................................................................................................................................................63
Vandyke Edging.................................................................................................................................................64
Crochet Collars,................................................................................................................................................................65
The Work-Table Magazine,..............................................................................................................................................65
Mlle Riego..............................................................................................................................................................................66
Terms used in Crochet ...............................................................................................................................................66
Six Crochet D’Oyleys, Round............................................................................................................................66
DIAMOND PATTERN..........................................................................................................................................67
DAMIER PATTERN.............................................................................................................................................70
Open Vandyke Edging.......................................................................................................................................73
Close Vandyke Edging.......................................................................................................................................73
Bag In Treble Open Crochet..............................................................................................................................75
The Crochet Book.............................................................................................................................................................75
T0 MAKE A CHAIN...................................................................................................................................75
PLAIN STITCH, CALLED FRENCH OR DOUBLE CROCHET.....................................................................75
TREBLE STITCH.......................................................................................................................................75
MISS A STITCH........................................................................................................................................75
TO WORK IN THE CHAIN.........................................................................................................................75
ECAILLE PATTERN EDGING..............................................................................................................................76
INSERTION-A-LA-GREGQUE..............................................................................................................................76
The Second Series...........................................................................................................................................................77
Single Crochet, or Shepherd's Knitting................................................................................................................77
COLLAR-LA REINE DES FLEURS.......................................................................................................................79
SECOND PATTERN............................................................................................................................................80
CROCHET SPRIG................................................................................................................................................82
The Third Series, The Crochet Applique Flower Book....................................................................................................83
HEART'S-EASE...................................................................................................................................................84
SPRAY OF ROSE BUD AND LEAVES..................................................................................................................87
ROSE, SHAMROCK, AND THISTLE...................................................................................................................90
CARNATION........................................................................................................................................................93
The Fourth Series.............................................................................................................................................................96
Le Bouquet De Fleurs.......................................................................................................................................96
Collar, La Rose...................................................................................................................................................98
The Fifth Series..............................................................................................................................................................100
HONITON SPRIG..............................................................................................................................................100
The Seventh Series........................................................................................................................................................100
The Eighth Series, The Crochet Summer Book............................................................................................................101
Serpent-Bracelet.............................................................................................................................................102
The Ninth Series, Third Winter Book.............................................................................................................................103
The Tenth Series, D'Oyleys and Anti-Maccasars,........................................................................................................103
NEW TERMS...............................................................................................................................................103
ANTI-MACASSAR; OAK LEAF-PATTERN.........................................................................................................104
D’OYLEY--No. 3................................................................................................................................................106
The Eleventh Series,......................................................................................................................................................109
Rose Point Collar.............................................................................................................................................109
The Twelfth Series,.........................................................................................................................................................111
Eighteenth Series...........................................................................................................................................................111
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CLUNY LACE INSERTION................................................................................................................................112
The Medallions...........................................................................................................................................112
The Diamonds............................................................................................................................................112
The Lattice Insertion..................................................................................................................................112
La Mode Winter Book....................................................................................................................................................115
Diamond Pattern Couvre-Pied SOFA PILLOW &c..........................................................................................115
Abergeldie Winter Book of 1867,..................................................................................................................................116
Mlle Riego's Early Contemporaries.....................................................................................................................................117
Marie Jane Cooper..............................................................................................................................................................117
The New Guide to Knitting and Crochet.......................................................................................................................117
Directions for the Different Stitches....................................................................................................117
in...........................................................................................................................................................117
CLOSE AND OPEN CROCHET WORK....................................................................................................117
Original Pattern of a Crochet Collar...............................................................................................................118
A Plain Purse...................................................................................................................................................120
Mrs Warren (Eliza)..............................................................................................................................................................120
The Court Doyley Book, with Original Patterns, Ornamentally Illustrated..................................................................120
Doyley, No. 1....................................................................................................................................................121
The Irish Point, Crochet Collar Book, First Series........................................................................................................124
COLLAR OF ANTIQUE POINT...........................................................................................................................126
Mrs Savage.........................................................................................................................................................................130
The Winchester Fancy Needlework Instructor and Manual of the Fashionable and Elegant Accomplishment of
Knitting and Crochet......................................................................................................................................................130
A very pretty Bag.............................................................................................................................................130
A very pretty Evening Bag...............................................................................................................................131
Miss Ronaldson..................................................................................................................................................................132
Lady's Book of Useful and Ornamental Crochet Work,...............................................................................................132
XXV.-VERY PRETTY D'OYLEY, FOR SALVER...................................................................................................133
XXVII.-PATTERNS FOR ONE DOZEN WINE RUBBERS...................................................................................138
XXVIII.-SECOND WINE RUBBER.....................................................................................................................142
XXXII.-SIXTH RUBBER....................................................................................................................................145
LXXIX. ANTI MACASSAR..................................................................................................................................147
XCV.-VANDYKE TRIMMING.............................................................................................................................149
Post 1850: British...............................................................................................................................................................150
Godey's Lady's Book...........................................................................................................................................................150
Point Niege or Shell Stitch...................................................................................................................150
The Lady's Album of Fancy Work, 1850............................................................................................................................150
Toilet Cushion. (Crochet)................................................................................................................................152
Mitten...............................................................................................................................................................157
A Winter Gift for Ladies...Revised and Enlarged by an American Lady...........................................................................157
W. Carter; Royal Crochet Worker, 1860...........................................................................................................................157
Pattern No. 7.-For a Collar..............................................................................................................................158
Pattern No. 12 For D'Oyley.............................................................................................................................161
Madame Goubaud..............................................................................................................................................................165
Crochet Book..................................................................................................................................................................165
Couvrette in Crochet.......................................................................................................................................165
Crochet Insertion............................................................................................................................................168
CROCHET D’OYLEYS IN IMITATION OF POINT LACE................................................................................................170
D’Oyley No. 1:..................................................................................................................................................170
D’Oyley No. 3...................................................................................................................................................171
Mrs Beeton..........................................................................................................................................................................173
Beeton's Book of Needlework,.....................................................................................................................................173
Hollow Spots.........................................................................................................................................173
Elvina Mary Corbould..........................................................................................................................................................174
The Lady's Crochet-Book..............................................................................................................................................174
Rose Antimacassar: Round Shape................................................................................................................175
The Lady's Crochet-Book, Third Series........................................................................................................................178
Mosaic Pattern................................................................................................................................................178
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Penwiper..........................................................................................................................................................180
Lace.................................................................................................................................................................180
Rosette............................................................................................................................................................182
Mrs Leach...........................................................................................................................................................................184
Fancy Work Basket........................................................................................................................................................184
BALL-HOLDER.................................................................................................................................................186
CASE FOR CROCHET NEEDLE........................................................................................................................186
ANTIMACASSAR OR COUVRE-PIED...............................................................................................................187
PINEAPPLE SCALLOP TRIMMING..................................................................................................................188
Weldon's Practical Crochet................................................................................................................................................188
Tufted Pattern..................................................................................................................................................190
Patchwork Crochet..........................................................................................................................................191
Twisted Rings..................................................................................................................................................192
Toy Elephant....................................................................................................................................................195
New Patterns in Old Style...................................................................................................................................................196
Post 1850: American..........................................................................................................................................................197
Manual of Fancy-Work, 1859 (Mrs Pullan).......................................................................................................................197
DIAMOND OPEN-HEM...............................................................................................................................199
SPRIG 1...........................................................................................................................................................200
Marie Louise Kerzman.......................................................................................................................................................201
How to Crochet...............................................................................................................................................................201
Miscellaneous Designs for Crochet Work....................................................................................................................201
No. V. ROSETTE...............................................................................................................................................202
No. VI.-ROSETTE..............................................................................................................................................204
Eva Marie Niles...................................................................................................................................................................207
Fancy Work Recreations, A Complete Guide to Knitting, Crochet, and Home Adornment.......................................207
DEEP CROCHET LACE.....................................................................................................................................207
CROCHET DESIGN FOR PURSE......................................................................................................................209
Various Thread Manufacturers..........................................................................................................................................211
The Belding Self Instructor............................................................................................................................................211
Crazy Stitch...........................................................................................................................................211
BABY’S SACQUE..............................................................................................................................................212
Rules and Directions for the use of Real Scotch Linen Crochet Thread....................................................................213
Crocheted Tidy................................................................................................................................................214
Crocheted Wheel for Tidy No. 1 ....................................................................................................................215
Crocheted Stripe for Tidy................................................................................................................................215
The Lady's Book on Crochet Work.....................................................................................................................................216
No. 21..............................................................................................................................................................216
PINEAPPLE LACE.............................................................................................................................................217
PINEAPPLE INSERTION..................................................................................................................................218
CHILDREN’S CORCHETED REINS..................................................................................................................220
The American Domestic Cyclopedia, 1890......................................................................................................................220
Single Spider Web Lace, with Edge...............................................................................................................221
PINEAPPLE INSERTION..................................................................................................................................223
STRAWBERRY LACE IN CROCHET..................................................................................................................225
INSERTION FOR STRAWBERRY LACE............................................................................................................226
Home Work.........................................................................................................................................................................226
Crazy Stitch...........................................................................................................................................226
Scotch Thistle Pattern....................................................................................................................................227
Nets for Horses' Ears.....................................................................................................................................227
Pop Corn Tidy...................................................................................................................................................228
Barbour Prize Needlework Series, 1891..........................................................................................................................231
KNOT LACE......................................................................................................................................................233
PINEAPPLE OR STRAWBERRY LACE..............................................................................................................235
STAR LACE.......................................................................................................................................................238
The Art of Crocheting, 1891..............................................................................................................................................240
Hollow Puff Stitch. (Single Crochet).....................................................................................................240
Crazy Stitch...........................................................................................................................................240
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Pop-Corn Stitch.....................................................................................................................................240
Spider Edging..................................................................................................................................................241
Fancy and Practical Crochet Work, 1895.........................................................................................................................241
SQUARE FOR CROCHETED COUNTERPANE..................................................................................................242
TUFT-STITCH BORDER For COUNTERPANE..................................................................................................247
The Corner Rosette.........................................................................................................................................249
Crocheted Wheel for Wool Tidy......................................................................................................................250
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IInnttrroodduuccttiioonn
In 1824, Penelope, a Dutch magazine, published the first written crochet patterns. Crocheters have struggled with them ever since.
Previously, crocheters merely had to reproduce what had been demonstrated to them, or copy sample pieces crocheted in linen or
silk thread much finer than any sewing thread manufactured today. Samplers usually contained a limited repertoire of motifs, not
complete items. Personal demonstration and Samplers limited the distribution of croched design. Written patterns went beyond
this, describing complicated designs for articles from reticules to wastebasket covers. By the 1840’s, books of written patterns
were common, several patterns appearing verbatim in more than one publication. With written patterns, crocheters needed two
skills - literacy and knowledge of the language. These were not always enough to follow a pattern, since the writers had to
communicate their patterns clearly and correctly
The earliest pattern writers used their own vocabularies and writing style. These writers seemed unaware their novice readers had
no idea how to make stitches with thread and hook. Their pattern books often included exhortations to virtue.
A major innovation was putting a list of materials at the start of a pattern.
Slowly did authors discover the convenience of giving stitches distinct names, and not using the same term for two or three different
things. By actually naming stitches they did not have to give complete instructions for making the stitch each time it appeared.
This also allowed authors to put a list of stitches and their instructions at the beginning of the book, later on. Alas, different writers
used different names for the same stitch and the same name for different stitches. Stitch name abbreviations and compact
notation for repeats arrived, but each writer used her1 own version. Then, once basic stitch names became standardized, American
writers shifted them downward.
Only gradually did designers recognize just how flexible the elements of crochet are, recognizing exactly what the basic stitches are
and the design capabilities of increases and decreases. Designs evolved as well. Instead of just changing colors, varied stitch
combinations and textures began to make pieces interesting. The pineapple, spider, and pinwheel figures made their appearances,
and got named.
Not all of the writers were equally careful. Testing a pattern before publication was optional. Engravings, when used, were not
precise. Even so, many authors borrowed the patterns of others, errors included.
Several other persons have written about the history of crochet in some detail, but they only whetted my curiosity as to exactly when
and how the specific parts of crochet technique and pattern writing evolved. So I collected all the early crochet books I could find, in
antique shops, libraries, and on the internet, and set to to work. I puzzled through the patterns, which became more idiosyncratic
as I moved further back in time.
The problem of writing a pattern so any crocheter2 can understand it remains unsolved. Maybe it has no solution.
This publication contains my study of the development of crochet pattern writing, stitch types and names, and standard figures. I
have restricted my study to patterns written in English and published in books between 1840 and 1900. This is because my time is
finite, and crochet as we know it in the 21st century was well established by the start of the 20th century.
I tried to select patterns which illustrated the developing clarity of instructions and the recognition and naming of stitches as they
appeared. Patterns showing the early appearance of popular figures also get analysis. Then, I include a few that defy rather than
enlighten the crocheter. You will recognize these, easily. I have not always been reverent about them. Also note that my text
includes a lot of opinion.
Tricot, hairpin lace, and beadwork also developed at this time, but I have included little about any of them.
In order to see how a pattern directed the crocheter to make the resulting item, I crocheted several pieces, graphing them first to get
a feel for the work. After crocheting the piece, I frequently had to update the graph; sometimes the graph was incorrect, sometimes
the pattern was inaccurate. Sometimes the illustrated sample was wrong. (Sometimes the written pattern was impossible.) All the
illustrations are my own work, intended to show where the pattern was going. I used Cebelia, Opera, and Superba threads in sizes
20 and 30. The samples show how the stitches produce the design, rather than any great skill. The graphs were made in
SymblCro, Advanced version.
In discussing patterns, I tried to use American stitch names, regardless of the names used in the pattern. I have not always been
consistent, especially for the older patterns
VVooccaabbuullaarryy::
Reading all these antique patterns made it clear that the writer must define her terms if she wants her readers to understand. I try
1 They were all female,
2 Any crocheter who knows how to make the stitches, that is
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to use the following words with specific meanings:
design what the finished item should look like
pattern a set of instructions describing what stitches to make and where to make them in order to produce an expected design
figure a picture formed in the design; ex. pineapple, spider web
motif a complete piece joined to one or more other pieces to make a larger piece; ex. Irish rose, granny square
stitch a sequence of yarn overs and draw throughs of thread made with a hook, beginning and ending with a single loop on the
hook; ex. chain, double
compound stitch a group of stitches joined at the top or bottom, or both; ex. cluster, popcorn
cluster two or more stitches joined at the top
bobble a cluster with all of its stitches made into the same stitch
popcorn two or more stitches made each completely, then joined by pulling the last loop through the top of the first stitch
RReeffeerreenncceess:: ((iinnccoommpplleettee))
Annie Potter A Living Mystery: The International Art and History of Crochet
Lis Palaudan Crochet, History and Technique
Mary Konior Heritage Crochet: an Analysis
Barbara Ballentine Mlle Riego; Irish Crochet Lace

TTrreeaassuurriieess::
Antique Pattern Library www.antiquepatternlibrary.org
Lacis www.lacis.com
eBay
The Internet
Antiquarian Book Fairs
SSoouurrcceess::
Jane Gaugain Lady's Knitting, Netting & Crochet Book 1840
Jane Gaugain Lady's Knitting, Netting &Crochet Book, Second Volume 1842
Cornelia Mee Companion to the WorkTable 1844
Miss Lambert My Crochet Sampler 1844
Illuminated Ladies' Book of Useful and Ornamental
Mrs Henry Owen Needlework, 2nd Ed. 1844
Ladies' Hand Book of Knitting, Netting, and Crochet, Second
Series 1844
Ladies' Work-Table Book, 2nd Ed 1844
Cornelia Mee Crochet Explained and Illustrated 1845
Elizabeth Jackson Practical Companion to the Work Table 1845
Jane Gaugain Accompaniment to Second Volume of Mrs Gaugain's Work 1845
Cornelia Mee Crochet Collars 1846
Cornelia Mee Crochet Doilies and Edgings 1846
Cornelia Mee Crochet Explained and Illustrated, Second Series 1846
Mee and Austin Work-Table Magazine 1846
Marie Jane Cooper New Guide to Knitting and Crochet 1847
Mrs Savage Needlework Knitting & Crochet, 3rd Ed. 1847
Mrs Warren Court Crochet Doyley Book 1847
Riego De La BranchardiereCrochet Book, First Series 1847
Miss Ronaldson Lady's Book of Useful and Ornamental Crochet Work 1848
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Riego De La BranchardiereCrochet Book, Second Series 1848
Riego De La BranchardiereCrochet Book, Third Series 1848
Royal Magazine of Knitting, Netting, Crochet, and Fancy
Needlework 1848
Riego De La BranchardiereCrochet Book, Fourth Series 1849
Riego De La BranchardiereCrochet Book, Fifth Series 1849
Riego De La BranchardiereCrochet Book, Sixth Series 1849
Riego De La BranchardiereCrochet Book, Seventh Series 1849
Riego De La BranchardiereCrochet Summer Book, Eighth Series 1849
American Lady Winter Gift for Ladies 1850
Riego De La BranchardiereCrochet Book, Ninth Series 1850
Riego De La BranchardiereCrochet Book, Tenth Series 1851
Lady's Album of Fancy Work 1850
Riego De La BranchardiereCrochet Book, Eleventh Series 1851
Riego De La BranchardiereCrochet Book, Twelfth Series 1852
Mrs Warren Irish Point Crochet Collar Book, First Series 1854
Riego De La BranchardiereWinter Book 1857
Mrs Pullan Lady's Manual of Fancy-Work 1859
W Carter Royal Crochet Worker, #1 1860
W Carter Royal Crochet Worker, #2 1860
W Carter Royal Crochet Worker, #6 1860
Riego De La BranchardiereLa Mode Winter Book 1862
Riego De La BranchardiereCrochet Book, Eighteenth Series 1869
Madam Goubaud Crochet Book 1869
Mrs Beeton Beeton's Book of Needlework 1870
Elvina Mary Corbould Lady's Crochet- Book, Third Series 1877
Elvina Mary Corbould Lady's Crochet- Book 1879
Marie Louise Kerzman How to Crochet, Illustrated, Series 1 1883
Marie Louise Kerzman Miscellaneous Designs for Crochet Work 1883
Marie Louise Kerzman Twine Crochet Work 1883
Fancy Work Recreations, Complete Guide to Knitting,
Eva M Niles Crochet, and Home Adornment 1884
Weldon's Practical Crochet, First Series 1885
Weldon's Practical Crochet, Second Series 1885
Weldon's Practical Crochet, Third Series 1885
Weldon's Practical Crochet, FourthSeries 1885
Mrs Leach Fancy Work Basket 1886
Weldon's Practical Crochet, FifthSeries 1886
Rules and Designs for Silk Knitting 1886
Rules and Directions for....Real Scotch Linen Crochet Thread 1886
Weldon's Practical Crochet, Sixth Series 1886
Weldon's Practical Crochet, Seventh Series 1886
Weldon's Practical Crochet, Eighth Series 1886
Weldon's Practical Crochet, Ninth Series 1886
Weldon's Practical Crochet, Tenth Series 1886
Weldon's Practical Crochet, Eleventh Series 1887
Weldon's Practical Crochet, Twelfth Series 1887
Weldon's Practical Crochet, Thirteenth Series 1887
Weldon's Practical Crochet, Fourteenth Series 1887
A Lady's Book on Crochet Work 1888
Weldon's Practical Crochet, Fifteenth Series 1888
Weldon's Practical Crochet, Sixteenth Series 1888
Weldon's Practical Crochet, Seventeenth Series 1889
Weldon's Practical Crochet, Eighteenth Series 1889
Weldon's Practical Crochet, Ninteenth Series 1889
American Domestic Cyclopedia 1890
Weldon's Practical Crochet, Twentieth Series 1890
Weldon's Practical Crochet, TwentyFirst Series 1890
Weldon's Practical Crochet, TwentySecond Series 1890
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