Alcohol: A Social and Cultural History

257 Pages·2006·3.1 MB·English

by  Mack Holt

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Alcohol
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Alcohol
A Social and Cultural History
Edited by
Mack P. Holt
Oxford • New York
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English edition
First published in 2006 by
Berg
Editorial offices:
First Floor, Angel Court, 81 St Clements Street, Oxford OX4 1AW, UK
175 Fifth Avenue, New York, NY 10010, USA
© Mack P. Holt 2006
All rights reserved.
No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form
or by any means without the written permission of Berg.
Berg is the imprint of Oxford International Publishers Ltd.
Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data
A catalogue record for this book is available from the Library of Congress.
British Library Cataloguing-in-Publication Data
Alcohol : a social and cultural history / edited by Mack P.
Holt.—English ed.
p. cm.
Includes bibliographical references and index.
ISBN-13: 978-1-84520-166-1 (pbk.)
ISBN-10: 1-84520-166-3 (pbk.)
ISBN-13: 978-1-84520-165-4 (hardback)
ISBN-10: 1-84520-165-5 (hardback)
1. Drinking of alcoholic beverages—History. 2. Alcoholism—
History. 3. Bars (Drinking establishments)—History. I. Holt,
Mack P.
HV5023.A53 2006
394.1'309—dc22 2005034777
ISBN-13 978 1 84520 165 4 (Cloth)
978 1 84520 166 1 (Paper)
ISBN-10 1 84520 165 5 (Cloth)
1 84520 166 3 (Paper)
Typeset by Avocet Typeset, Chilton, Aylesbury, Bucks
Printed in the United Kingdom by Biddles Ltd, King’s Lynn.
www.bergpublishers.com
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Contents
Introduction 1
Part I Morality and Health 9
1 To Your Health: Wine as Food and Medicine in Mid-sixteenth-
century Italy 11
Ken Albala
2 Europe Divided: Wine, Beer, and the Reformation in Sixteenth-
century Europe 25
Mack P. Holt
3 In the Public Sphere: Efforts to Curb the Consumption of Rum
in Connecticut, 1760–1820 41
David W. Conroy
4 In Vino Veritas: The Construction of Alcoholic Disease in Liberal
Italy, 1880–1914 61
Paul A. Garfinkel
5 Mon docteur le vin: Wine and Health in France, 1900–1950 77
Kim Munholland
Part II Sociability 91
6 Drinking and Alehouses in the Diary of an English Mercer’s
Apprentice, 1663–1674 93
A. Lynn Martin
7 Taverns and the Public Sphere in the French Revolution 107
Thomas Brennan
8 Drink, Sociability, and Social Class in France, 1789–1945: The
Emergence of a Proletarian Public Sphere 121
W. Scott Haine
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vi Contents
9 The Lore of the Brotherhood: Continuity and Change in Urban
American Saloon Culture, 1870–1920 145
Madelon M. Powers
Part III State and Nation 161
10 “To the King o’er the Water”: Scotland and Claret, c. 1660–1763” 163
Charles Cameron Ludington
11 Revenue and Revelry on Tap: The Russian Tavern 185
Patricia Herlihy
12 Drinking the Good Life: Australia c. 1880–1980 203
Diane Erica Kirkby
13 Kaleidoscope in Motion: Drinking in the United States, 1400–2000 225
Jack S. Blocker, Jr.
Index 241
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Notes on Contributors
Ken Albala is Associate Professor and Chair of the History Department at the
University of the Pacific in Stockton, California. He is the author ofEating Right
in the Renaissance(University of California Press, 2002),Food In Early Modern
Europe(Greenwood, 2003),The Banquet(University of Illinois Press, 2006) and
is currently working on a book about beans for Berg. He is also editor of
Greenwood’sFood Culture Around the Worldseries.
Jack S. Blocker Jr. is Professor of History at Huron University College and
Adjunct Research Professor at the University of Western Ontario. He has authored
or edited six books on alcohol and temperance history,the most recent of which is
Alcohol and Temperance in Modern History: An International Encyclopedia
(ABC-Clio, 2003), which he co-edited with David M. Fahey and Ian R. Tyrrell.
Thomas Brennanis Professor of History at the United States Naval Academy in
Annapolis, Maryland. He is the author of Public Drinking and Popular Culture in
Eighteenth-Century Paris (Princeton University Press, 1988) and Burgundy to
Champagne: The Wine Trade in Early Modern France(Johns Hopkins University
Press, 1997).
David W. Conroy has taught at Northeastern University, the University of
Massachusetts at Boston, and the University of Connecticut at Storrs. His publi-
cations include In Public Houses: Drink And The Revolution Of Authority In
Colonial Massachusetts(University of North Carolina Press, 1995), and an article
on law and popular culture in seventeenth-century Massachusetts in Drinking:
Behavior And Belief In Modern History (University of California Press, 1991)
edited by Barrows and Room. Taverns figure prominently in his current manu-
script on race relations in Connecticut between 1740 and 1820.
Paul A.Garfinkel is Assistant Professor of History at Simon Fraser University in
Burnaby, British Columbia. He is presently completing his first book manuscript,
Juridical Culture and Criminal Law in Liberal and Fascist Italy.
W. Scott Haine is Adjunct Professor of History at the University of Maryland
University College in Adelphi, Maryland. His books include The World of the
Paris Cafe: Sociability Among the French Working Class, 1789–1914 (Johns
Hopkins University Press, 1996, paper ed. 1998); The History of France
(Greenwood Press, 2000), and The Culture and Customs of France (Greenwood
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viii Contributors
Press, forthcoming). His articles on cafés, sociability, and youth leisure have
appearedin Journal of Contemporary Historyand Journal of Family History.
Patricia Herlihy is Professor Emerita of History at Brown University and
Research Professor at the Watson Institute of International Studies at Brown
University. Her publications include Odessa: A History, 1794–1914 (Harvard
University Press, 1986); The Alcoholic Empire: Vodka and Politics in Late
Imperial Russia (Oxford University Press, 2002); “‘Joy of the Rus’: Rites and
Rituals of Russian Drinking,” Russian Review 50 (1991): 131–147; and “Odessa
Memories,” in Nicolas Iljine (ed.) Odessa Memories (University of Washington
Press, 2004).
Mack P. Holt is Professor of History at George Mason University in Fairfax,
Virginia. His publications includeThe Duke of Anjou and the Politique Struggle
during the Wars of Religion(Cambridge University Press, 1986);The French Wars
of Religion, 1562–1629(Cambridge University Press, 1995; 2nd ed. 2005); and as
editor, Renaissance and Reformation France, 1500–1648 (Oxford University
Press, 2002). He has also published articles on wine in the sixteenth century in
Past & Presentand inFood and Foodwaysand is currently completing a book on
wine and the Reformation in Burgundy.
Diane Kirkby is Reader in History at La Trobe University in Melbourne,
Australia. She has published extensively on women and work, including Alice
Henry: The Power of Pen and Voice (Cambridge University Press, 1991) and
Barmaids: A History of Women’s Work in Pubs (Cambridge University Press,
1997). She has also edited Sex, Power, and Justice: Historical Perspectives on Law
in Australia(Oxford University Press, 1995). Her most recent publications include
articles on beer drinking and licensing laws in Australia, and she is currently
writing a history of the Australian pub.
Charles C.Ludington is Visiting Assistant Professor of History at North Carolina
State University and Duke University. His dissertation (Columbia University,
2003) was entitled “Politics and the Taste for Wine in England and Scotland,
1660–1860.” His publications include “‘Be sometimes to your country true’: The
Politics of Wine in England, 1660–1714,” in Adam Smyth (ed.), Drink and
Conviviality in Early Modern England(Boydell and Brewer, 2004); and “‘A good
and most particular taste’: The Consumption and Meaning of Luxury Claret in
Early Eighteenth-Century England,” in A. Lynn Martin and Barbara Santich, eds.,
Culinary History(East Street, 2004).
A.Lynn Martinfounded the Research Centre for the History of Food and Drink
at the University of Adelaide in 1997 and served as its first Director from 1997 to
2004, where he established the Graduate Program in Gastronomy. His publications
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Contributors ix
include Alcohol, Sex, and Gender in Late Medieval and Early Modern Europe
(Palgrave, 2001), as well as a prizewinning article on fetal alcohol syndrome in
Food and Foodways, and as editor with Barbara Santich, Culinary History (East
Street Publications, 2004) and Gastronomic Encounters(forthcoming). He is cur-
rently a research fellow at the University of Adelaide.
Kim Munholland is Professor Emeritus of History at the University of
Minnesota. He has published Origins of Contemporary Europe, 1890–1914
(Harcourt, Brace & World, 1970) and Rock of Contention: Americans and Free
French at War in New Caledonia, 1940–1945(Berghahn Press, 2005). He served
as historical consultant to Don and Petie Kladstrup, Wine & War: The French, the
Nazis and the Battle for France’s Greatest Treasure (Broadway Books, 2001),
which led to his current interest in wine and health as part of French identity.
Madelon Powers is Associate Professor of History at the University of New
Orleans, Louisiana. Her publications include Faces Along the Bar: Lore and Order
in the Workingman’s Saloon, 1870–1920(University of Chicago Press, 1998) and
“Decay from Within,” in Susan Barrows and Robin Room (eds), Drinking:
Behavior and Belief Systems in Modern History (University of California Press,
1991). She has also written on bar culture for Encyclopedia of Recreation and
Leisure in America (Charles Scribner’s Sons, 2005), International Labor and
Working-Class Historyand History Today.