Adventure Guide: Scotland (Hunter Travel Guides)

601 Pages·2005·9.54 MB·English

by  Martin Li

Photo credit: Martin Li
H U N T E R T R A V E L G U I D E S
CASTLES, KILTS, CAIRNS & MORE
The Adventure Guide to Scotland
takes you to every corner of the
country: the Borders; Edinburgh;
dventure Guide
Glasgow and the Clyde Valley;
Argyll and the Isles; Inverness,
Loch Ness and Loch Lomond;
the Highlands and the Isle of
Skye; the Inner and Outer
Hebrides; Orkney and Shetland.
Travel by rail through breathtaking
scenery, from heather-clad hills to
craggy peaks; meander through the
glens on a driving tour; or get up
close on a horseback or cycle trip. On your way, explore the history of the Clans, the
Viking legacy and the legend of “Nessie.”
Enjoy Highland Games, Burns Night, and the Edinburgh Festival; shop for local crafts,
jewelry and crystal, tartans and tweeds; hear traditional music and dance at a ceilidh;
experience the adventures of hillwalking, deerstalking, fishing for salmon or trout, or
golfing in the countryside where the game was born.
Visit abbeys, cathedrals, castles and prehistoric sites; enjoy world-class dining, the
arts, and the pace of city life; and go on a whisky-tasting tour (or two).
Travel by ferry to observe seabirds, HISTORIC CASTLES
whales and seals in their remote island SIGHTSEEING & TOURS
and offshore habitats; canoe or kayak
the inland waterways; visit Highlands ski ART & ARCHITECTURE
resorts such as Cairngorm, Nevis and FESTIVALS & CELEBRATIONS
Glencoe; or experience an exhilerating
HILLCLIMBING & DEERSTALKING
cross-country quad-bike ride.
SCENIC DRIVES & CYCLE ROUTES
The author, a resident of Scotland,
provides his recommendations for the FISHING & GOLFING
best hotels and restaurants in all price 100s OF PLACES TO STAY & EAT
ranges, based on personal visits; detailed n SIGHTSEEING
TOWN & REGIONAL MAPS
hdoesrcsreibpatcioknstripsofandwasclkesn, ic cdyrcivles; and COLOR PHOTOGRAPHS n PLACES TO STAY & EAT
contact information for air, rail, ferry FULLY INDEXED n CASTLES, FORTS & OTHER HISTORIC SITES
and road travel in each region. n
NATURE & ECO TOURS
n CULTURAL ADVENTURES
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Martin Li
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SCOTLANDD
Scotland
Martin Li
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Adventure Guide to
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About The Author
It was during a geology field trip to Arran as a Cambridge undergraduate that
Martin Li first visited and fell in love with Scotland. A keen skier, horserider
and trekker, he has always had a passion for exploring the adventure and cul-
ture of the world’s great mountain regions and remote, hideaway destinations
in the developed world. A not-brief-enough foray into accountancy and corpo-
rate finance hampered travels for several years, although his passion for Scot-
land’s wilderness, mountains and islands remained undimmed. As a
freelance writer, he has traveled extensively around the country, writing fea-
tures on diverse subjects ranging from romantic hideaway hotels to exposing
the truth behind the many Scottish stereotypes. Martin lives in London and is
a fellow of the Royal Geographical Society.
Acknowledgements
This book would not have been possible without the generous and enthusias-
tic support of a great many people.
I would like to thank VisitScotland for providing information and help
throughout the project. Many regional tourist boards provided invaluable
assistance with local information and logistics during my research trips, par-
ticularly Caroline Gray (Glasgow), Sally Monro (Highlands), Grizelda Cowan
(Fife) and Hugh Sim (Shetland). I would also like to thank Colin Simpson
(Highlands) for his excellent advice on hiking, trekking and climbing.
I am indebted to the following for their generous help with transport to and
within Scotland on some unforgettably scenic journeys: John Yellowlees
(ScotRail); Andy Naylor (GNER); Allan McLean (Virgin Trains); Deborah
Brown (Caledonian MacBrayne); and Elaine Tulloch (NorthLink Ferries).
Thanks to Barbara Fraser (Historic Scotland) and Françoise van Buuren
(National Trust for Scotland) for providing background information and
access to their many fascinating properties throughout Scotland.
I was blessed to be able to stay in some fabulous accommodation and experi-
ence numerous superb adventures during my research. I would like to thank
my many hosts for their generous hospitality and for giving up their time to
share their expertise and local knowledge with me. Above all, I would like to
thank them for their wonderful company – many of my memories of chats late
into the night beneath star-filled skies, sometimes over a few not-so-wee
drams, will stay with me forever. There are too many people to mention indi-
vidually, but I am sure they know who they are. I cannot wait until we next
meet.
Contents
Introduction 1 Adventures 37
History 2 Walking & Climbing 37
Prehistoric Settlers 2 Cycling 44
The Early Tribes 2 Sailing 44
Unification of Scotland 3 Kayaking & Canoeing 44
Relations with England 3 Diving 45
The Wars of Independence 4 Skiing & Snowsports 45
Mary, Queen of Scots Horseback Riding 46
& The Reformation 5 Deer Stalking 46
Union of the Crowns 6 Fishing 47
The Jacobites 6 Golf 48
The Clearances 7 Tours & Cruises 48
Industrialization & On Horseback 48
Urbanization 7 On the Water 49
The 20th Century By Train 50
& Home Rule 7 On Foot 50
Geography 8 Holidays & Events 50
Climate 9 Communications 51
Wildlife 9 Post Offices 51
Birds 9 Telephone & Internet 51
Mammals 10 Scotland on Film 52
Fish 12 At the Movies 52
People & Culture 12 On Television 53
Language 13 Accommodations 53
Literature 14 Cuisine 54
Religion 15 Entertainment 55
National Symbols 16 Events, Festivals, Games 55
Music 16 Music 55
Clans 17 Spectator Sports 56
Tartan 18 Traditional Games 56
Kilt & Highland Dress 19
Highland Games 19 The South & Arran 57
Whisky 20 The Borders 57
Planning Your Trip 23 The Border Abbeys 63
Highlights of Scotland 23 Coldstream 64
When to Go 25 Eyemouth 65
How Long to Stay 26 Lammermuir Hills 66
Tourism Information 26 Kelso 67
Special Organizations 27 Jedburgh 68
Visas & Documents 28 Melrose & Galashiels 70
Money 28 Selkirk 74
Getting Here 30 Peebles 75
Getting Around 33 Hawick 76
vi n Scotland
Dumfries & Galloway 78 Loch Etive-North Lorn 221
Adventures 80 Isle of Lismore 226
Dumfries 81 Loch Awe & South Lorn 227
Gretna & Gretna Green 84 Isle of Seil 229
Moffat 85 Inveraray & Mid-Argyll 231
Castle Douglas to Inveraray 231
Kirkcudbright 87 Lochgilphead-Kilmartin 234
Newton Stewart, Kintyre Peninsula 237
Wigtown & Whithorn 90 Tarbert-North Kintyre 237
Stranraer & Portpatrick 92 Isle of Gigha 240
Ayrshire 94 Campbeltown &
Ayr 96 Mull of Kintyre 241
South Ayrshire 99
Irvine 100 Eastern Scotland 247
Largs 102 Kingdom of Fife 247
Isle of Arran 103 St Andrews 247
Cupar 255
Edinburgh & Lothians 111 Falkland 256
City of Edinburgh 111 Dunfermline 257
The Lothians 136 East Neuk 260
East Lothian 136 Kirkcaldy & Around 266
Midlothian 140 Culross-North Queensferry 268
West Lothian 143 Perthshire 269
Adventures 269
Glasgow & Clyde Valley 147 Perth 270
City of Glasgow 147 Crieff & Strathearn 274
Outside Glasgow 172 Pitlochry, Aberfeldy,
Clyde River Valley 177 Loch Tay & Loch Tummel 276
Blairgowrie, Dunkeld &
Argyll, Stirling
Glenshee 283
& The Trossachs 181
Loch Leven &
Stirling & Environs 183
South Perthshire 288
Clackmannanshire & the
Angus & Dundee 290
Ochil Hills 188
Dundee 290
Falkirk 190
Carnoustie 295
Campsies & Strathallan 192
Arbroath 296
Loch Lomond 195
Brechin & Montrose 299
Dumbarton 200
Glamis 302
Helensburgh 201
Forfar 303
The Trossachs 202
Edzell 304
Breadalbane 208
Kirriemuir 305
Cowal Peninsula 210
The Angus Glens 307
Isle of Bute 213
Aberdeenshire & Moray 309
Oban & Lorn 216
Getting Here 310
Oban 216
Aberdeen 312
Isle of Kerrera 220
Stonehaven 316
Contents n vii
Elgin 318 Kincraig 384
Dufftown, Rothes, Keith 321 Kingussie & Newtonmore384
Findhorn 324 Dalwhinnie, Loch Laggan387
Tomintoul 325 Lochaber 388
Royal Deeside & Donside 327 Fort William & Glen Nevis 388
Northeast Aberdeenshire337 Glen Spean 397
Glen Coe & Loch Leven 398
The Highlands & Skye 345 Ardnamurchan 405
Getting Here 346 Mallaig & The Isles 407
Inverness 347 Knoydart 410
Special Events 349 Lochalsh & Skye 412
Attractions & Sights 350 Lochalsh 412
Adventures 352 Isle of Skye 416
Golf 353 Isle of Raasay 430
Entertainment 353 Northern Highlands 432
Shopping 354 Wester Ross 433
Where To Stay 354 Sutherland & Caithness439
Where To Eat 356 Easter Ross & Black Isle
Nairn 357 453
Attractions & Sights 357
Adventures 359 The Hebrides 459
Golf 359 The Inner Hebrides 459
Wildlife Watching 359 Isle of Islay 460
Entertainment 360 Isle of Jura 471
Where To Stay & Eat 360 Colonsay & Oronsay 475
Beauly & Glen Affric 361 Isle of Mull 480
Attractions & Sights 362 Isle of Iona 489
Adventures 362 Isle of Ulva 493
Golf 363 Isle of Staffa 494
Wildlife Watching 364 Treshnish Isles 495
Shopping 364 Isle of Coll 495
Where To Stay & Eat 364 Isle of Tiree 497
Loch Ness & Great Glen 365 The Small Isles 498
Drumnadrochit 366 The Outer Hebrides 503
Fort Augustus 370 Getting Here & Around 504
South Shore 372 Adventures 506
Loch Oich & Loch Lochy 372 Isle of Lewis 507
Attractions & Sights 372 Isle of Harris 514
Adventures 373 Isle of North Uist 518
Where To Stay & Eat 375 Isle of Benbecula 520
Strathspey & Cairngorms 376 Isle of South Uist 521
Grantown-on-Spey 376 Isle of Eriskay 522
Aviemore, Boat Isle of Barra 523
of Garten & Carrbridge 378 Islands of St Kilda 525
viii n Scotland
Orkney & Shetland 527 The Shetland Isles 561
The Orkney Isles 527 Special Attractions 564
Events & Activities 529 Getting Here 565
Getting Here & Around 530 Getting Around 566
Food & Drink 531 Lerwick 567
Kirkwall 532 Bressay & Noss 570
Stromness 535 South Mainland 571
West & North Mainland 538 Central & West Mainland
East & South Mainland 542 575
Hoy 545 North Mainland 578
Shapinsay 547 Yell 579
Rousay 548 Unst 580
Wyre 549 Fetlar 582
Egilsay 549 Where To Stay & Eat 583
Stronsay 550 Fair Isle 584
Eday 551
Westray 552 Index 587
Papa Westray 554
Sanday 555
North Ronaldsay 557
Where To Stay & Eat 558
MAPS
Scotland . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Inside front cover
Regions of Scotland . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Inside back cover
South & Arran . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 58
The Borders . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 59
Dumfries & Galloway . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 79
Ayrshire & Arran. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 95
Edinburgh City . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 112
The Lothians . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 138
Glasgow . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 154
The Clyde Valley . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 176
Argyll, Stirling & The Trossachs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 182
Kingdom of Fife . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 246
Perthshire . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 271
Angus & Dundee . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 291
Aberdeenshire & Moray . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 311
Highlands . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 348
Skye . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 413
Inner Hebrides . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 458
Outer Hebrides . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 505
Orkney Islands. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 528
Shetland Islands . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 563
Introduction
erched on the outer rim of Europe
Pand occupying the northern IN THIS CHAPTER
extreme of Great Britain, bonnie Scot- n History 2
land is as incomparably beautiful and n Geography 8
alluring as anywhere on earth. Its spec- n Climate 9
tacular topography is sculpted by n Wildlife 9
intense glaciation and fiery geology, n People & Culture 12
creating a breathtaking palette of n Planning Your Trip 23
mountains, lochs and glens, and a jag- n Adventures 37
ged coastline splashed with chains of n Tours & Cruises 48
wildly romantic islands. Numerous n Holidays & Events 50
standing stone circles, burial cairns n Communications 51
and forts dating back many thousands n Scotland On Film 52
of years testify to prehistoric occupa- n Accommodations 53
tion of these unspoiled lands, which n Cuisine 54
today sustain ancient cultures and life- n Entertainment 55
styles and preserve some of Europe’s
last surviving true wilderness.
A long and turbulent history ravaged by war and strife has left a legacy of
proud castles – some now forlorn ruins, others retaining their full majesty –
and poignant, whispering battlefields. Many monuments record Scotland’s
long history, ranging from Neolithic sites long predating Egypt’s pyramids, to
preserved medieval cities and fortresses, and magnificent Georgian and Vic-
torian settlements.
A rich and varied culture manifests itself through colorful tartans, Highland
Games, the Gaelic language, wide-reaching traditions such as Hogmanay and
Burns Suppers, folk songs, fiddle and pipe music at ceilidhs (pronounced
“kay-lees,” these are informal gatherings with traditional music, dance and
verse) and, of course, whisky – the water of life.
Romance courses deeply through Scotland. Who can fail to be moved by the
poetry of Robert Burns or the haunting lament of a Gaelic ballad? Heroic but
ultimately tragic figures such as William Wallace, Mary, Queen of Scots and
Bonnie Prince Charlie retain a palpable presence. Their stirring tales of dar-
ing and crushed dreams continue to tug strongly at the heartstrings and even
today tinge the land with nostalgia and sadness.
Scotland is rich in contrasts; landscapes can change dramatically within an
hour’s travel. This varied terrain and Scotland’s wide, empty spaces offer
boundless opportunities to enjoy the great outdoors, most notably hiking,
climbing, cycling, sailing, shooting and fishing. Watchable wildlife ranges
from eagles, deer, otters and Highland cattle, to seals, whales and basking
sharks. And Scotland is the home of golf, with not just world-famous courses
such as St Andrews, Muirfield, Carnoustie and Troon, but also a bewildering
range of other beautiful and testing options.