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Place the prepared fat over
two-thirds of the dough.
Detroit • New York • San Francisco • New Haven, Conn • Waterville, Maine • London
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Advanced Bread and Pastry: © 2009 Delmar, Cengage Learning
A Professional Approach,
ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. No part of this work covered by the copyright herein may be
First Edition
reproduced, transmitted, stored or used in any form or by any means graphic, electronic, or
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DEDICATION
I would like to dedicate this book to all the people who supported me dur-
ing my journey in the industry. It was a bumpy road at times but always
enjoyable for a 14-year-old dropout student.
I would like to start in France, from my fi rst pastry chef, Mr. Hingouet, who
gave me the opportunity to be his apprentice, to chef Mr. Blaise who gave
me the value of the food and craft 1i n1 the kitchen. To Mr. Barrier who offered
me the position of executive pastry chef at the age of 22, at his three star
restaurant. To all my mentors and coworkers.
In the United States, to all my customers at TMB Baking Inc., to all the stu-
dents at the San Francisco Baking Institute who help me achieve my goals.
To the people who trusted me and sought out my advice and consulting for
their ventures, or kept attending classes at SFBI.
This book is to say thank you for all your support, encouragement, and
trust. I hope this book will fulfi ll your expectations, and that it will help you
teach the new generation or discover the value of the craft.
Likewise, thank you to all the persons who participated in the creation of
this book, everyone at SFBI and TMB Baking Inc., and my family, especially
my daughter Julie Marie who gave the strength and spirit to move forward
whenever I thought the book was more than I could handle. She always
managed to make me laugh.
Thank you all!
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c o n t e n t s
Advanced Bread and Pastry: A Professional Approach
Preface . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . vii Chapter 13: Pies and Tarts . . . . . . . . 507
Chapter 14: Cake Mixing
PART 1: INTRODUCTION
and Baking . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 549
Chapter 1: Bread and Pastry:
Chapter 15: Syrups, Creams,
A Historical Perspective and
Custards, Egg Foams, and Icings . . . 591
Current Opportunities. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5
Chapter 16: Mousse . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 649
Chapter 2: Food Safety and
Sanitation in the Bakery . . . . . . . . . . . . 23 Chapter 17: Classic and Modern
Cake Assembly . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 669
PART 2: BREAD
Chapter 18: Petits Fours
Chapter 3: The Baking Process and Confections . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 767
and Dough Mixing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 51
Chapter 19: Frozen Desserts . . . . . . 823
Chapter 4: Fermentation . . . . . . . . . . . 77
Chapter 20: Plated Desserts . . . . . . . 867
Chapter 5: Baking Bread . . . . . . . . . . 113
Chapter 21: Advanced
Chapter 6: Advanced Flour Decoration . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 907
Technology and Dough
Chapter 22: Chocolate and
Conditioners . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 127
Chocolate Work . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 941
Chapter 7: Alternative Baking
Appendix A: Conversions . . . . . . . . . 993
Processes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 163
Appendix B: Baker’s Percentages . . 995
Chapter 8: Bread Formulas . . . . . . . . 177
Appendix C: Temperature
PART 3: VIENNOISERIE Conversions . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .1000
Chapter 9: Viennoiserie . . . . . . . . . . . 305
Glossary . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .1001
PART 4: PASTRY References . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .1019
Chapter 10: Cookies . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 401 Formula Index . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .1021
Chapter 11: Quick Breads . . . . . . . . . 443 Subject Index . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .1027
Chapter 12: Pastry Dough . . . . . . . . 477
| vi |
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PREFACE
Advanced Bread and Pastry: A Professional Approach is a comprehen-
sive guide to bread and pastry, designed as a resource for colleges and
universities, private culinary schools, and professionals. Balancing a
respect for tradition with modern approaches to method and technique,
Advanced Bread and Pastry unites appealing presentation and indispens-
able instruction. It is written to help today’s instructor, baker, and pastry
chef respond to the recent evolution of ingredients, products, and pre-
sentation in the industry. The recipes (called formulas) are based on a
variety of classic and contemporary methods and processes. With this
strong foundation of knowledge, bakers and pastry chefs are ready to
develop advanced skills, experiment with new ideas, and understand
any formula.
THE FORMULAS
A formula can be seen as the composition of different ingredients that
have been properly and thoughtfully selected. It is a procedure followed
with an observation and a fi nal product with an evaluation.
Product evaluation should be made during the whole process of the
formula, not just when it is fi nished. By doing this you know what to change
in the formula or the process and how to correct the problem. Through the
process of creation, we learn the properties of each ingredient by noticing
their reactions within the process and examining the end results.
Each formula is presented here with the best knowledge of the
name applied to it. Some of these formulas or compositions are very
classic; they are presented here because we realize the importance of
knowing where we have come from. These classics are bases for you; they
allow you to evolve the product with your own style and fl avor. Even with
this license though, do not call bread shaped like a boule a baguette. All
the terminology in this book, presented as key words by chapter, is accu-
rate. You can use these terms with confi dence. For example, it is impor-
tant to know that a biga is a biga and that it is not a sponge or a poolish
or anything else because it’s a biga. In the glossary you will fi nd all of the
key words that are and are not part of our common language, which you
need to remember, use properly, and teach to each other.
HOW TO USE THIS BOOK
In using this book, you should review the explanations in each chapter
for information on ingredients and processes (including mixing, baking,
and fi nishing) in order to understand how to succeed with the formulas
presented. The most important part of any formula is the process; you
need to take full control of all the steps in order to be able to observe
what is happening and to be able to correct it if necessary.
| vii |
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PREFACE
First, read the chapter to understand the context. Use the glossary
to go further on key words and use the ingredient section in the online
companion at http://www.delmarlearning.com/companions/, as well as
the ingredients lists in the chapters, to understand the properties and
uses of ingredients for different purposes.
The goal of this book is to educate and improve skills through the
information provided as well as hands-on learning. For this, we have
provided a spectrum of formulas that represent a range of techniques
and processes to yield different end results. By creating different formu-
las with different ingredients and processes you are able to achieve a
knowledge of different products and their characteristics. For example,
the section on cake mixing presents sponge cake, liquid shortening
cake, and creaming method cakes in order for you to understand the
relationship between ingredients, process, and the fi nal product. In
the sections that deal with fermentation, we have presented a range of
options for formulas, including baguette, croissant, Danish, and bri-
oche. This is because the use of different preferments and mixing tech-
niques will give you an understanding of the specifi c formulas’ effects
on mixing and fermentation and the effect they can have on work
schedules, as well as the rheological properties of the dough, fl avor,
and shelf life.
TROUBLESHOOTING
This book is written with troubleshooting tips throughout the chapters.
If the product does not turn out properly, go back to the chapter and
read. Look for answers to help you understand what could have gone
wrong and why. The best part of the baking and pastry industry is that
you can discover something new every time you make a product.
Again, this book provides the best of the classical preparations and
processes. Sometimes you will be faced with a formula with a different
ingredient selection, a different approach to the formula, or a different
appearance of the fi nished product from this book. Embrace the differ-
ences to understand and learn from them. This is the beauty of our indus-
try. You can create your own product like an artist, musician, or painter.
ABOUT THE AUTHOR
Michel Suas, founder of the San Francisco Baking Institute (SFBI) and
TMB Baking, was trained in France, his native country, where he earned
diplomas in cooking, pastry, and baking. After nearly four decades in the
industry, Michel has demonstrated his expertise in all areas of baking
and pastry, including form, formula, production, bakery layout, bakery
equipment, and training. In 1996, Michel founded SFBI, which has since
educated thousands of professional and aspiring bakers from all over the
world. The school has acted as a training site for several award-winning
Baking USA teams and has hosted a variety of international groups from
countries including Russia, China, and Japan. Michel’s commitment to
establishing the education needed for students entering the baking trade,
and professionals motivated to strengthen their skills, continues to grow.
His devotion to education is Michel’s primary focus as he expands SFBI’s
curriculum and travels around the world sharing his extensive knowl-
edge and passion for the trade.
| viii |
Copyright 2011 Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be copied, scanned, or duplicated, in whole or in part. Due to electronic rights, some third party content may be suppressed from the eBook and/or eChapter(s).
Editorial review has deemed that any suppressed content does not materially affect the overall learning experience. Cengage Learning reserves the right to remove additional content at any time if subsequent rights restrictions require it.
