A Good Catch: Sustainable Seafood Recipes from Canada's Top Chefs

193 Pages·2009·7.272 MB·English

by  Jill Lambert, David Suzuki

L
A
T M
he ULTIMATE fi sh COOKBOOK for B JILL LAMBERT F
resh, local, healthy, socially con-
E
scious, delicious: sustainable seafood
R FOREWORD by DAVID SUZUKI
seafood lovers and ENVIRONMENTALLY
T is all of these. And by choosing abun-
dant species of fish and shellfish and har-
CONSCIOUS home chefs
vesting them responsibly, we can ensure our
JILL LAMBERT is descended from a long line enjoyment of them for many years to come.
a
of fi shermen. After spending a dozen years This is a cookbook I’ve been waiting for: g Guided by SeaChoice, a program run by
as a book editor, she became a writer. She o Sustainable Seafood Canada, A Good Catch
a collection of made-in-Canada recipes with a heavy
is the author or co-author of several books, o explains which are the best, most respon-
emphasis on ethically caught and raised seafood.
including the Lesley Stowe Fine Foods Cookbook. d sible seafood choices and features them in
But Jill Lambert isn’t satisfi ed with trotting out
Jill lives in Vancouver, B.C., with her family. c more than seventy mouth-watering recipes
sustainable versions of your grandma’s solomon gundy a
Visit her website: www.agoodcatch.org from celebrity chefs across the country.
and shrimp-and-cheese balls. From Charlottetown t
c Among the delights are Jamie Kennedy’s
CHRIS AERNI · KAREN BARNABY to Sooke, she’s cast wide and netted some of the h a good catch
Marinated Herring with Warm Apple and
country’s best chefs, and I’m pleased to say there’s
MONICA BAUCHÉ AND DENNIS JOHNSTON Potato Salad, Rémi Cousyn’s Pickerel
absolutely no bycatch or discards: these recipes S
u Tempura with Wasabi-Ginger Tartar Sauce,
s
DAVID BESTON · JOHN BISHOP · GABRIELLE BRIGHT · ANDREW CHASE · CINDA CHAVICH refl ect both Canada’s cultural diversity and the t
a
fantastic variety of fi sh in its rivers and off its coasts. in Bonnie Stern’s Tilapia Piccata with Aspara-
a
ROBERT CLARK · JENNIFER COCKRALL-KING · RÉMI COUSYN · LYNN CRAWFORD · TIM CUFF b gus, Frédéric Morin’s Clam Rarebit, Chris
A Good Catch is, as the title suggests, a keeper. le
JENNIFER DANTER · MARC DE CANCK S Aerni’s Naked Lobster with Green Pea Purée,
e
TARAS GRESCOE, author of Bottomfeeder: a and Robert Clark’s Oyster and Leek Stew.
f
ANNE DESJARDINS · TOM DOUGLAS · DAVID FERGUSON · DAVID FEYS · CRAIG FLINN · TERRY GERETA How to Eat Ethically in a World of Vanishing Seafood o
o Packed with tips on choosing, storing,
d
KUNAL GHOSE · ROLAND AND KATHLEEN GLAUSER · TED GRANT · CAMERON GREAVES R and preparing fi sh and shellfi sh; overviews
e
c
DAVID HAWKSWORTH · MATTHEW HORN MICHAEL HOWELL · ANDREA JEFFERSON ip of the principal farming, fi shing, and har-
e
s Sustainable vesting methods, and summaries of the
f
JAMIE KENNEDY · BEN KRAMER · LEIF KRAVIS · RENÉE LAVALLÉE · SUSUR LEE · STEVE LEMIEUX · ANDREA LEUNG · PATRICK LIN r
o issues affecting individual species (plus sub-
m
GORDON MACKIE · J.B. MACKINNON · TRISH MAGWOOD PATRICK MCMURRAY · SUSAN MENDELSON C stitutes for popular, unsustainable species),
a SEAFOOD RECIPES
n A Good Catch is a must-have for afi cionados
FRÉDÉRIC MORIN · MARIO NAVARRETE, JR. · NICK NUTTING ROMEO OLORESISIMO · VITALY PALEY a
d
a of fi ne food and a healthy planet.
’s
RUSTY PENNO · STELIO PEROMBELON · SINCLAIR PHILIP SCOTT POHORELIC · KEVIN PRENDERGAST · ANGELO PROSPERI-PORTA T from Canada's
o
p
GARNER QUAIN · DAVID ROBERTSON LIANA ROBBERECHT · JANE RODMELL · JASON ROJAS C
h
e • • •
JOEL ROUSELL · BRYAN SCHILLIE · WADE SIROIS · DUNCAN SMITH · MICHAEL SMITH · BONNIE STERN · LESLEY STOWE f Top Chefs
g s

vancouv er/toron to/berke ley MICHAEL SULLIVAN · MARINO TAVARES HIDEKAZU TOJO · VIKRAM VIJ · STEVE WALL
www.greystonebooks.com
ANTHONY WALSH · DOLLY WATTS · JASON WILSON · DAVID WYSE { $24.95 canada }
Jacket design and illustrations by Naomi MacDougall
Author photo by Jim Boraas
©
Printed and bound in Canada
Printed on forest-friendly paper
Distributed in the U.S. by Publishers Group West • • •
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a good catch
AGoodCatchInteriorFINAL.indd 1 9/12/08 3:36:27 PM
Sustainable
seaFood recipes
a good catch
from Canada's
Top Chefs
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JILL LAMBERT
Sustainable
seaFood recipes
a good catch
from Canada's
Top Chefs
g
Douglas & McIntyre Publishing Group
vancouver/toronto/berkeley
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To my husband, Justin Smallbridge, and our boys, Henry and Spencer.
Copyright © 2008 by Jill Lambert
08 09 10 11 12 5 4 3 2 1
All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system or
transmitted, in any form or by any means, without the prior written consent of the publisher
or a licence from The Canadian Copyright Licensing Agency (Access Copyright). For a
copyright licence, visit www.accesscopyright.ca or call toll free to 1-800-893-5777.
Greystone Books David Suzuki Foundation
A division of Douglas & McIntyre Ltd. 2211 West 4th Avenue, Suite 219
2323 Quebec Street, Suite 201 Vancouver, British Columbia
Vancouver, British Columbia Canada v6k 4s2
Canada v5t 4s7
www.greystonebooks.com
Library and Archives Canada Cataloguing in Publication
Lambert, Jill, 1962–
A good catch : sustainable seafood recipes from Canada’s top chefs / Jill Lambert.
Includes index.
Co-published by: David Suzuki Foundation.
isbn 978-1-55365-385-1
1. Cookery (Seafood). 2. Sustainable fisheries. i. David Suzuki
Foundation ii. Title.
tx747.l338 2008 641.6’92 c2008-904112-7
“Fast Fish Hash” adapted from Where People Feast: An Indigenous People’s Cookbook by Dolly
and Annie Watts, published by Arsenal Pulp Press. Reprinted by permission of the authors.
“Pan-seared Scallops with Leek and Tarragon Sauce” by Trish Magwood extracted from
Dish Entertains: Everyday Simple to Special Occasions. Recipe copyright © 2007 by Trish
Magwood. Published by HarperCollins Canada Ltd. All rights reserved. Reprinted by permis-
sion of the author. “Crispy Fried Trout Fillets with Red Pepper Mayonnaise” by Cinda Chavich
extracted from High Plains: The Joy of Alberta Cuisine. Published in 2001 by Fifth House Books.
Reprinted by permission of the author. “Walleye Fillets with St. Lawrence Crayfish, Summer
Vegetable Medley, and Basil” by Anne Desjardins adapted from Anne Desjardins Cooks at L’Eau
à la Bouche: The Seasonal Cuisine of Quebec, published by Douglas & McIntyre. Reprinted by
permission of the author. “Salmon and Shrimp Cakes with Blueberry Pear Salsa” by John
Bishop adapted from Cooking at My House, published by Douglas & McIntyre. Reprinted by
permission of the author.
Editing by Lucy Kenward
Copyediting by Pam Robertson
Jacket and text design by Naomi MacDougall
Jacket and interior illustrations by Naomi MacDougall
Printed and bound in Canada by Friesens
Printed on acid-free paper that is forest friendly (100% post-consumer recycled paper)
and has been processed chlorine free
Distributed in the US by Publishers Group West
We gratefully acknowledge the financial support of the Canada Council for the Arts,
the British Columbia Arts Council, the Province of British Columbia through the Book
Publishing Tax Credit, and the Government of Canada through the Book Publishing
Industry Development Program (bpidp) for our publishing activities.
AGoodCatchInteriorFINAL.indd 4 9/12/08 3:36:39 PM
Contents
1 Foreword by David Suzuki
3 Acknowledgements
4 Introduction
9 Sustainable Alternatives for Popular Species—
Choosing Good Fish Over Bad
10 Choosing, Preparing,
and Storing Fish and Seafood
18 Cooking Times for Fish and Seafood
22 Fish
100 shellFish & molluscs
160 Making Sustainable Choices
167 Species by Species Sustainability Guide
178 Metric Conversions
180 Index
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Foreword
My earliest memories from childhood are of going camping and
fishing with my father. And fish have remained a central part of my
life ever since.
As a young boy growing up in London, Ontario, I was an out-
sider. Fish kept me out of trouble and interested in the world. If I
was too scared to ask a girl out on a date, I could at least go fish-
ing—and I spent hours in local waters trying to entice these fasci-
nating creatures to take my hook.
Fishing continued to connect me to nature as well as being
a source of enjoyment, peace, and food as I went through school,
started a family, and built a career. Later in life, I learned from the
First Nations in British Columbia about the central role wild salmon
have played in their culture and spirituality throughout thousands
of years of rich history.
More recently, work supported by my foundation has brought
to light scientific evidence of the essential role salmon serve in
accumulating critical nutrients from the ocean, which are then
spread through the entire ecosystem of the Pacific temperate rain
forest and even fertilize the mighty trees.
Fish and the waters they inhabit sustain us in all kinds of ways.
Obviously, they provide food and generate economic activity, they
connect and support ecosystems, and they are part of larger marine
systems that regulate weather and absorb greenhouse gases to slow
global warming.
But fish and the oceans, lakes, and rivers where they live are
in trouble these days, and it hurts me to see it. Stocks are declin-
ing because of overfishing, habitats are being destroyed by bottom
trawling or urban sprawl, oceans are being acidified from climate
change, and pollution is killing lakes and streams. All of which
threaten these animals that we rely on for so much.
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The problems are many, but we as individuals can help. We can
make wise choices about what seafood we eat, and we can trans-
late that care into action. By choosing to buy fish that are abundant,
well managed, and caught or farmed in ways that do not destroy the
environment, we can make a difference: we can reduce the demand
for fish that aren’t sustainable, we can put pressure on industries to
do better, and we can tell governments that we want them to take
care of these precious creatures and their habitat.
Please join me in translating the sustainable-seafood recipes in
this book, lovingly provided by chefs and fish lovers from across
Canada, into wonderful meals. And I hope that, in between meals,
you also take the time to tell the folks who work at your local gro-
cery stores and restaurants, as well as your elected representatives,
how much we need their help to make sustainable seafood the only
fish in the sea. So now, enjoy.
David Suzuki
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Acknowledgements
My profound thanks to:
the chefs, for giving their recipes
Dr. David Suzuki, for his support of this project and for his
leadership
the multi-talented Julie Marr, chief recipe tester, adventure fish
shopper, and problem solver
Jennifer Danter, who created a clear and consistent recipe
manuscript
Alison Lambert, Susie Findlay, and Linda Yorke, for recipe testing
Lesley Chesterman, Sadie Beaton, Tina Pittaway, Leah Mann, and
Jennifer Cockrall-King, for chef contacts and recipes
Jay Ritchlin, Bill Wareham, Dominic Ali, and Scott Wallace of
the David Suzuki Foundation; Taina Uitto of SeaChoice Canada;
Susanna Fuller of the Ecology Action Centre, and Robert Campbell,
for the information they provided about fish and sustainability
Rob Sanders, Nancy Flight, and Lucy Kenward of Greystone Books,
for bringing this book about
Evan Pyle, for his interest and support
my father, Doug Lambert, for his help and support
my mother, Beverly Lambert, for taking me fishing
my uncle, Sonny Nelson, for sharing his knowledge and his won-
derful dinners. Thanks for all the great fish!
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