Sustainable Apparel Consumption

147 Pages·2014·0.69 MB·English

by  Ruirui Zhang

AN ABSTRACT OF THE DISSERTATION OF

Ruirui Zhang for the degree of Doctor of Philosophy in Design and Human Environment
presented on May 30, 2014.

Title: Sustainable Apparel Consumption: Scale Development and Validation

Abstract approved: ______________________________________________________
Brigitte G. Cluver

_______________________________________________________
Leslie Davis Burns

Abstract

The purpose of this project was to develop a scale to measure sustainable apparel
consumption. This study used concept analysis to identify attributes of sustainable apparel
consumption. Within an academic online database, a search for articles containing
“sustainable consumption” in their titles was performed. Within each article, the attributes
associated with sustainable consumption were identified. Based on the attributes found, The
researcher developed an initial sustainable apparel consumption measurement scale, and then
conducted a series of quantitative tests to examine its reliability and validity. The findings of
this study resulted in 11 sustainable apparel consumption (SAC) scales and generalizable to
both those who and those who do not practice sustainable consumption. The SAC scales
created an overall standard of sustainable consumption in apparel by including the three main
stages of consumption, pre-acquisition, acquisition and post-acquisition, and three principles
of sustainability, social responsible behaviors and environmentally oriented behaviors. The
results showed statistically acceptable internal reliability and validity. The major
contributions of this group of scales are to clarify the behaviors associated with sustainable
apparel consumption and consequently to provide a measurement scale foundation for future
research. The 11 scales represent 11 behavioral dimensions within consumption which
should be used separately to investigate consumers’ consumption behaviors including
consumers’ need recognition; consumption behaviors towards products’ environmental
impact, e.g., whether consumers will purchase an apparel made from organic and recycled
materials; consumption behaviors towards products’ social impact, e.g., whether consumers
will purchase an apparel made from ethical manufactures and retailers; consumption
behaviors towards perceived manufacture and retailers environmental and social
commitment, e.g., the degree to which consumers prefer to purchase apparel linked to
manufacturers and retailers who are identified with environmental and social causes; point of
purchase behavior, e.g., whether consumers will by second-hand clothes; continued use, e.g.,
whether consuemrs will continue to wear an item which is damaged ; repurpose behavior,
e.g., whether consumers will repurpose an item which is damaged; alteration for maintenance,
e.g., whether consumers will alter an item which is not fit; use of eco-cleaning processes, e.g.,
whether consumers use eco-friendly detergent; and divestment behavior (give it away),
e.g.,whether consumers will donate their unwanted clothes.
©Copyright by Ruirui Zhang
May 30, 2014
All Rights Reserved
Sustainable Apparel Consumption: Scale Development and Validation

by
Ruirui Zhang

A DISSERTATION

Submitted to

Oregon State University

in partial fulfillment of
the requirements for the
degree of

Doctor of Philosophy

Presented May 30, 2014
Commencement June 2015
Doctor of Philosophy dissertation of Ruirui Zhang presented on May 30, 2014

APPROVED:

Co-major Professor, representing Design and Human Environment

Co-major Professor, representing Design and Human Environment

Minjeong Kim, Associate Dean for the School of Design and Human Environment

Dean of the Graduate School

I understand that my dissertation will become part of the permanent collection of Oregon
State University libraries. My signature below authorizes release of my dissertation to any
reader upon request.

Ruirui Zhang, Author
ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS

I have received valuable support and guidance from many people. Firstly, I would
like to express my sincere gratitude to my major professors Dr. Brigitte Cluver and Dr. Leslie
D. Burns. They have been extremely supportive and helpful in my graduate studies as well as
providing me with expert guidance throughout the dissertation process.
I would like to express my appreciation to all my committee members for serving on
my dissertation committee and giving me assistance and suggestions. Many thanks go to Dr.
Hal Koenig, my minor professor in Marketing, he always provided me help when I had
questions, and Dr. Hsiou-Lien Chen and Dr. Kirsi Peltomäki, my committee members, for
their time and assistance.
Thanks also go to professors, instructors in Oregon State University, University of
Rhode Island, University of Missouri and Texas Tech University, as well as members in
Student Sustainability Initiative (SSI) in Oregon State University who gave me permission to
collect data.
I want to acknowledge the support of my friends in Corvallis and officemates in the
department. They helped me go through those dark cloudy days, and taught me how to
release stress and inspired my interest in the academic world.
And last, I wish to express my eternal gratitude to my parents. I cannot adequately
express my appreciation to them; I could not have succeeded without their love and
supports. I really want to let you know, my parents, your encouragement and understanding
helped me become a stronger and better person. This work is dedicated to you.
TABLE OF CONTENTS
Page
1. Chapter 1 Introduction …………………………………………………………………....1
1.1 Overview………………………………………………………………………………1
1.2 Statement of purpose and objectives…………………………………………………..3
1.3 Research questions…………………………………………………………………….4
1.4 Definition of terms…………………………………………………………………….5
2. Chapter 2 Literature review…………………………………………………………….......9

2.1 Sustainable consumption from a macro-level versus a micro-level perspective.......9
2.1.1 Macro-level Perspectives of Sustainable Consumption…………………….12
2.1.2 Micro-level Perspectives of Sustainable Consumption…………………….16
2.2 Defining sustainable consumption of apparel ………………………………….....19
2.2.1 The concept of “consumption”……………………………………………...19
2.2.1a EKB consumer decision making process model…………………...... 21
2.2.1b The process of clothing consumption……………………………...... 24
2.2.2 The concept of “sustainable”…………………………………………..…....25
2.2.2a Attributes of sustainable apparel products…………………………... 27
2.2.2b Attributes of sustainable apparel consumption behavior …………… 31
2.2.2c Sustainability as it relates to corporate social responsibility…………43
2.2.2d Two dimensions of social responsibility: environmental responsibility
versus social responsibility………………………………………… 44
2.3 Related scales: scales and theories associated with sustainable consumption.……46
2.3.1 New Environmental Paradigm (NEP)…………………………………47
2.3.2 Ecology scale ……………………….………………………………....48
TABLE OF CONTENTS
Page
2.3.3 Environmental concern…………………………………………………..49
2.3.4 Environment concern in apparel……………………………………....49
2.3.5 Eco-fashion consumption……………………………………………..51
2.3.6 Intended pro-environmental behavior scale…………………………..51
2.4 Theories to which a sustainable consumption scale can contribute………………52
2.4.1 Theory of reasoned action………………………………………………….53
2.4.2 Theory of planned behavior………………………………………………..54
2.4.3 Schwartz norm-activation theory ………………………………………….55
2.4.4 Stern’s value belief norm theory…………………………………………...55
2.5 Review conclusion ……………………………………………………………….56
3. Method ……………………………………………………………………......................59

3.1 Overview………………………………………………………………………….59
3.2 Research design…………………………………………………………………. .60
3.2.1 Item development: initial scale item generation…………………………….60
3.2.2 Examine the content validity of the initial scale………………………….... 67
3.2.3. Examine the reliability of the initial scale………………………………….68
3.3 Sample selection…………………………………………………………………..68
3.4 Questionnaire administration…………………………………………………...…69
3.5. Data analysis……………………………………………………………………...70
3.5.1 Item analysis…………………………………………………........................72
3.5.2 Validity analysis………………………………………………………….......71
4. Results …………………………………………………………………………………....75
TABLE OF CONTENTS
Page
4.1 First stage: Initial scale development………………………………………………...75
4.2 Second stage: Scale purification………………………………………………….......75
4.3 Initial item reliability analysis………………………………………………………..77
4.3.1 Item refinement by using item-test correlation………………………………....78
4.3.2 Assessment of scale reliability………………………………………………….77
4.4 Third stage: scale validation…………………………………………………………..91
5. Discussion and implication ……………………………………………………………….104

Bibliography………………………………………………………………………………....123
Appendix…………………………………………………………………………….............130
Appendix A Sustainable apparel consumption scale……………………………………133
Appendix B Revised New Environmental Paradigm (NEP) Scale Items……………….133
Appendix C Pro-Environmental Behavior (PEB) scale…………………………………133
Appendix D Eco-Fashion Consumption (ECO) scale …………………………………..134
Appendix E Buying Impulsiveness (IMB) scale………………………………………...134
Appendix F Demographic questions…………………………………………………….135
Appendix G IRB Notification of exemption…………………………………………….136
LIST OF FIGURES
Figure Page
Figure 1.1 The macro versus micro perspective on sustainable consumption…………..12
Figure 2.1 Consumer decision making process………………………………………….23
Figure 2.2 Consumer household logistics system model………………………………..25