Some people are saying that actress Halldóra Geirharðsdóttir should be Iceland's next president ...

64 Pages·2015·25.48 MB·English

Issue 13 × 2015
August 28 - September 10
YOUR FREE COPY THE ESSENTIAL GUIDE TO LIFE, TRAVEL & ENTERTAINMENT IN ICELAND
IN THIS ISSUE

SEX
Betty Dodson will teach you!

CULTURE
We were delighted,
terrified by Reykjavík
Culture Night!
MUSIC
kimono are going
to hurt you.
NEWS
Iceland vs. Russia?
GOATS
Yes, goats!
Halldóra Geirharðsdóttir in conversation
with Erna Ómarsdóttir, page 20.
Wonder Woman?
Some people are saying that actress Halldóra Geirharðsdóttir
should be Iceland's next president, on account of her sharp
vision of Iceland's political present, and future.
She hasn't said no...
+
Complete Lots of Get the FREE Grapevine apps
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The Reykjavík Grapevine 2 The Reykjavík Grapevine
Issue 1 — 2011 Issue 13 — 2015
2
Hafnarstræti 15, 101 Reykjavík
www.grapevine.is
[email protected] CONFLICT, STRIFE, TURMOIL, MAJESTIC
Published by Fröken ehf. TRACK OF
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WATERFALLS & CUTE PUFFINS
Member of the Icelandic Travel Industry Association
www.saf.is
Printed by Landsprent ehf. in 25.000 copies.
Editorial: Haukur S. Magnússon THE ISSUE
Editor In Chief:
Haukur S Magnússon / [email protected]
Journalist & Travel editor:
John Rogers / [email protected]
Journalist & Listings editor
Lately, we at Grapevine often find ourselves in a somewhat should do it.
Gabríel Benjamin / [email protected]
Food Editor: difficult position when it comes to reporting on life in Ice- Tourism is great, but as any industry—especially one
Ragnar Egilsson / [email protected] land. that’s undergoing a period of unfettered growth—it needs
Editorial:
[phone] / [email protected] On one hand, we are clearly and proudly a tourist publi- to be carefully managed and considered, thought out and
Advertising: cation, one that has the stated aim of serving visitors to Ice- discussed. As Grapevine journalist Paul Fontaine noted in a
[phone] / [email protected]
[phone] land and offering them a critical window into local events, powerful opinion piece a few issues back, we Icelanders have
Publisher: culture and discourse. This has been our MO since our very far too often placed all our eggs in a basket, gleefully rushing
Hilmar Steinn Grétarsson / [email protected]
first issue, way back in 2003, when only around 60,000 trav- forward with reckless abandon in a clumsy gold rush orgy
[phone] / [email protected]
ellers passed through Keflavík International Airport (last that inevitably ends in tears (seriously, it’s been, what, seven
Contributing Writers: year, the number amounted to roughly 1.4 million. My, how years since we last passed through a financial valley of the
Valgerður Þóroddsdóttir
W.H. Auden we’ve grown). shadow of death?).
Melissa Coci On the other, we care deeply about our local communi- Don’t for one second imagine that we don’t love you guys,
Davíð Roach
Grayson Del Faro ty—the people; their values, culture and traditions—and we tourists. A lot of us that have toiled making the Grapevine
Björn Teitsson try to actively support and participate in it. The culture that through the years began our journey as tourists. And most
Mark Asch Agent Fresco
has evolved in Iceland through the ages has value in and of it- of the rest are Reykjavík outsiders, formerly isolated country
Helgi Hrafn Guðmundsson
Paul Fontaine self (much like any regional culture, anywhere in the world). bumpkins who came here for much the same reason as many “Wait For Me”
ÓHlai nDnóarhi Jane Coen What our ancestors have built is inherently important, and of you did – to partake in this wonderful city’s vibrant culture Download your FREE track at www.grapevine.is
Ragnar Egilsson we are all responsible for preserving it; for treating it with and contribute to it to the best of our ability.
Sveinn Birkir Björnsson respect and handling it with care (while of course remain- To go back to the ever-popular “music venue vs. hotel and
Bob Cluness “Wait For Me” is an extremely personal
Kári Tulinius ing susceptible to necessary change, and critical enough to puffin shop debate” it is clear that many of those who criti- ballad for Agent Fresco’s vocalist Arnór
Baphomet eschew the rotten parts, of which there are plenty). cize the current development have not fully registered that
Vera Illugadóttir Dan Arnarson. He wrote the song while
So, while The Reykjavík Grapevine is ostensibly For The a thriving downtown area goes a long way towards ensuring
Editorial Interns: Tourists, it is also no less meant to foster and support local our musicians and artists can make an actual living off their meditating not only on the death of his fa-
Ciarán Daly / [email protected] culture, offering the natives an outside perspective on their strife, that there is a market for what they would sell and cel- ther, but also on the amount of time that
Sam Wright Fairbanks / [email protected]
surroundings while maintaining an active platform for them ebrate. he’s missed spending with his family due
Art Director: to engage in discussion and self-expression. Oh, and we also Meanwhile, many of those who take offence at Iceland- to his career choices. “I’ve been absent
Hörður Kristbjörnsson / [email protected]
Layout: try our best to publicize local music, art and other cultural ers’ concerns about the effects of mass tourism perhaps fail from my loved ones through so many life-
Hrefna Sigurðardóttir offerings—to tell the (English-speaking) world about all that to comprehend that the criticisms voiced are not directed at changing moments,” Arnór explains in the
Contributing Photographers:
Art Bicnick great stuff we’ve got going on, in a language it understands. them, personally, but at the many opportunists who seek to video’s description. “Time hadn’t stood
Anna Domnick --- exploit them for profit. still [...], and realising that was just heart-
Hörður Sveinsson As the abovementioned Keflavík Airport passenger numbers Anyway: There is nothing wrong with tourism. There is
breaking.”
demonstrate, Icelandic tourism has experienced somewhat nothing wrong with profit, and there is nothing wrong with
His heartbreak is palpable, and the
Sales Director: of a BOOM! in the twelve years since we started publishing business. There is, however, something wrong with short-
Aðalsteinn Jörundsson / [email protected] song makes that explicitly clear. It’s full of
Helgi Þór Harðarson / [email protected] our little magazine. This unfettered growth has, inevitably, sighted lunging at an unclear goalpost without considering mystery, with an undeniable sense of pain-
Óskar Freyr Pétursson / [email protected] resulted in clashes between the tourists that we serve and the ramifications.
Distribution manager: ful longing. Arnór's buttery voice just proj-
the community we belong to. Which can put us in a bit of a There are no easy solutions to our current conundrum.
[email protected]
Proofreader: tight spot. Proposed ones, such as seeking to limit the number of travel- ects emotion, and that combined with the
Mark Asch Whether local concerns about things like “the mass exo- lers that are admitted to the country, or changing priorities melodic nature of Agent Fresco makes the
releases:
[email protected] dus of music venues from downtown Reykjavík” are justified or marketing to appeal only to wealthy demographics, seem track just wash over you with a veil of both
Submission inquiries: or not is mostly beside the point. The important part is that mostly elitist and wrong. sadness and beauty. You viscerally feel for
[email protected]
Subscription inquiries: they are an expression of a collective emotion: a clear sign Nope. Our best course of action is to demand that those Arnór, and by god, you’ll most certainly
[phone] / [email protected] that the community which voices them is experiencing dif- we have elected to power—officials on both municipal and wait for him.
General inquiries:
ficulties adjusting to a rapidly changing environment—at- state levels—to take some real steps towards ensuring the
[email protected]
Founders: tempts to understand and contend with what’s going on. preservation and conservation of the culture we love and the Why wait? Go download “Wait For Me”
Hilmar Steinn Grétarsson, Now, tourism is great. It is our lifeblood, and it provides sites we are fond of, while enabling us to welcome anyone
Hörður Kristbjörnsson, RIGHT NOW at www.grapevine.is.
Jón Trausti Sigurðarson, a steady stream of new ideas and outside influence to a once- who would visit with open arms.
Oddur Óskar Kjartansson, isolated society that has often suffered from stasis and lack ---
Valur Gunnarsson
of imagination. Plus, travelling is super fun and everyone Also, thank you, Anna. It’s been a blast.
The Reykjavík Grapevine is published 18 times a year by Fröken
ltd. Monthly from November through April, and fortnightly
from May til October. Nothing in this magazine may be repro-
duced in whole or in part without the written permission of Comic | Lóa Hjálmtýsdóttir
the publishers. The Reykjavík Grapevine is distributed around
Reykjavík, Akureyri, Egilsstaðir, Seyðisfjörður, Borgarnes,
Keflavík, Ísafjörður and at key locations along road #1, and all
major tourist attractions and tourist information centres in the
country.
You may not like it, but at least it's not sponsored (no articles
in the Reykjavík Grapevine are pay-for articles. The opinions
expressed are the writers’ own, not the advertisers’).
August 28 -I sSseupet e1m3b×e 2r0 1105 August 28 -I sSseupet e1m3b×e 2r0 1105
YOUR FREE COPYTHE ESSENTIAL GUIDE TO LIFE, TRAVEL & ENTERTAINMENT IN ICELAND YOUR FREE COPYTHE ESSENTIAL GUIDE TO LIFE, TRAVEL & ENTERTAINMENT IN ICELAND
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On the covers:
Erna Ómarsdóttir & Halldóra Geirharðsdóttir
Photographer:
Saga Sig www.sagasig.com
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SOUR GRAPES AND STUFF
tthhee ttiimmeelleessss
wwaarrmmtthh
This Issue's Most
ooff IIcceellaanndd
Awesome Letter!
Dear team at grapevine, You are right, Iceland isn’t really the present situation is No Big
THAT crowded with tourists, at Deal. However, you can’t blame the
First of all having a source of informa- least compared to what you’ll find locals for getting a little spooked as
m
o tion about ones travel destination is in places like, uh, Times Square or they face the exponential growth
artr.c a relief and an eye opener for all the Piccadilly Circus. of Iceland’s tourism industry on
arn hidden treasures of the host culture and But, have you ever been to Times a daily basis, with all the minor
w. even a country's mindset. Square or Piccadilly Circus? Those growing pains that entails (things
w
w The latter part though leaves me places are vile, disgusting, foul, have changed quite a bit over the
stunned...coming from Germany I putrid, de-humanizing, smelly and past decade, and change always
enjoyed eight days of pure nature trav- vicious (in that exact order). They entails a period of adjustment, and
elling along the ring road. Untouched attract the dredges of humanity; it’s always a little painful, right?).
wild northern sceneries made me fall the worst-of-the-worst suburban At least, it’s better that they’re
in love with Iceland. Then I started dreck from all over the globe, mind- voicing their concerns in public and
reading about the tourist defecation less homunculi that feel implored engaging in healthy discussion, even
issue and how pressing this problem to “travel” because they’ve seen though some of what’s said might
appears to be. Well, I can assure you not people do it on TV (which they obey at times feel misguided. Hopefully,
only that even on the famous ring road and emulate after spending their such a discussion will lead to some
tourist appearance in the last week has entire lives being conditioned in clear policymaking and necessary
proven way below anything considered capitalist internment camps, the legal and regulatory reform.
"massive tourism" in other countries Consumer’s Categorical Impera-
but also I have never seen anybody tive relentlessly hammered into While we appreciate your sugges-
doing the free nature release thing. their soft skulls since they slithered tions and hear what you’re saying,
Nobody. Not even remains of such out of their mother’s toxic wombs), we’ll probably keep reporting on
disrespectful behaviour were sighted. but cannot—even for a fraction stories about defecating tourists
However, it was surprising how few of a second—fathom leaving the and shit like that. Because, c’mon,
public toilets for "all these tourists" are safety of their focus-grouped, they’re news stories about poop!
found along the road, gas stations being target-marketed, SEO-optimized, How amazing is that! Such ample
the only sure point for human relief. user-friendly, branded, copyrighted opportunity to have fun and joke
My advice thus would be: instead of and trademarked corporate run around (did you catch our “POOP
making fun of it or rubbing this issue comfort zones and contend with Ac- NEWS” supplement? What a clas-
all over the tourists face and starting to tual Human Culture; to the point of sic!).
develop apps not solving the issue but their travels consisting of nowt but
acting as watchdog one might consider experiencing their favourite chain ANYWAY, thanks for writing! And
a constructive straight forward way of feeding pens in slightly different cli- if you happen to come up with any
developing easy to use and clean mobile mates than they are accustomed to cool ideas for an “easy to use and
public toilet that also from a design (and even that is rendered meaning- clean mobile public toilet that also
point of view fits into the wonderful less by the now-omnipresent Cen- from a design point of view fits into
Icelandic scenery. tral Air Conditioners), surrounded the wonderful Icelandic scenery,” do
by their favourite corporate mas- pass them along!
Jm2c cots, as their favourite formulaic
shiny, soul-less garbage robot hits Love,
Sebastian Eckert blare from tastefully out-of-sight
speakers. Your Friends At The Reykjavík
Which is to say: ew. Grapevine
Anyway, the Gullfoss parking
Dear Sebastian,
lot is certainly nothing like those PS – get in touch to receive your
places, and this is a good thing for fancy prize for writing such a nice
Thanks for writing, and for your
which we are grateful. You’re right, letter!
kind words.

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The ReTyhkeja Rvíeky Gkjraavpíke vGinraepevine
6
Issue 1 I—ss 2u0e1 113 — 2015
6
News | Citizen journalism
They
For The Sake Of Memory:
Like
An Interview With Arch-Archivist
Lára Hanna Einarsdóttir
Lára!
We reached out to a few people in the
news business to get their thoughts on
Lára Hanna and her work. Here's what
they had to say:
Words by Paul Fontaine
Photos by Internet
"Lára Hanna has the collective memory
of our society on her computer, as well
Lára Hanna Einarsdóttir is not a journalist. In fact, the
has been saying since before 2007 that da. So when I shared this two-year-old as justice and wisdom in everything she
closest she's come to journalism is doing subtitles for Stöð it's neither renewable nor clean. Also, “on this day” post, I basically just added writes."
2, a job she's had since 1987. Yet, she has for a almost a the way former Left-Green chairperson “every word of this is still true.” And she Guðmundur Andri, writer and
Steingrímur J. Sigfússon completely didn't like that. But when I heard what columnist
decade now proved an important media resource for the
changed his position about heavy indus- she called me, I just laughed.
people of Iceland, providing necessary context and infor- try once his party got into power. I com-
mation at crucial times, which corresponds awfully well to piled news clips from 2007, 2009 and You mentioned earlier that
2013 into a single video to point out how Icelandic journalists were do-
the role we ascribe to journalists. She does this by spend-
he's contradicted himself there. ing their digging on politicians
ing untold amounts of time diligently archiving numerous shortly after the crash, but then
Icelandic media sources—primarily TV and radio—which Sounds like you're doing the work not anymore. Why do you think
of a journalist. they stopped? "Lára Hanna is a great example of how
she then digs up and uses to call out politicians and people
The thing is, when a politician says, “Oh, Maybe they don't have the time, or one person can accomplish a lot. She
in power when they contradict themselves or flat-out lie. I never said that,” you can find out if they they aren't given the time. Many of the stands by the environment and human
did or did not. I think that's missing in more experienced ones are gone—ei- rights. There is no one more noble. She
the Icelandic media. The fact-checking, ther sacked or retired. You also have also makes sure to keep track of a wealth
Her devoted archival efforts, it could shows] Silfur Egils, Kastljós and Ísland í digging through video archives, instead to have a pretty good sense of when of news, and reminds us of the context
be argued, amount to the sort of foun- dag, and a lot of others. of taking politicians at their word. The something happened. I've spent three that is missing. Every nation should
dational journalism that few modern media began to do this sort of work a hours sometimes, digging through my have their own Lára Hanna."
reporters can afford time and energy to Why do you do it? little bit shortly after the 2008 crash, but own archives, just trying to find a single Heiða B. Heiðarsdóttir, co-
engage in—and she does it all of her own Memory. I had grown increasingly they hardly do it anymore—or far too sentence someone uttered. But I should founder of Stundin
accord, never earning a króna for it. frustrated with other people's—and my rarely. point out that some news sources—such
We spoke with Lára Hanna to learn own—lack of memory. We forget what a as Kjarninn and Stundin, for example—
more about what drives her. politician said, and they get away with it Strange freak bird are doing more of this, by linking to
when they contradict themselves. Vid- older news.
We forget eos are the most effective medium for Seeing how many people in power
showing people what a politician said, you've called out, and how much So where do you see yourself
How did this all get started? followed by hearing it, and then reading attention it gets on social media, going with all this? You're doing
I started blogging in November 2007, it. To read what someone said a number I guess it's unsurprising that they a journalist's job, or doing the job In my mind, Lára Hanna is first and
to fight against the building of a geo- of years ago is one thing; it's totally dif- would react to you. for other journalists, for free. foremost a powerful social critic and
thermal plant up in Hellisheiði, where ferent when you see them on video say- I suppose not. [Conservative ideo- Could you see yourself joining up journalist. She surpasses most of us in
they were going to effectively destroy ing it. logue] Hannes Hólmsteinn called me with a media outlet? her ability to find, gather and contex-
an absolutely beautiful area in Iceland. a “furðufugl” [an old fashioned word I doubt I could work as a journalist. I'm tualize information. Her work is very
I posted interviews with specialists and Why take politicians at meaning “strange bird”] once. [Laughs] more the columnist type. I also have two commendable, even though some will
all kinds of people who weighed in on And then there's [Progressive MP] Vig- websites, www.larahanna.is and www. inevitably loathe the fact that records
their word?
the environmental impact of the plant dís Hauksdóttir, who recently called me malfrelsi.is. I bought the first one the are being kept of their words and ac-
on the area. Then in March 2008, I be- What is perhaps the biggest a “freak.” day [former Independence Party chair- tions.
lieve, I began to record material off of example of doublespeak or con- person] Davíð Oddsson became editor Helgi Seljan, journalist at
television. tradiction you've uncovered? Yeah, what set her off? of Morgunblaðið. I might set up a blog Kastljós
Oh, that's hard to say! The President I got one of these “on this day” buttons on either site. Facebook disappears. You
What sources do you collect and [Ólafur Ragnar Grímsson] comes to on my Facebook timeline, and one post can't search for things on it. I want other
archive? mind. He's selling Iceland abroad as a was about Vigdís; about how she abuses people to be able to access my posts for
I record all the news. I archive the noon country that uses completely clean and power, saying things she can't back up years to come.
and evening news from RÚV radio and renewable energy, and that's just not with facts, and accusing our national
TV, Stöð 2, [media roundtable discussion true. [Geochemist] Stefán Arnórsson broadcasting of having a political agen-
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8 The Reykjavík Grapevine
Issue 13 — 2015 4
ICELAND DUMMIES
Iceland | Opportunism
So What're These Russian Trade Sanctions
I Keep Hearing About?
Words by Kári Tulinius @Kattullus
Illustration by Lóa Hjálmtýsdóttir
In March of last year, scale and have used that money to get
Iceland joined in inter- influence in politics and purchase media
nationally coordinated companies to propagandise for them.
trade sanctions against
Russia. The principal That's less depressing if you
advocates were the United States and picture them as haddock with top
members of the European Union, but hats and monocles.
many nations are partaking, includ- The ultimate example of that is Mor-
ing Japan, Australia and Montenegro. gunblaðið. After it was taken over by
These sanctions were put in place fol- the fisheries, Davíð Oddsson, former
lowing Russia's military intervention in right-wing Prime Minister, was made
Ukraine. Russia retaliated by imposing editor-in-chief. His signature foreign
trade sanctions of their own, but are policy while in office was supporting the
only now getting to Iceland. US invasion of Iraq, so at least support-
ing Russian military actions in Ukraine
What's taken them so long? would be consistent. He did not go so
The Russian government has been busy far, however, although he heavily criti-
with a severe financial crisis, caused by cized current Foreign Minister Gunnar
the sanctions and low prices for its oil Bragi Sveinsson for advocating for the
and gas exports. Worrying about people trade sanctions. Gunnar Bragi Sveins-
buying fish from Iceland was the least of son's signature foreign policy is support
their concerns. But, one day in late July, for Ukraine against Russia, even visiting
the Russian government noticed an Kiev shortly after announcing Iceland
unticked entry on its to-do list, and an- would join in the trade sanctions.
nounced they would look into sanctions
against a number of countries, includ- Don't tell me he also spoke against
ing Albania, Iceland, Montenegro and the sanctions.
Liechtenstein. The Foreign Minister did, in fact, say
that it was unlikely that Iceland would
That's highly suspicious, as I'm stop supporting sanctions. However, he
pretty sure there's no such place made the caveat that it might need to be
as Liechtenstein. discussed if the EU did not lower tolls on
Even though they should have seen it Icelandic mackerel. He had also talked
coming, Icelandic authorities were sur- about the possibility that the govern-
prised when the Russian Prime Min- The responses came in two types. The No one blamed cheese, right? and that Russians and Icelanders were ment would assist fishing companies
ister announced the sanctions. Some first was the Cheese Hater's Explana- Because what kind of monster old friends that should not let a global financially.
members of Parliament in both ruling tion of Bad Events. It is a three-step pro- hates cheese? squabble spoil the relationship.
parties started agitating for Iceland to cess: The other response was cynical coward- I'm glad someone's looking out for
end its trade sanctions. In the end the 1) A bad thing happens. ice. Leading the charge away from the Good to see businesspeople the interests of wealthy people.
government announced that they were 2) I hate cheese. field of battle was Independence Party speaking for calm, peace and... oh, Traditionally in Iceland, August is the
unanimous in their support for continu- 3) Therefore, cheese is to blame for MP Ásmundur Friðriksson. The day they risked losing money, didn't month for taking it easy, vacationing
ing sanctions. It took three weeks from whatever bad thing happened. after Russia said they were looking into they? abroad or travelling around the coun-
the first news reports out of Russia un- imposing sanctions on Icelandic prod- From 2009 to 2013, the export of Ice- try. Usually there needs to be a volcanic
til the ruling political parties made that Some people's cheese was NATO, even ucts, he started advocating for Iceland landic fish to Russia more than tripled, eruption or a polar bear drifting ashore
announcement. In the meantime, lots of though NATO had little to do with it. to stop supporting sanctions on Russia. from 26 thousand tonnes to 90 thousand to get anyone very excited. However,
politicians and businesspeople said lots Turkey did not join in the sanctions, and Other politicians made similar state- tonnes. Last year, Icelandic fisheries the enormous influence of fishing com-
of stupid things. many countries outside NATO did. Oth- ments. Following closely behind was sold over 140 million Euros worth of fish panies now means that their search for
ers blamed the EU, which at least has Fisheries Iceland (SFS), the trade asso- to Russia. A large amount of money in new buyers for their mackerel has the
How is that different from any something to do with it, but Iceland was ciation of Icelandic fisheries. The chair- a society of three hundred and twenty same news value as a volcano spewing
other three-week period in not coerced into imposing sanctions on man published an opinion piece, argu- thousand people. The fisheries’ owners polar bears.
Iceland? Russia. ing that trade sanctions had no effect are incredibly wealthy on an Icelandic
Licensing and
registration of travel-
related services
The Icelandic Tourist Board issues licences to tour operators and travel agents,
as well as issuing registration to booking services and information centres.
Tour operators and travel agents are required to use a special logo approved
by the Icelandic Tourist Board on all their advertisements and on their Internet
website.
BREAKFAST,
Booking services and information centres are entitled to use a Tourist
Board logo on all their material. The logos below are recognised by the
Icelandic Tourist Board. LUNCH & DINNER
OPEN 7-21
List of licenced Tour
Operators and Travel
Agencies on:
visiticeland.com
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WELCOME
2015
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“Amazing “We finally saw “Amazing “Whale watching -
experience!” whales while whale whale watching Gentle Giant - highly
watching!!” experience!” recommended”
Reviewed 23 August 2015
Reviewed 22 August 2015 Reviewed 22 August 2015 Reviewed 20 August 2015
We did the 2 1/2 hour speedboat
whale watching trip. Amazing! Excellent staff, and a great expe- We took the evening sail (20:00), The whale watching tour was
The friendly captain and owner rience. … and what a great way to end the fun. Gentle Giant staff were po-
Stefan was able to find whales … Within 15 minutes, we had day it was! Our skipper new just lite and professional. We took the
very quickly. We spent a long found a curious humpback that were to go, and really “hunted” earliest trip. It is less crowded but
time right alongside several mas- stayed around us for about 20 those whales (a mother and your chances of finding whales
sive humpback whales. Also got minutes. We also were checked calf blue whales and a couple are slightly lower . We saw few
up close to Dolphins and puffin out by a pod of dolphins, and of humpbacks). We all had the dolphins, few 10 ton whales and
birds. The naturalist onboard later cruised alongside another chance to see them from a really briefly saw a humpback whale.
was a wealth of information. humpback that was heading close distance - you can judge The tour is highly recommended.
The speedboat trip is wonderful slowly out of the bay. At times, yourselves by looking at my Nevertheless - we saw more im-
because it travels at high speed we were only about 10 feet from pictures. pressive whales in Boston
to the best areas. They provide it as it swam all around the boat!
warm overalls and gloves. Maybe A very memorable experience,
bring a ski hat so your ears don’t and a very professional and kind
ggeett ccoolldd.. staff.
150 YEARS OF FAMILY HISTORY IN THE BAY
HÚSAVÍK
The Reykjavík Grapevine
10
Issue 13 — 2015
NEWS
CuPltoulritei c| Ns |i Bghrtig, ihtt's? so great!
IN
BRIEF
Menningarnótt:
By Paul Fontaine
Reykjavík’s
The end of the summer is upon
us, and concluded as per tradition
with the festivities at Culture Night,
which had a reported 120,000 at-
Playground tendees. That’s almost half the coun-
try, so we imagine that any part of
Iceland that wasn’t Reykjavík was a
barren wasteland. In the aftermath
For The People of the massive, car-free festival: much
grumbling about the use of drones
(the non-lethal kind). Apparently sev-
en drones were buzzing over Culture
Night, and there are as yet no safety
regulations for their use, much to the
consternation of the Icelandic Drone
Association. In related news, there is
The new Finn in town an Icelandic Drone Association.
If you were upset about the re-
loves on Culture Night! cent killing of a baby seal at the
Reykjavík Family Park and zoo, Hús-
dýragarðurinn, you weren’t alone. In
fact, even the zoo’s directors believe
it’s a dumb practice, but claim they are
bound by law to put down wild ani-
mals that have been raised by humans.
And they’re actively petitioning the
government to have this law changed.
Not even the cold Many Icelanders, and all baby seals in
Words by Sini Koskenseppä rain that was begin- captivity, eagerly await such changes.
Photos by Roman Gerasymenko ning to pour could
stop the two dozen
You know that dream where you can run a marathon, people who were
were. with all the gathered
then eat dozens of free donuts, then go watch a rock con- And, to sate that already dancing with bikes firing up at the
cert with a bunch of bikers, followed by a performance spiritual hunger for abandon, smiling at same time, in mem- In more serious news, word of
awe and surprise, onlookers. ory of fellow bikers Iceland’s participation in interna-
of traditional Icelandic 50s music in a barber shop, all
one could find ev- that have passed tional sanctions against Russia has
capped with observing a patch of green grass growing erything from a away, followed by finally reached the country, resulting
storefront window rock show on a performance from the first of three in Russia imposing its own embargo
out of the asphalt? Well. In Reykjavík, that’s no dream—
Laugavegur, to free beard trimmings rock bands the bikers had booked for on Icelandic products. As Russia buys
they call it Menningarnótt, and experiencing the city
and whiskey at a barbershop on Ves- their party. a lot of fish from us, there was much
through it feels like opening every window on your ad- turgata. “This is like the diamond of all bike wailing and gnashing of teeth from
The latter seemed to be in great shows in Iceland”, said Halldór Gun- our captains of industry in the field of
vent calendar in one go.
demand, I noted as I approached Ves- narsson, one of the event’s organizers. fish export. However, in an extensive
turgata. Indeed, there were quite a few He seemed thrilled to see so many peo- and pretty blunt interview, Foreign
So, what’s so special about yet another later in the day. bearded fellows queuing for a trim at ple gathered to gawk at the bikes—ask- Minister Gunnar Bragi Sveinsson ba-
Icelandic festival, you ask? Well, Men- the doors of Rakarastofa Ragnars & ing questions, making comments—and sically told the haters to deal with it
ningarnótt (or “Culture Night”) marks Like a box of chocolates Harðar, a 60-year-old Reykjavík es- took special pride in the custom units. and “have a sense of social responsi-
Reykjavík’s anniversary, and is cel- tablishment. “We’ve been packed all “You can’t put a price on these custom bility,” rather than “thinking foremost
ebrated every year on August 18 (or the day,” barbershop employee Sindri Þór made bikes—they are made of the rid- about their own profits.”
following Saturday). Large organiza- The city centre had been transformed Hilmarsson told me. “We’ve staged ers’ heart and soul,” he told me.
tions, like museums and corporations, into a pedestrian area for Menningar- smaller promotional events at differ-
stage and sponsor events on the day, nótt, and walking down towards Klap- ent locations in the past, but never at Come out and play!
but anyone can get creative and regis- parstígur I ran into another kind of the shop. For this Menningarnótt, we
ter their own. You can even apply for a party. An entire intersection had been decided to go all the way and invite our
small grant from the city to help make covered with grass, a huge disco ball guests to enjoy old-school beard trim- The people of Reykjavík have different Things could be getting slightly
yours as great as possible. hanging in the air above. Not even the ming, musicians performing Icelandic feelings and memories of Menningar- better for people who seek asylum in
cold rain that was beginning to pour music from the 40s and 50s and a bit nótt, the event often serving a plethora Iceland. First of all, because the town
Júlíus’s garden could stop the two dozen people who of whiskey. We wanted to spread some of different roles over the years. As one of Akureyri has announced to the
were already dancing with abandon, joy.” souvenir shop saleswoman remarked: government that it wants more
comes alive
smiling at onlookers. “Back when I was a teenager, me and asylum seekers. Iceland’s second city
”The best thing about tonight is Runners and riders my friends used to load our rucksacks up north is requesting to host up to 50
I started my Menningarnótt early. that you can find a surprise behind any with beer, and go out to drink. But of them, noting that their past experi-
Arriving at Vitastígur 17, I could hear corner,” said Rósa, 33, as she danced now, I think I’ll just go home and let ences with asylum seekers have been
faint sounds of vintage Bob Marley on the freshly laid grass with her At 8:45 on the morning of Menningar- others party.” Others tell the same very positive. On a broader level, new
wafting through the air. Stepping young son. “After walking for about nótt, as the day’s events and parties story, of progressing from wanton par- legislation soon to be introduced could
through the garden gates, I found out fifteen minutes, I had already enjoyed were still being prepared around the tying to careful cultural appreciation end the practice of arresting asylum
why. Resident Júlíus Ólafsson was two free coffees, cookies and some city, the Reykjavík Marathon com- to carting their kids between candy- seekers who arrive with false docu-
celebrating Menningarnótt’s 20th an- kleinur.” menced. As I made my way down to floss stalls to not going at all, as they mentation—which is pretty much
niversary by opening his backyard and Speaking of food on Menningar- Lækjargata in the afternoon, the last entered adulthood. what international law requires. Yay
shed for any dub fans that wandered nótt, it was so abundant that you of the tired runners were scrambling For visitors to Reykjavík, however, us! We’re doing the bare minimum!
by. The turntables were in his kitchen, couldn’t get hungry even if you tried. across the finish line, a large crowd of this might be the best way to taste ev-
the sound system in the garden shed. There were pop-up cafés in backyards onlookers applauding them along. erything the city has to offer—food for The national church has been
An audience had yet to form, but the and on side streets, there were twelve After being distracted for a min- both body and soul—in the span of a pretty unhappy lately. They’ve
whole day lay ahead. hundred kleinur on Skólavörðustígur ute by a renaissance-outfitted improv single day. complained they cannot function if
”I’ve never taken part in Mennin- (courtesy of an oil company), there group that walked past, I made my way At least, that’s what I did. the government doesn’t raise their
garnótt before, but this year I decided were chefs frying burgers on Bankas- to the Reykjavík Custom Bike Show at
to bring this garden alive,” Júlíus told træti all day long. Although the queues Naustin, where a few hundred motor-
Continues Over...
me, adding that he was expecting a few were long, there was no question peo- cycles were on display, around 40 of
guest DJs to take turns on his decks ple would be fed. Way too much, as it them custom jobs. The show started