Rappelling: rope descending and ascending skills for climbing, caving, canyoneering, and rigging

187 Pages·2013·85.255 MB·English

by  Gaines, Bob;Clelland, Mike

H
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The ultimate guide to safe descending A FALCON T
O
L Rappelling C
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O GUIDE® IM
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S
G E
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Rope Descending and Ascending Skills for S
I
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Climbing, Caving, Canyoneering, and Rigging
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E In Rappelling you’ll fi nd everything you need to know about Inside you’ll fi nd p Rope Descending and
s descending a rope, including knots, rigging strategies, rappel information on:
s p Ascending Skills for Climbing,
devices, and more. Included is a comprehensive discussion
e • Ropes
n of ropes, slings, and all the hardware used in rappelling.  e Caving, Canyoneering, and
tia Rappelling techniques for the most basic to advanced  • Rappel devices l Rigging
• Slings and webbing l
l g climbing are covered in detail, including multi-pitch rappelling i
e methods and rope management. Single rope fi xed line rappel- • Knots and hitches n
ar ling techniques used in caving, canyoneering, and industrial • Rigging rappel anchors g
f applications are also discussed, along with improvised rope • Rappel methods
o
r ascending techniques (prusiking) and ascending a fi xed rope
• Rope retrieval techniques
e with mechanicalascenders (jumaring). Rappelling accident
v • Rappelling accident analysis
e analysis and prevention is also included, along with a section
r on rappel back-ups and safety checks. • Rappel safety back-ups
y
a   • Working with fi xed lines
d
v • Rope ascending techniques
e
n
t
u
r Bob Gaines has been a professional rock climbing guide since 1983 and is the owner of Verti-
e
: cal Adventures Rock Climbing School, voted the #1 rock climbing school in America by Outside

O magazine. He has worked extensively in the fi lm business as a climbing stunt coordinator and
u
was Sylvester Stallone’s climbing instructor for the movie Cliff hanger. He also doubled for William
t
f Shatner in the movie Star Trek V as Captain Kirk free-soloing on El Capitan in Yosemite. He lives in
i
t Irvine and Joshua Tree, California.
Y
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ur Mi Front cover Bpahcokt oco ovfe Rr opbh oRtaok oerf ara bpepleaylleindg r afrpopmel Paatn Jioc sPhiullaa rT arte eY oNsaetmiointea lN Paatriko nbayl BPoabrk G bayi nGerseg Epperson GfalcUon.cIoDm ES® RE C OMMENDED BY
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FalconGuides ® BOB GAINES
is an imprint of
Globe Pequot Press
H o w t o C l i mB ™ S e r i eS
Rappelling
Rope Descending and Ascending Skills
for Climbing, Caving, Canyoneering, and Rigging
Bob Gaines
Rappelling_i-174_3pp_CS55le.indd 1 7/24/13 10:14 AM
FFAALLCCOONNGGUUIIDDEESS®
Copyright © 2013 Bob Gaines
ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. No part of this book may be reproduced or transmitted in any form by any
means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying and recording, or by any information storage
and retrieval system, except as may be expressly permitted in writing from the publisher. Requests for
permission should be addressed to Globe Pequot Press, Attn: Rights and Permissions Department, PO Box
480, Guilford, CT 06437.
FalconGuides is an imprint of Globe Pequot Press.
Falcon, FalconGuides, and Outfit Your Mind are registered trademarks and How to Climb is a trademark
of Morris Book Publishing, LLC.
Photos © Bob Gaines unless noted otherwise
Illustrations by Mike Clelland
Test and layout design: Casey Shain
Project editor: Julie Marsh
Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data
Gaines, Bob, 1959-
Rappelling : rope descending and ascending skills for climbing, caving, canyoneering, and rigging / Bob
Gaines.
pages cm. — (How to climb series)
ISBN 978-0-7627-8080-8 (pbk.)
1. Rappelling. I. Title.
GV200.19.R34G35 2013
796.522'3—dc23
2013022411
Printed in the United States of America
10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1
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Warning: Climbing and rappelling are dangerous sports. You can
be seriously injured or die. Read the following before you use
this book.
This is an instruction book about rock climbing and rappelling, sports
that are inherently dangerous. Do not depend solely on information from
this book for your personal safety. Your climbing safety depends on your
own judgment based on competent instruction, experience, and a realistic
assessment of your climbing ability.
There is no substitute for personal instruction in rock climbing and
rappelling, and such instruction is widely available. You should engage an
instructor or guide to learn climbing and rappelling safety techniques. If
you misinterpret a concept expressed in this book, you may be killed or
seriously injured as a result of the misunderstanding. Therefore, the infor-
mation provided in this book should be used only to supplement com-
petent personal instruction from a climbing and/or rappelling instructor
or guide. Even after you are proficient in climbing safely, occasional use
of a climbing guide is a safe way to raise your climbing standard and learn
advanced techniques.
There are no warranties, either expressed or implied, that this instruc-
tion book contains accurate and reliable information. There are no
warranties as to fitness for a particular purpose or that this book is mer-
chantable. Your use of this book indicates your assumption of the risk
of death or serious injury as a result of the risks of climbing and rappel-
ling and is an acknowledgment of your own sole responsibility for your
safety in climbing and/or rappelling or in training for climbing and/or
rappelling.
The author and Globe Pequot Press assume no liability for accidents
happening to, or injuries sustained by, readers who engage in the activities
described in this book.
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Contents
Acknowledgments vii
....................................................................................................................................................
Introduction viii
................................................................................................................................................................
Chapter 1. Equipment 1
..............................................................................................................................................
Harnesses 1 Rope Care and Use 9
............................................................ .....................................
Ropes 1 Coiling and Uncoiling Your Rope 9
................................................................... ...............
History 1 Helmets 13
........................................................... .............................................................
Kernmantle Ropes 3 Gloves 14
........................................ ................................................................
UIAA and CE Certification Knife 14
..................................................................
for Dynamic Ropes 5 Slings and Webbing 14
................................. ..........................................
Static and Low-Stretch Ropes 6 Flat Webbing 14
..................... ................................................
Dynamic, Low-Stretch, or Static 8 Tubular Webbing 14
................. .........................................
Diameter and Sheath Percentage 8 Knots for Webbing 16
................ .......................................
Sharp Edge Resistance 8 Spectra and Dyneema Slings 18
................................. ....................
Static Elongation 8 Cord and Cordelettes 20
........................................... .......................................
Dry or Non-Dry 8 Carabiners 22
.......................................... .........................................................
Rope Length 8
..................................................
Chapter 2. Rappel Anchors 27
.................................................................................................................................
Natural Anchors 27 Nuts and Cams 54
............................................... ..........................................
Trees 27 The RENE Principle 56
............................................................. ......................................
Rock Structures 30 Principles of Equalization 56
........................................... ...............................
Rigging Natural Anchors 35 Pre-Equalized System 56
........................... ................................
Rappel Rings and Quick Links 36 Self-Equalizing Systems 58
............... ............................
Artificial Anchors 40 Vectors 60
............................................. ...............................................................
Bolts 40 Notes on Redundancy 63
............................................................. .....................................
Pitons 53
...........................................................
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Chapter 3: Knots 65
........................................................................................................................................................
Loop Knots 65 Triple Fisherman’s Knot 71
....................................................... ............................
Overhand Loop 65 Knots for Joining Two Rappel Ropes 74
........................................... ............
Figure Eight Follow-Through 66 Flat Overhand (aka Euro Death Knot) 75
................... ..
Figure Eight Loop 66 Friction Hitches 77
....................................... ................................................
Bowline 66 Prusik Knot 77
........................................................ .................................................
Bends 71 Klemheist Knot 78
................................................................. ...........................................
Figure Eight Bend 71 Autoblock 81
...................................... .....................................................
Double Fisherman’s Knot 71 Stopper Knot 82
.......................... ....................................................
Chapter 4: Rappelling Methods and Devices 85
...........................................................................................
Rappelling Fundamentals 85 Munter Hitch 91
............................... ..............................................
Non-Mechanical Rappel Methods 87 Carabiner Brake System 93
................. ............................
Fast Roping 87 Standard Rappelling Devices 95
................................................. .........................
Arm Rappel 88 Figure Eight Descender 95
................................................ ..............................
Dulfersitz Rappel 88 Tube Devices 99
....................................... ...............................................
Carabiner Rappels 90 Plate Devices 102
........................................... ............................................
Carabiner Wrap 90
..........................................
Chapter 5: Rappelling Safely 105
...........................................................................................................................
Accidents—Analysis and Prevention 105 Teaching Rappelling 114
.......... .....................................
Rappel Belays 108 Site Selection 114
............................................... ............................................
Rappel Backups 110 Rigging for Contingencies 114
............................................ .......................
Chapter 6: Rappelling Methods for Climbing 121
.......................................................................................
Multipitch Rappels 121 Rope Management 131
....................................... ........................................
Tandem Rappel 129 Tossing the Rope 131
............................................. .....................................
Simul Rappel 130 Retrieving the Rope 131
................................................ .................................
Rappelling with a Heavy Dealing with Stuck Ropes 131
......................
Pack or Haul Bag 130
....................................
Contents v
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Chapter 7: Single Rope Rappel Devices for Fixed Lines 135
..................................................................
Rappelling with an Assisted Passing a Knot 139
..............................................
Braking Device 135 Passing a Knot with a Cordelette 140
......................................... ..........
Petzl Grigri 135 Passing a Knot with a Self-locking
..............................................
Petzl Stop 135 Rappel Device, Mechanical
.................................................
Rappel Rack 136 Ascenders, and Etriers 140
.................................................. ........................
Rope Protectors 138 Vertical Rope Access Techniques 141
.............................................. ..................
Chapter 8: Canyoneering Techniques 147
........................................................................................................
Canyoneering Rappel Devices 147 The Reepschnur 150
..................... .......................................
Canyoneering Rope Retrieval Techniques 147 Rigging for
..
Carabiner and Knot Blocks 147 Canyoneering Contingencies 152
.................... ...................
Chapter 9: Rope Ascending Techniques 155
....................................................................................................
Improvised Rope Ascending: Prusiking 155 Jumaring 159
...... .........................................................
Ascending a Single Fixed Rope 158 The Yosemite Method 163
.................. ..............................
Glossary 165
.......................................................................................................................................................................
Index 169
..............................................................................................................................................................................
About the Author 173
.....................................................................................................................................................
vi Contents
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Acknowledgments
First of all I’d like to thank John Burbidge and Julie Marsh at FalconGuides
for putting it all together. Special thanks to Casey Shain for the excellent
layout design. Thanks to photographers Greg Epperson, Kevin Powell, Todd
Gordon, and Catherine Colella for their beautiful rappelling shots. I’d also like
to thank everyone who graciously posed for pictures: Patty Kline, Tony Sartin,
Terri Condon, Tony Grice, Dave Mayville, Adam Fox, Mike Morretti, Steve
Schwartz, Mark O’Brien, Lynne Leichtfuss, Austin Allred, Nick Giblin, Chris
Idiart, Gabriel Burnworth, Mark Cyr, Ben Shackleford, and Ryan Murphy.
Special thanks to my wife, Yvonne, for her help with the photography.
Moonlight Rappel, Joshua Tree National Park.
Photo by Kevin Powell
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Introduction
rappelling is a controlled descent
down a rope using a friction
braking device. The word rappel is
of French derivation, meaning “to
recall.” Rappelling is most com-
monly used in rock climbing and
mountaineering as an important
technique for descending steep cliffs.
It is typically done on a rope that
is threaded through an anchor; the
rappel is then made on two strands
of rope. After the rappel is com-
pleted, the rope is retrieved by pull-
ing down on one end of the rope.
The history of rappelling dates
back to the 1870s, when French
guides employed the basic dulfersitz,
or body rappel, to descend from the
icy spires of the Chamonix Aiguilles
in the French Alps. Since then
numerous techniques and devices
have been developed specifically for
rappelling, for both recreational and
professional users.
“Sport rappelling” has become
popular among aficionados who
rappel purely for the fun of it—
for the thrill and exhilaration of
bounding safely down a sheer cliff.
Rappelling is also an integral tech-
nique in canyoneering, caving, and
adventure racing. Search and rescue
teams, SWAT teams, firefighters, and
Rappelling off Headstone Rock,
Joshua Tree National Park.
Photo by Catherine Colella
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military special forces all use rappelling techniques Climbing School, based at Joshua Tree, California,
for special situations where access is otherwise since 1983. I’ve taught rappelling to a wide variety
impossible. of clients, from Boy Scouts to military special forces.
Rappelling is also used by rope access techni- I’ve been fortunate to work in the film business
cians for industrial applications (known as vertical as a stunt coordinator, and I’ve coordinated more
rope access) such as inspection, maintenance, and than forty TV commercials featuring climbing and
construction on buildings, bridges, dams, and con- rappelling stunts, training numerous actors and
fined spaces, to reach work areas not accessible by stuntmen in the basics of rappelling. In this book
conventional means. I’ll share what I’ve learned over the years and the
In this book, techniques for all the various rap- insights I’ve gained by working with and teaching
pelling methods are covered, from simple sport others the art of rappelling. I’ll also share some of
rappels on a single rope to professional standards the methods professional instructors use to teach
for fixed line work. Rappel anchors, rigging, rope rappelling, which will give you valuable insight in
retrieval techniques, rappel safety, and use of state- how to progress on your own. If you’ve never done
of-the art rappel devices are discussed. In addi- any rappelling and want to learn the basic skills,
tion to rappelling methods used for descent, rope I encourage you to seek professional instruction,
ascending techniques are covered in some detail, preferably under the tutelage of an AMGA-certified
both for basic self-rescue (where you need to go instructor.
back up the rope or unweight the rappel device) Rappelling is not without risk. According to
and for situations where you are working on a fixed Accidents in North American Mountaineering, a sober-
line and need to go up and down the rope. ing tome published annually that details rock
The longest rappel I’ve ever made was in 1987, climbing and mountaineering accidents, from 1951
during the filming of the movie Star Trek V. I was the to 2010 there were 7,714 reported accidents, and
stunt double for Captain Kirk (William Shatner) in 362 (5 percent) of these involved rappelling. Of
a scene where he decides to free solo El Capitan in these accidents, many proved to be fatal, either via
Yosemite. We had finished all the on-cliff shots, and anchor failure or by simply rappelling off the end
the crew had descended, leaving me alone, high on of the rope. In this book I’ll analyze some of these
the cliff, so the cameraman could get a clean shot of accidents so that we can all learn from these unfor-
just me climbing. After it was a wrap, I had the great tunate mistakes. I’ll focus, in some detail, on the
pleasure of rappelling 1,700 feet without having to most common accidents that have occurred while
worry about retrieving any of the rope. rappelling, with a broader discussion of what can go
I’ve been a professional climbing instructor wrong, what to watch out for, and how to prevent
and the owner/director of Vertical Adventures mishaps by following some standard safeguards.
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