Table Of ContentPatternmaking
for Dress Design
BLOOMSBURY VISUAL ARTS
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First published in Great Britain 2021
Copyright © Pamela Vanderlinde, 2021
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A catalogue record for this book is available from the British Library.
Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data
Names: Vanderlinde, Pamela, author.
Title: Patternmaking for dress design : 9 iconic styles from empire
to cheongsam / Pamela Vanderlinde.
Description: London ; New York : Bloomsbury Visual Arts, 2021. |
Includes bibliographical references and index.
Identifiers: LCCN 2021006010 (print) | LCCN 2021006011 (ebook) | ISBN 9781350094673
(paperback) | ISBN 9781350094697 (pdf) | ISBN 9781350235946 (ebook)
Subjects: LCSH: Dressmaking–Pattern design.
Classification: LCC TT520 .V36 2021 (print) | LCC TT520 (ebook) | DDC 646.4–dc23
LC record available at https://lccn.loc.gov/2021006010
LC ebook record available at https://lccn.loc.gov/2021006011
ISBN: PB: 978-1-3500-9467-3
ePDF: 978-1-3500-9469-7
eBook: 978-1-3502-3594-6
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Patternmaking
for Dress Design
9 Iconic Styles from
Empire to Cheongsam
Pamela Vanderlinde
Contents
Introduction 2
1 The Empire-waist Dress 15 4 The Trapeze Dress 79 7 The Shirtwaist Dress 159
2 The Sheath Dress 37 5 The Wrap Dress 103 8 The Coat Dress 189
3 The Shift Dress 55 6 The Strapless Dress 127 9 The Cheongsam 217
Glossary 244
Bibliography 246
Acknowledgments and Image Credits 248
Preface
As a designer, I have always been intrigued as to why For each project, detailed step-by-step instructions
any specific style endures the test of time. What is it in with corresponding illustrations guide the drafting of
its history that continues to lead designers to use it as the complete pattern. Photographs of each dress are
a form of inspiration? Whether these pieces are used included at both the muslin or toile and final fitting
as a direct reference or just implied, they seem to set stage, along with technical flats to show the design
the theme for entire collections. My fascination led to details. The dresses depicted in this book are meant to be
writing my first text, Patternmaking for Jacket and Coat used as inspiration only, and are not historical replicas.
Design, which focused on the historical relevance and This allows the student/designer to branch out creatively
patternmaking of seven iconic jackets and coats. Feeling and use these projects as reference in future designs.
that there was more to uncover in the history of garment My goal in writing this book was to combine my love
design, I continued my journey into the whys of fashion of fashion, dress design, and its history in a patternmak-
and began to research iconic dresses. ing text that would be approachable, easy to understand,
Patternmaking for Dress Design offers a compre- and hopefully just a bit thought-provoking. Now more
hensive, project-based approach to the patternmaking than ever we need to rethink dress and what it means
techniques for nine iconic dress designs as inspirations to society. My methodology of design is to create pieces
for contemporary fashion. Each chapter is devoted to a that can be worn for a lifetime, a system of sustainability
historically significant design. Each chapter illustrates the that is centuries old. The dresses I chose for this book
history and relevance of one design, and gives examples represent silhouettes that have endured the test of time
of how it has influenced and inspired designers today. and are as relevant today as when they first appeared.
At work in the studio.
v
Introduction:
Block Development
Patterning concepts learned
• Front torso block with side-bust dart
• Front and back contouring principles
“Design is not for philosophy, it’s for life.”
Issey Miyake
Patternmaking book. Drafting the basic blocks can be time consuming
and a difficult task to undertake if patternmaking is
Fundamentals somewhat new to you. Draping is a much more efficient
and accurate method for creating your basic blocks, as
you have a form to work with instead of just measure-
There are three types of patternmaking used in the
ments. Commercial pattern companies also have basic
fashion industry: pattern drafting, draping, and flat
block patterns that you can purchase, which include
patterning. The flat-pattern method relies on the manip-
directions on how to fit and adjust to individual body
ulation of blocks (also called slopers) to develop the
types. These are usually called a “missy’s fitting shell.”
pattern for any given design. Every patternmaker will
This is a good option if you need to make blocks for
have their own set of blocks with which they create these
yourself or others and do not have a dress form that
designs. These blocks will correlate with the sample size
matches the corresponding measurements.
for their intended target market within the industry.
Once you have developed the blocks illustrated
In this section I have included directions to modify
here, you will have not only the patterns necessary to
the basic bodice, torso, and sleeve blocks, along with
develop the nine projects outlined in the book but also
contouring principles that are necessary to pattern the
the patternmaking tools and concepts needed to design
dresses outlined in the book. I have not included the
your own unique creations.
instructions for drafting the basic block set because
those blocks must directly correspond to the dress form.
Having a good set of blocks is critical in flat pattern-
making—without them it would be impossible to fit the AUTHOR TIP
garment accurately at all stages of the design process.
Patternmaking terminology is covered in the
You will also need to develop contouring guide-
Glossary section of the book.
lines for the torso and bodice blocks. Contouring of
A sizing chart for drafting the basic block set
the pattern is necessary so there is no gaping around
has not been included because blocks must
the neckline and armholes when creating new designs.
directly correspond to the dress form. The Bibli-
Contour guidelines are included in this section for the
ography lists patternmaking books that will aid
torso and bodice blocks.
in the development of blocks.
If you do not have a set of basic blocks, you will need
Both imperial and metric measurements are
to draft or drape them according to the measurements
included in the instructions, so there is no need
of the form you are using. There are many patternmak-
for a conversion chart.
ing books that will aid you in the development of these
blocks, and some are listed in the Bibliography of this
Introduction 3
Basic bodice, torso, skirt, and
sleeve blocks
4 Patternmaking for Dress Design
Introduction 5
