Table Of ContentÉléphants	du	Radja	de	Travancor	(Elephants	of	the	Rajah	of	Travancore)	(1848),	lithograph	by	L.H.	de	Rudder
based	on	a	drawing	by	Prince	Aleksandr	Mikhailovich	Saltuikov.
The	Ivory	Throne
Chronicles	of	the	House	of	Travancore
MANU	S.	PILLAI
HarperCollins	Publishers	India
For	Indrani
Contents
Introduction:	The	Story	of	Kerala
Map
Family	Tree
Note	to	the	Reader
1.	A	Painter	Prince
2.	The	Queen	of	the	Kupakas
3.	Three	Consorts
4.	The	Second	Favourite
5.	Her	Highness	the	Maharajah
6.	A	Christian	Minister
7.	Malice	Domestique
8.	Tea	and	Troubles
9.	The	Boudoir	Dewan
10.	Black	Magic
11.	In	Letters	of	Gold
12.	Mother	and	Son
13.	La	Revanche
14.	A	Real	Little	Grande	Dame
15.	A	Palace	Coup
16.	The	Ultimate	Eclipse
17.	The	Villain	of	the	Piece
18.	Rivers	of	Blood
19.	The	Reluctant	Princess
20.	Once	I	Had	a	Kingdom
Epilogue
Notes
Index
Bibliography
Author’s	Note	and	Acknowledgements
Photographic	Inserts
About	the	Book
About	the	Author
Copyright
Introduction:	The	Story	of	Kerala
n	 July	 1497	 when	 Vasco	 da	 Gama	 set	 sail	 for	 India,	 King	 Manuel	 of	 Portugal
I
assorted	a	distinctly	expendable	crew	of	convicts	and	criminals	to	go	with	him.	After
all,	the	prospects	of	this	voyage	succeeding	were	rather	slender	considering	that	no
European	had	ever	advanced	beyond	Africa’s	Cape	of	Good	Hope	before,	let	alone
reached	the	fabled	spice	gardens	of	India.	Da	Gama’s	mirthless	quest	was	essentially	to
navigate	uncharted,	perilous	waters,	and	so	it	seemed	wiser	to	invest	in	men	whose
chances	in	life	were	not	especially	more	inspiring	than	in	death.	Driven	by	formidable
ambition	and	undaunted	spirit,	it	took	da	Gama	ten	whole	months,	full	of	dangerous
adventures	and	gripping	episodes,	to	finally	hit	India’s	shores.	It	was	the	dawn	of	a
great	new	epoch	in	human	history	and	this	pioneer	knew	he	was	standing	at	the	very
brink	of	greatness.	Prudence	and	experience,	however,	dictated	that	in	an	unknown
land	it	was	probably	wiser	not	to	enter	all	at	once.	So	one	of	his	motley	crew	was
selected	to	swim	ashore	and	sense	the	mood	of	the	‘natives’	there	before	the	captain
could	make	his	triumphant,	choreographed	entrance.	And	thus,	ironically,	the	first
modern	European	to	sail	all	the	way	from	the	West	and	to	set	foot	on	Indian	soil	was	a
petty	criminal	from	the	gutters	of	Lisbon.1
For	centuries	Europe	had	been	barred	direct	access	to	the	prosperous	East,	first
politically	when	international	trade	fell	into	Arab	hands	in	the	third	century	after
Christ,	and	then	when	the	emergence	of	Islam	erected	a	religious	obstacle	in	the
seventh.	Fruitless	wars	and	bloodshed	followed,	but	not	since	the	heyday	of	the	Greeks
and	 Romans	 had	 the	 West	 enjoyed	 steady	 contact	 with	 India.	 Spices	 and	 other
oriental	produce	regularly	reached	the	hungry	capitals	of	Europe,	but	so	much	was	the
distance,	cultural	and	geographic,	that	Asia	became	a	sumptuous	cocktail	of	myth	and
legend	 in	 Western	 imagination.	 It	 was	 generally	 accepted	 with	 the	 most	 solemn
conviction,	for	instance,	that	the	biblical	Garden	of	Eden	was	located	in	the	East	and
that	there	thrived	all	sorts	of	absurdly	exotic	creatures	like	unicorns,	men	with	dogs’
heads,	and	supernatural	races	called	‘The	Apple	Smellers’.	Palaces	of	gold	sparkled	in
the	bright	sun,	while	precious	gems	were	believed	to	casually	float	about	India’s	serene
rivers.	 Spotting	 phoenixes,	 talking	 serpents,	 and	 other	 fascinating	 creatures	 was	 a
mundane,	everyday	affair	here,	according	to	even	the	most	serious	authorities	on	the
subject.	 But	 perhaps	 the	 most	 inviting	 of	 all	 these	 splendid	 tales	 was	 that	 lost
somewhere	in	India	was	an	ancient	nation	of	Christians	ruled	by	a	sovereign	whose
name,	it	was	confidently	proclaimed,	was	Prester	John.2
It	was	long	believed	that	there	lived	in	Asia	a	prestre	(priest)	called	John	who,
through	an	eternal	fountain	of	youth,	had	become	the	immortal	emperor	of	many
mystical	lands.	Some	accounts	said	he	was	a	descendant	of	one	of	the	three	Magi	who
visited	the	infant	Jesus,	while	a	more	inventive	version	placed	him	as	foster-father	to
the	terrible	Genghis	Khan.	Either	way,	Prester	John	was	rumoured	to	possess	infinite
riches,	including	a	fabulous	mirror	that	reflected	the	entire	world,	and	a	tremendous
emerald	table	to	entertain	thirty	thousand	select	guests.	Great	sensation	erupted	across
Europe	in	AD	1165,	in	fact,	when	a	mysterious	letter	purportedly	from	the	Prester
himself	appeared	suddenly	in	Rome.	In	this	he	elaborately	gloated	about	commanding
the	loyalties	of	‘horned	men,	one-eyed	men,	men	with	eyes	back	and	front,	centaurs,
fauns,	satyrs,	pygmies,	giants,	cyclops’	and	so	on.	After	vacillating	for	twelve	years,
Pope	Alexander	III	finally	couriered	a	reply,	but	neither	the	messenger	nor	this	letter
were	ever	seen	again.3	Luckily	for	Europe,	the	travels	of	Marco	Polo	in	the	thirteenth
century	and	of	Niccolo	di	Conti	in	the	fifteenth	painted	a	rather	more	rational	picture
of	Asia	on	the	whole,	but	they	were	still	convinced	of	the	presence	of	lost	Christians
there,	egged	on	by	religious	fervour	and	the	commercial	incentives	of	breaching	the
monopolised	spice	trade.
If	 da	 Gama	 and	 his	 men,	 weighed	 down	 by	 centuries	 of	 collective	 European
curiosity	and	imagination,	anticipated	the	legendary	Prester	as	they	stepped	on	to	the
shores	of	Kerala	in	India,	they	were	somewhat	disappointed.	For	when	envoys	of	the
local	king	arrived,	they	came	bearing	summons	from	Manavikrama,	a	Hindu	Rajah
famed	across	the	trading	world	as	the	Zamorin	of	Calicut.4	This	prince	was	the	proud
lord	of	one	of	the	greatest	ports	in	the	world	and	a	cornerstone	of	international	trade;
even	 goods	 from	 the	 Far	 East	 were	 shipped	 to	 Calicut	 first	 before	 the	 Arabs
transported	them	out	to	Persia	and	Europe.	Until	the	Ming	emperors	elected	to	isolate
themselves	 from	 the	 world,	 huge	 Chinese	 junks	 used	 to	 visit	 Calicut	 regularly;
between	1405	and	1430	alone,	for	instance,	the	famed	Admiral	Zheng	He	called	here
no	less	than	seven	times	with	up	to	250	ships	manned	by	28,000	soldiers.5	In	fact,	even
after	the	final	departure	of	the	Chinese,	there	remained	for	some	time	in	Calicut	a
half-Malayali,	half-Chinese	and	Malay	community	called	Chinna	Kribala,	with	one	of
its	star	sailors	a	pirate	called	Chinali.6	The	city	itself	was	an	archetype	of	commercial
prosperity	 and	 medieval	 prominence;	 it	 hosted	 merchants	 and	 goods	 from	 every
worthy	trading	nation	in	its	lively	bazaars,	its	people	were	thriving	and	rich,	and	its
ruler	potent	enough	to	preserve	his	sovereignty	from	more	powerful	forces	on	the
Indian	peninsula.
Da	Gama	and	his	men	received	one	courtesy	audience	from	the	Zamorin	and	they
were	greatly	impressed	by	the	assured	opulence	of	his	court.	But	when	they	requested
an	official	business	discussion,	they	were	informed	of	the	local	custom	of	furnishing
presents	to	the	ruler	first.	Da	Gama	confidently	produced	‘twelve	pieces	of	striped
cloth,	four	scarlet	hoods,	six	hats,	four	strings	of	coral,	a	case	of	six	wash-hand	basins,	a
case	of	sugar,	two	casks	of	oil,	and	two	of	honey’	for	submission,	only	to	be	jeered	into
shame.	For	Manavikrama’s	men	burst	out	laughing,	pointing	out	that	even	the	poorest
Arab	merchants	knew	that	nothing	less	than	pure	gold	was	admissible	at	court.	Da
Gama	tried	to	make	up	for	the	embarrassment	by	projecting	himself	as	an	ambassador
and	not	a	mere	merchant,	but	the	Zamorin’s	aides	were	not	convinced.	They	bluntly
told	him	that	if	the	King	of	Portugal	could	afford	only	third-rate	trinkets	as	presents,
the	mighty	Zamorin	had	no	interest	whatever	in	initiating	any	diplomatic	dealings	on
a	basis	of	equality	with	him.7	Manavikrama,	it	was	obvious,	could	not	care	less	about
an	obscure	King	Manuel	in	an	even	more	obscure	kingdom	called	Portugal,	and	with	a
pompous	flourish	of	royal	hauteur,	he	brushed	aside	da	Gama’s	lofty	ambassadorial
claims.
The	Zamorin	was	not	unreasonable,	however.	He	clarified	that	the	Portuguese
were	welcome	to	trade	like	ordinary	merchants	in	the	bazaar	if	they	so	desired,	even	if
no	 special	 treatment	 was	 forthcoming.	 Da	 Gama,	 though	 livid	 at	 his	 less-than-
charming	reception,	had	no	option	but	to	comply,	having	come	all	the	way	and	being
too	hopelessly	outnumbered	to	make	a	military	statement	to	the	contrary.	And	so	his
men	set	up	shop	in	Calicut,	under	the	watchful	eyes	of	the	Arabs,	peddling	goods	they
had	brought	from	Europe;	goods,	they	quickly	realised,	nobody	really	wanted	here	in
the	East.	The	hostility	of	the	Arabs	did	not	help	either;	for	they,	recognising	a	threat
to	their	commercial	preponderance,	initiated	a	policy	of	slander,	painting	him	and	his
men	as	loathsome,	untrustworthy	pirates.	When	complaints	about	this	were	made	to
the	Zamorin,	they	were	met	with	yawning	disdain,	not	least	because	the	Portuguese
had	precious	little	to	contribute	to	business	or	to	the	royal	coffers.	The	first	European
trade	mission,	thus,	was	a	resounding	flop	as	far	as	the	Indians	were	concerned,	and
when	da	Gama’s	fleet	departed	Calicut	three	months	later,	they	left	behind	a	distinctly
unflattering	impression	on	the	locals.8
In	Europe,	however,	the	expedition	was	received	as	a	great	success,	as	it	had	finally
broken	the	thousand-year	Arab	monopoly,	and	also	because	the	few	goods	da	Gama
had	successfully	bartered	in	Calicut	fetched	sixty	times	their	price	in	Western	markets.
In	March	1500,	therefore,	King	Manuel	assembled	a	second	armada	to	go	to	India.
This	time	they	were	better	prepared	and	more	confident,	led	by	the	redoubtable	Pedro
Alvarez	Cabral.	It	also	helped	that	by	the	time	they	arrived	in	Calicut,	the	forbidding
Manavikrama	 had	 died	 and	 a	 younger,	 more	 amenable	 prince	 was	 parked	 on	 the
throne.	 The	 Portuguese	 got	 off	 to	 a	 more	 promising	 start,	 as	 a	 result.	 But	 their
enthusiasm	waned	when	they	realised	that	demand	for	European	goods	continued	to
be	feeble	at	best.	In	the	spice	auctions	too,	wealthy	Arabs	consistently	outbid	them	and
Cabral’s	ships	were	not	filling	up	as	expected.	As	the	weeks	passed	he	began	to	grow
impatient	and	belligerent.	The	policy	of	defamation	unleashed	by	the	Arabs	incensed
him,	and	he	suspected	they	were	colluding	with	local	suppliers	to	prevent	the	sale	of
spices	to	the	Portuguese.	At	one	point,	then,	Cabral	sacked	an	Arab	vessel,	provoking
retaliation	 from	 Muslim	 merchants	 who	 burned	 down	 his	 warehouse	 and	 killed
between	fifty	and	seventy	Portuguese	men.	Cabral	took	to	the	safety	of	the	sea	and
looted	every	ship	he	could	find	and,	in	what	was	meant	as	a	lesson	to	the	Zamorin,
bombarded	Calicut	from	afar	for	an	entire	day,	killing	nearly	600	people.
Cabral	had	realised	by	now	that	there	was	no	way	he	could	trade	in	this	city	so	long
as	the	Arabs	held	sway.	He	decided,	in	what	was	a	calculated	move,	therefore,	to	sail
south	into	an	alternative	harbour	and	try	his	luck	there.	During	his	months	in	Kerala,
he	had	learnt	a	fair	deal	about	regional	politics	and	identified	a	very	useful	chink	in	the
Zamorin’s	armour.	And	this	was	the	port	of	Cochin	in	the	south,	held	by	a	Rajah
called	Unni	Goda	Varma.	This	prince	was	a	dynastic	descendant	of	the	Chera	kings	of
yore	and	possessed	a	pedigree	and	caste	superior	to	that	of	the	haughty	Zamorin.	Yet
he	had	been	enslaved	by	Calicut:	he	had	to	pay	tribute;	all	his	pepper	had	to	be
submitted	to	his	overlord;	he	was	not	allowed	to	mint	currency;	and	perhaps	most
humiliatingly,	the	scion	of	the	Cheras	was	prohibited	from	tiling	the	roof	of	his	own
palace,	forced	to	thatch	it	instead,	like	the	hut	of	a	common	peasant.9	Cochin	resented
this	debasing	treatment	imposed	by	the	Zamorin	and	so,	when	Cabral’s	ships	appeared
by	 his	 shores,	 the	 Rajah	 received	 them	 with	 open	 arms,	 magnanimously	 granting
several	trade	privileges	and	much	pepper.	He	hoped,	as	Cabral	knew	and	exploited,
that	with	the	aid	of	the	Portuguese,	he	would	finally	be	able	to	throw	off	Calicut’s
yoke	and	regain	his	independence	and	dignity.
It	was	a	fateful	juncture	in	the	history	of	Kerala.	Essentially,	at	this	moment,	Cabral
had	declared	war	between	Portugal	and	Calicut,	and	Unni	Goda	Varma	had	rebelled
against	his	feudal	master	after	generations	of	servitude.	The	Zamorin,	when	he	heard
of	these	proceedings,	was	furious.	He	resolved	not	only	to	cut	down	the	arrogant
foreigners,	whose	only	advantage	was	a	superiority	of	arms	and	better	navigational
skill,	 but	 also	 to	 punish	 his	 audacious	 tributary.	 An	 enormous	 army	 started
southwards	while	a	massive	fleet	of	eighty	ships	sailed	out	of	Calicut	to	confront	the
Portuguese.	Unni	Goda	Varma,	incidentally,	was	prepared	for	a	showdown	and	began
to	gear	up	for	war.	Cabral,	however,	knew	that	for	all	his	bravado	and	grandstanding,
the	Portuguese	were	no	match	for	the	Zamorin	and	would	only	be	utterly	routed	if
they	 engaged	 in	 a	 full-fledged	 military	 conflict.	 To	 the	 great	 chagrin	 and
Description:In 1498, when Vasco da Gama set foot in Kerala looking for Christians and spices, he unleashed a wave of political fury that would topple local powers like a house of cards. The cosmopolitan fabric of a vibrant trading society with its Jewish and Arab merchants, Chinese pirate heroes and masterful H