Financial Times How to Spend It - June 4, 2022

58 Pages·2022·22 MB·English

4JUNE
2022
PERFECTLY
TAILORED
How to STYLE it this SUMMER
PLUS
EATING WITH THE WINDSORS – POWER DRINKING IN WASHINGTON DC – THE UNSTOPPABLE DOROTHY BOHM

M
O
C
.
R
O
I
D
1932 COLLECTION
THE STARS ALIGNED
In 1932, Gabrielle Chanel created Bijoux de Diamants, the first High Jewellery collection in history.
Inspiredbytheallureofthestars,itwasdesignedtobewornfreelyinabrand-newway.Mademoiselle
then turned her concept of jewellery in motion – part of her vision for women – into a manifesto.
In 2022, CHANEL High Jewellery celebrates this celestial revolution with the launch of the 1932
Collection, based on the perpetual motion of the stars and tailored to the natural movements of
the body. In the same spirit, CHANEL asked an author known for his reflections on movement
to write a manifesto for the new collection.
After winding around from the nape of the neck, the string of diamonds suddenly bursts
into a shooting star, trailed by a cascade of sparks leading to a sapphire that fits perfectly into
the negative space of a crescent moon of diamonds. A fragmented nimbus then explodes
around a profusion of carats pulsating at the neckline. A line of precious stones rises and falls
with the rhythm of the breath, trapping the gaze in their bewitching depths. Beneath this
blue eclipse, a string of crystals leads the eye toward the heart, where a diamond sun blazes,
itsearly-morningraysoscillatingandsparklingwiththewearer’smovements.Inthistheatreof
preciousstones,celestialbodiesundulateontheskin’s“MilkyWay,”sketchingnewlandscapes
eachtimetheheadmovesortilts.Likethenecklace,thecollectionisaseriesofcelestialbodies
journeying across the skin and enhancing each movement of the body as the planets travel
past twinkling stars. The beauty of the world lies in this radiance. The glow of the stones
is tangible, sculpted into the diamond, itself becoming a jewel, liberated, as if the aura could
beremovedandwornasabrooch.Whatwasaparurehasbecomeajewel,astonecutinstone,
made even more precious by what has been removed from it. From the depths of the Earth
to the Cosmos, there is little light, but it sometimes burns beneath the eyelids in insistent
lines.Thegemsbegintodancewithinus:diamonds,bluediamonds,rubies,yellowdiamonds,
sapphiresandringsrunningalongthefingers,orbiting,spillingtheirbrillianceoverthehand.
Bracelets and diamonds give way to a streaking comet on the skin, a virtuoso play of light
and the ever-changing gestures of a woman who is suddenly the centre of the universe.
Hugo Lindenberg
m
THE NEW 1932 COLLECTION CELEBRATES THE 90TH ANNIVERSARY
o
c
OF THE BIJOUX DE DIAMANTS COLLECTION, CREATED IN 1932 BY GABRIELLE CHANEL. l.
e
n
a
TRANSFORMABLE ALLURE CÉLESTE NECKLACE IN WHITE GOLD AND DIAMONDS, WITH A 55.55-CARAT OVAL-CUT SAPPHIRE. h
c

CONTENTS
36
4JUNE2022
REGULARS THEFIX
13 23
OPENINGSHOT NOPANE,NOGAIN
Flowerphotography SimondeBurtonis
blossomsasanartform enlightenedbythereturn
oftheglasshouse
17
EDITOR’SLETTER
26
JoEllisononwhywe’re CHINUP
becomingHTSI JoEllisontriesan
alternativefacelift
19
THEAESTHETE
26
GalleristTimothyTaylor SMILESBETTER
talkstaste Celebratethesmiley’s50th
withfeelgoodjewellery.
35
THECAUSE ByRosannaDodds
InMexico,mezcalwitha
27
feministedgeisthriving. PUTONA
ByRosannaDodds HAPPYFACE
Mastertheartof
55
COLLECTING mood-boostingmake-up,
Porsche’srule-breaking saysRosannaDodds
968CSisadriver’sdream,
31
saysIainMacauley CREATIVEFORCE
17stylishbuysfrom
56
TECHNOPOLIS Ukrainiandesigners.
Fivegadgetstoraise ByAylinBayhan
yourdrinkinggame.
32
ByJamieWaters PUSHTHE
BOATHOUT
57
TRAVELISTA GraceCookchecksinto
MariaShollenbarger’s agloriouslyout-of-time
summerguidetowhere Highlandhotel
togetawayinGreece
33
SNACKATTACK
59
HOWTOHOSTIT Theindiebrandsputting
LailaGoharcooksa thefunbackintofood.
feastoffavabeans ByGraceCook
61
DRINK
AliceLascellesvisits
WashingtonDC’smost
USERS, powerfulwaterholes
O
0,ANDWOOLTRNECKTIE,£125 b6Athej1eehsFirhnoOdPyOaatlthDakeliastcycheloennoekssswinith
NISILKCOAT,£4,32ARELLOSILKSATIN 6TINo2.m..HAPOCarWCkReTrAOBoSwPlEesNDIT 62 FEATURES
OC
HIONIMAGE:BRIYANTHONYVAC HshheaarirroeslstdytlhhisoetmbCeehstaotrwhloantntegoMuetnssianh 31 3HPh6oowtCotOogrOsatLpyhlOeyFibtTythHBiisEbsiWuBmoIrLmtDhewr.ick.
WIAH.FASAURENTB SMtoyldinelg,PbyarJkaemrVesaVnaNleoroi.rd
AL
UN-TAINT 44 THEUNSTOPPABLE 26
DS
WICK.CARLOSITASHIRT,£850. 420JU22NE OPSBthINByolIitTnBoHgOgErbRaCyTpHOJhAWVyMEbICREyS:KVALERI DAptohsOAosRtihomOegeTrteuaHFprnaYhrseBrr9eOgl8lr,HatnhMtestaranilabuladzieinngce
ORTHTAFFE PARKERVANNOORDwears
OGRAPHS:BIBIBVALENTINOSILK HPoTwEtAoRSTIYFLLEEOittChRisTSEUMLDMYER ££HaP26OnE9,dD7A00c..M0ToS,HAttAaYEoInNNnRdTEOtcrRLoWoAluttiUnwsoeeRonnrEosNs,jlahbjTaicorBkctt,eYkhtet, 4Cphea8arlsessStoatEenuTtodhfTrahLINeEornlGlhdisaTonsnHhdhEomowTamsdOeeo.N-ffBpEyathiAneitmcbaerleamnFidanragrtell.
PHOT£640. PLUSEATINGWITHTHEWINDSORS–POWERDRINKINGINWASHINGTONDC–THEUNSTOPPABLEDOROTHYBOHM AstNeeTlHnOecNkYlaVcAeC,£C4A8R5ELLO PhotographybyMartinMorrell
11
Allproductsinthemagazineareavailabletobuyfromeachbrand’swebsiteorstore,unlessotherwisestated FT.COM/HTSI

OPENING SHOT
STEM
SUBJECTS
Contemporaryflowerphotos
flourishinanewbook
Traditionallythesubjectofstill
lifepaintings,theflowerhasa
richhistoryinartphotography
too,fromFoxTalbot’sghostly
floralphotogramsofthe1830s
toLeeFriedlander’sthorny
monochromestalksofthe
1990s.Anewbook,thesecond
instalmentofaseriesstartedin
1991,surveyscontemporary
contributionstothegenre.
ThiseditionincludesRobert
Mapplethorpe’ssuggestivestems
ofthe1980s,MaisieCousins’
super-enlargedstudiesofaslimy,
decayingbouquet,andPedro
Almodóvar’scharacteristically
chromaticstilllifes,which
juxtaposewiltingflowersagainst
sleekjewel-tonedvases–afurther
exampleofthefilmmaker’s
fascinationwithageing.AsDanaé
Panchaudwritesinheressay,this
compendiumshowsthat“the
allegedfixedsymbolicmeanings
offlowers,peddledbykeen
Victorianmarketersandbased
onaverynarrowrangeof
examples,areconsistentlybeing
disprovedbynew,andoften
unexpected,allegoriesand
symbols”.BAYASIMONS
FloraPhotographica:
MasterworksofContemporary
FlowerPhotographybyWilliam
Left:astilllifeofa
AEwingandDanaéPanchaud
dandelionbyPedro
(Thames&Hudson,£45) Almodóvar
CONTRIBUTORS
R
A
V
Ó
D
O
M
AL
O
R
D
PE
G.
R
BE
D
N
A
S
N
A
OH CARLOSIDUN-TAWIAH LYDIAGOLDBLATT MARTINMORRELL JAMESVALERI
J
NTE. TheGhanaianphotographerandfilmmaker “Ihaveworkedinphotographyforabout Afterbeingintroducedtoblack-and-white TheBritish-Italianstylistandfashionconsultant
A
M exploresthe“ever-changinglandscapesof 15years,exploringitscapacityforpoetic camerafilmforthefirsttimein1994,Martin co-foundedthearts,cultureandfashion
A
UST blacklifeacrosstheAfricancontinentand expression,”saysGoldblatt,whosecurrent switchedfromtrainingtobeanarchitectto magazineDocumentJournalinNewYork
B
O diaspora”.HeshotHowToSpendItinAccra projectFugueisfocusedaroundmothering, photography:hisworkspansfashion,show beforemovingtoTuscanywhereheopeneda
D
UN –whereheisbased–withCharlotteMensah, intimacyanddistance.Sheshotthe97-year- businessandinteriors.Forthisissueheshot B&B.HeisnowfashiondirectoroftheFrench
C
A ahairartistandfounderofMankettiHairOil. oldphotographerDorothyBohminher theLondonhomeofCassandraEllis,owner magazineExhibitionandtravelstheworldas
F
HS: “Thereisalwayssomethingnewtoappreciate Londonhome,afewstreetsawayfromwhere oftheindependentpaintcompanyAtelier afreelancestylist.Forthisweek’smenswear
P
RA inthecapital,butphotographingCharlotte Goldblattwasborn.“Dorothy’scontribution Ellis.“Theapartmenthasbeenthoughtfully shoothewas,hesays,“inspiredbythe
G
O aswewalkedthroughthecityregenerated tophotographyintheUKisastoundingandI curatedwithwarmthandsoul.Itisdefinitely campaignsofArmaniinthe’80sand’90s
OT
H thatpulseinaspecialway.” wasstruckbyhercompellingindependence.” somewhereI’dlovetolive,”hesays. thatweinterpretedinacontemporaryway.”
P
13
FT.COM/HTSI