Winter 2005 - VillageSoup

84 Pages·2009·24.97 MB·English

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HISTORY (cid:2) LITERATURE (cid:2) ART (cid:2) MUSIC (cid:2) PHOTOGRAPHY (cid:2) ARCHITECTURE (cid:2) NATURE (cid:2) THEATRE (cid:2) POETRY
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Winter 2005 • FREE
Delaware’s Amish Community - Facing the Pressure of Change
Asian Oysters: Hope for a Sagging Shellfish Industry in Delmarva’s Bays?
Proposal for Two More Tunnels for Bridge-Tunnel Raises Questions
Lewes, Delaware Preparing to Celebrate Its 375th Anniversary
Smith Island Cooperative Helping Crabbing Economy Survive

Delmarva Quarterly Winter 2005 • 1
VOLUME 4 NO. 3 WINTER 2005
Contents
4PUBLISHER’SLETTER and CONTRIBUTORS
6 PHOTOGRAPHY and CULTURE •KEVIN FLEMING and the AMISH
8REPORTS
John Smith’s exploring shallop - Nichole Vattimos
Art and whimsey in Virginia - Grace Wakefield
Bay to Ocean Writers’ Conference - Ann E. Dorbin
14CULTURE • DELAWARE’S FADING AMISH
Escalating land prices and rising population threaten to push these Old Order Amish off of
Delmarva. By Janel Atlas - Photography by Kevin Fleming
20ISSUES • CHESAPEAKE BAY BRIDGE-TUNNEL
With two more tunnels now in the planning stages, this amazing engineering feat - one
of the wonders of the world - continues to fulfill its mission By Lynn L. Remly
24ARCHITECTURE• LONGWOOD REOPENS ITS EAST CONSERVATORY
After three years of renovations and millions of dollars, one of the world’s most famous
indoor gardens reopens, featuring many design innovations. By Janel Atlas
27 GEOGRAPHY• Major highways and public open spaces of Delmarva.
28 HUMOR• CHRIS WILDT • ACUTE DISASTER FATIGUE
30CELEBRATIONS • LEWES READIES FOR ITS 375TH ANNIVERSARY
Settled in 1631 by the Dutch, this town’s history shines new light on the pervasive
influence by the European lowlanders on our nation’s formation. By Amy Reardon
34GEOLOGY • JEWELS UNDER FOOT
A gemologist takes a close-up look at some of the precious minerals that make up the
finely-ground sands of our beaches. By Diana Jarrett
36 POETRY • A SAMPLING FROM DELMARVA POETS
39 ENTERPRISE • SMITH ISLAND CONNECTION
Two women create a distribution network to help preserve the future of the Smith Island
Cooperative. Crabmeat and eight layer cakes sell like crazy. By Ann E. Dorbin
42 ARCHIVES PHOTOGRAPHS • CAPE HENLOPEN LIGHTHOUSE BEFORE THE FALL
44 LITERATURE • THE WREATHMAKERS
A short story - By H.A. Maxson
50 RESOURCES • ASIAN OYSTER - THE CHESAPEAKE’S SALVATION?
Maryland and Virginia managers say this new species could reinvigorate an important
Chesapeake fishery but Delaware and New Jersey wonder. By Chuck Epifanio
54PARKS AND REFUGES • EASTERN NECK NATIONAL WILDLIFE REFUGE
This 2,500 acre refuge on the upper peninsula hosts tundra swans. By Lynn L. Remly
56 HISTORY • WILMINGTON WHALING COMPANY
Many privileged young men went to sea green to seek their fortunes in whale oil but
were seasoned sailors by the time they rounded Cape Horn. By Steve Renzi
60 FOOD • AWARD-WINNING CRAB CAKES AND CLAM CHOWDER
Amateur and professional cooks and chefs gather at University of Delaware’s Coast Day
in Lewes to claim bragging rights for two of the region’s most popular dishes.
63 BOOKS • MARAH COLEMAN
A review of some of the latest selections with an emphasis this quarter
on books that define Delmarva as our nation’s crucible.
70EVENTS • December, January and February on the Delmarva Peninsula
80STRICTLY DELMARVA • PLACE NAMES AND THEIR ORIGIN
2 • Delmarva Quarterly Winter 2005
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Delmarva Quarterly Winter 2005 • 3
Longer night hours of winter give us time to reflect
Winter’s coming now to Delmarva. and Delaware and they will have a
The snow geese and Canadas and profoundly positive effect on the qual-
ducks and swans have taken up win- ity of life for our people and environ-
ter residence in our rivers and bays ment in the generations ahead.
and fields. We hear them moving in Meanwhile we see the rapid march of
on cold fronts, sometimes when it’s change continuing around us.
dark and the front has passed and the This edition of Delmarva Quarterly
wind has clocked around to the north- includes a number of articles that
west sweeping clean the light of the dance with these issues. An article by
stars. It’s magical to see Vs of snow Janel Atlas about pressures on the
geese passing overhead among the Amish community in Delaware’s Kent
stars on clear nights, their white feath- County gives us a strong sense of
ers reflecting light from below. KEVIN FLEMING PHOTOGRAPH these people tied so firmly to the land
More hours of night give us more time to reflect on what efforts for and their traditions. Reading the article, it’s easy to project their grad-
the long-term benefit of Delmarva will bear the most fruit when we’re ual disappearance from Delmarva. Young people want farms of their
burning our daylight hours. own but land on Delmarva has grown too expensive. Those young peo-
Land preservation efforts continue to be at the top of the list when it ple move to areas well suited for agriculture but away from the price
comes to action that goes straight to the bottom line of maintaining tra- pressures of encroaching urbanism. Ultimately, the draw of the cries
ditional Delmarva values. As this edition of Delmarva Quarterly is and joyful laughter of grandchildren will also pull the older folks away.
going to press, the Eastern Shore Land Conservancy headquartered in Delaware’s aggressive agland preservation program is helping, but
Queen Anne’s County, Maryland has just announced the successful pur- probably not fast enough.
chase of the 342-acre Bloomfield Farm parcel along Route 213, one of Another article, by Chuck Epifanio on the prospects of the Asian oys-
Maryland’s officially Chesapeake Country Scenic Byways. With the ter as a salvation for the Chesapeake oyster industry, gives us an insight
purchase the Conservancy will guarantee the farm remains as a work- as to where this industry has been and where it may be going. And
ing farm, growing crops instead of houses. It will be part of a network one more, by Lynn Remly, tells as about the impact of one of the world’s
of preserved open spaces that will ensure that our migrating waterfowl, great engineering wonders – the Chesapeake Bay Bridge-Tunnel.
so much of our Delmarva culture and heritage, will continue have a The bottom line is that we continue to recognize Delmarva as one of
winter home for feeding and resting. the world’s great places to live and that there are some enlightened
Other similar efforts and successes are being reported in Virginia efforts to help keep it that way. – Dennis Forney, publisher
COVER PAINTING • CAROL DYER • ACRYLIC • SEASIDE COUNTRY CHRISTMAS
This artist’s first paintings and prints focused on scenes and land- quility of the seashore. “Many of the structures in my scenes no longer
marks from the Delmarva Peninsula. The works tried to capture the fam- stand, due to time, hurricanes, and the unending wave of develop-
ily holidays that were enjoyed by residents of Washington, Baltimore, ment.” Dyer has exhibited at Rehoboth Art League. For more infor-
and Philadelphia, who journeyed by rail and coach to enjoy the tran- mation on the artist and her American folk art see caroldyerart.com.
In This Issue 55, and Delmarva Places p. 80, is a freelance writer in 44, is a student at University of Delaware.
the Washington metro area, having published hundreds Chuck Epifanio, Oysters p. 51, is a professor at
Nichole Vattimos, John Smith p. 8, is a student in of articles in magazines and newspapers. University of Delaware’s Graduate College of Marine
the writing program at Washington College in Chris Wildt, Humor p. 28, is a freelance cartoonist Studies in Lewes, Del.
Chestertown. and graphic artist living in Lewes, Delaware. Steve Renzi,Whaling p. 57, is a freelance author
Ann Dorbin, Writers Conference p. 11 and Smith Amy Reardon, Lewes p. 30, is a freelance writer who writes from his home in New Castle County, Del.
Island Cooperative p. 39, is a freelance writer, photog- who lives in Gaithersburg, Md. Marah Coleman, Books p. 63, is a writer and
rapher and local businesswoman in Easton, Maryland. Diana Jarrett, Jewels p. 35, is a gemologist and book dealer in Delaware and Florida.
Grace Wakefield, Art and Whimsey p. 10, is a appraiser who lives part time in Onancock, Va. William Amelia,Classic Books p. 66, writes from
freelance writer in Chincoteague, Virginia, who writes H.A. Maxson, Wreathmakers p. 45, is the author his home in Dagsboro, Del.
about artists and gardens. of six books including a novel, poetry and a critical study George Merrill, Rain Whispers p. 69, is an
Janel Atlas,Amish p. 15 and Longwood p. 25, is of Robert Frost’s sonnets. He is vice president of Bay Episcopal priest and psychotherapist, retired and living
a commercial freelance writer in Newark, Delaware. Oaks Ltd. publishers in Milford, Del. in St. Michaels, Maryland. He is a published author,
Lynn Remly, Bridge-Tunnel p. 21, Eastern Neck p. Tyler Bryan, photographs with Wreathmaker p. essayist and photographer
Delmarva Quarterly is a publication of Cape Gazette Ltd., P.O. Box 213, Lewes, Delaware 19958. We can be reached by telephone at 302-
645-7700. Our web address is capegazette.com. Cape Gazette Ltd. also publishes Beach Paper and many other fine publications. To sub-
scribe to Delmarva Quarterly, send your name and address and $12 - $18 for two years - to Delmarva Quarterly, P.O. Box 213, Lewes, DE
19958. Submissions, letters and advertising welcome. We pay for all items published.Email: [email protected]
4 • Delmarva Quarterly Winter 2005
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Delmarva Quarterly Winter 2005 • 5
DELMARVA PHOTOGRAPHY AND CULTURE WINTER 2005
AMISH BOYS • KEVIN FLEMING - Kevin Fleming has covered the world as a photographer for National
Geographic but his career began in Kent County, Delaware in the heart of "Amish country." "I grew up with
my Amish neighbors and sold eggs door-to-door from a buggy," he said. Kevin Fleming has more than a
dozen books published including The Heart of America which was honored in May 2005 by Reader's Digest
as one of "America's 100 Best." He joins in this edition with Newark, Del. writer Janel Atlas for an examina-
tion of pressures affecting Delaware’s Amish, page 14.
A Brief History of the Amish The next two hundred years witnessed massive persecution and
executions of Anabaptists as heretics. Many Anabaptists fled their
“The Amish trace their religious heritage to the Swiss Anabaptists homes in Switzerland, taking their faith with them north into
of 16th century Europe, who emerged in the wake of the Protestant Germany, the Netherlands, and eventually Russia and the United
Reformation,” according to Donald B. Kraybill, author of The Riddle States.
of Amish Culture. In a secret meeting in 1525, Protestant dissidents The Amish started migrating to the U.S. well before the
in Switzerland “illegally rebaptized one another,” cementing their Revolutionary War; the first substantial Amish group landed in
division from the Catholic Church, which condones infant baptism. Philadelphia on 8 October 1737.
This stance taken by the Anabaptists (which means “re-baptiz- The Old Order Amish are among the most conservative descen-
ers”) represented a split from the authority of the Catholic Church, dants of the 16th-century Anabaptists. According to the Mennonite
which had dominated state and local society for centuries. The Historical Society of Canada (MHSC), members of the Old Order
Amish share this Anabaptist heritage with Mennonites and are distinguished from the Amish Mennonites, Beachy Amish, and
Brethren. the New Order Amish by their strict adherence to the use of horses
“The Amish subscribe to the basic Christian doctrines - the divin- on the farm and as a source of transportation; refusal to allow elec-
ity of Christ, heaven and hell, the inspiration of Scripture, and the tricity or telephones in their homes; and their more traditional stan-
church as the body of Christ in the world today,” writes Kraybill. dard of dress.
“Yet the practical expressions of Amish faith diverge from mainline Since their arrival in the New World, the Amish have migrated to
churches.” A core concept that can help outsiders understand the more than 28 states and one Canadian province. The 20th century
Amish is Gelassenheit. Gelassenheit means “submitting, yielding to saw a remarkable increase in the Old Order Amish population. In
a higher authority,” whether that authority be God or church lead- 1900, there were approximately 3,700 Amish in North America.
ers, defines Kraybill. This concept permeates the Amish’s symbols, By 1990, the estimated figure had increased to 127,800 (adult
social and physical structures, values, and even individual person- membership approximately 56,200), and numbers continue to rise
ality. due to high birth rates and low attrition. - JANEL ATLAS
6 • Delmarva Quarterly Winter 2005
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Delmarva Quarterly Winter 2005 • 7
DELMARVA REPORTS WINTER 2005
RECREATING sketches from this voyage to map the mountains. Anyone who has visited the
Chesapeake; then his maps were used to Shore for more than 15 minutes knows that
colonize the area for the next 75 years. mountains are one thing Smith never saw
A VOYAGE
“This recreation will also give people a here. Kate O’Donnell, director of the
good picture of the area before it was pop- Historical Society of Kent County, said: “It’s
ularized; kids and adults will be introduced almost tongue in cheek, Smith’s story. I
Using original tools and
to the eco-system of the bay and the native don’t think they actually got to the middle of
techniques, the Sultana life that lived there before the bay was Kent Island where they drew the mountains.
inhabited and altered so drastically,” he They may have gone up the Potomac
Project is building John
said. enough to see mountains and figured if
Smith’s exploring shallop. Cerino explained that Sultana Projects there are mountains there, the Eastern
Inc. is still in the process of selecting a crew Shore must also have them.”
to man the model boat, but once launched Smith wrote that the country was
BY NICHOLE VATTIMOS the shallop will travel to different museums “Pleasant fertile clay soil, [with] some small
around the Chesapeake region. After that creeks; good harbors for small barks, but
In 1608 John Smith traveled up the is completed the crew will sail it from not for ships.” He described oysters that lay
Chesapeake Bay and saw a land of unbe- Jamestown, just as Smith did, 150 miles to as thick as stone, an abundance of stur-
lievable — to a European — natural the Susquehanna, and back to Jamestown geon, grampus, porpoise, seals, stingrays,
bounty. Vast schools of fish roiled the sur- to finish. “The crew will stop at different mullets, white salmon, trout, soles, perch of
face waters; clouds of birds filled the skies. places on the weekends, to make this voy- three sorts, and a variety of shellfish. He
Smith would describe oysters the size of age almost a traveling education exhibit,” also noted an abundance of bears,
saucers, in banks so great they posed navi- Cerino said. cougars, wolves, and falcons. Fish were so
gational hazards to ships. He found native There are several different ways shallops plentiful that many historical accounts
peoples unlike any he had ever seen - some have been built throughout history. describe Smith spearing them with his
of them giants. Historians describe Smith’s shallop as a 30- sword to amuse himself. This fun was cut
Now, nearing the 400th anniversary of to 35-foot boat. Smith’s shallop was oak short after he speared a stingray, and while
Smith’s travels, historians, archeologists, and had minimal decking. It had places for taking it off his sword was severely stung.
and anthropologists are having their own oars as well, so that when the wind was not Today the place Smith got stung, on the
high adventures on the Chesapeake tracing strong enough, or blowing the wrong direc- Rappahannock River, is still called ‘Stingray
the route of Smith and his crew as they tried tion, the boat could be rowed. The vessel Point.’
to map the region. was too large to make it up the rivers Smith Professor John Seidel, director of the
One project in the works in Chestertown, ventured into, so canoes were generally Washington College Archeology
Md. will celebrate Smith’s travels in the most used to navigate shallow or narrow pas- Department, observes that the little captain
appropriate way, by recreating the very sageways. was never bashful about his descriptions:
vessel Smith sailed up the Chesapeake and The picture Smith drew of the Eastern “Smith is full of himself during this time. You
then tracing his path to the Susquehanna. Shore is questionable, especially when you have to remember that he is the first man to
Sultana Projects Inc. and the Friends of the look at the first map he made and see venture into these areas and he is excited
Chesapeake National Water Trail are build-
ing a replica of the shallop Smith captained
in the bay. Here in the 21st century with
power tools and cookie cutter products
you’d think Smith’s boat could be recreated
in a couple hours, right? Wrong. The goal
of this project is to construct the 30-foot
open oak boat with tools of the time: adzes,
axes, handsaws, hand planes, pit saws,
chisels, and mallets - all applied with mus-
cle and sweat.
Once the new-made antique is ready, it
will travel as an exhibit, and finally in the
summer of 2007, the shallop will retrace
Smith’s voyage up the Chesapeake Bay and
to the Susquehanna. Cris Cerino, a mem-
ber of Sultana Projects Inc., says: “This proj-
ect was started as a three-year educational
initiative to introduce people to the trip
Smith took. It is important to educate peo-
ple on this topic because it was a major part This detail from Smith’s famous 1612 map of the Chesapeake shows
of our bay’s history. In fact, Smith used the only known rendering of the shallop he used for exploring the bay.
8 • Delmarva Quarterly Winter 2005