Table Of ContentIn Fashion: Culture, Commerce, Craft, and Identity
At the Interface/ Probing
the Boundaries
Founding Editor
Rob Fisher (Progressive Connexions)
Advisory Board
Peter Bray (University of Auckland)
Robert Butler (Elmhurst College)
Ioana Cartarescu (Independent Scholar)
Seán Moran (Waterford Institute of Technology)
Stephen Morris (Independent Scholar)
John Parry (Lewis & Clark College)
Natalia Kaloh Vid (University of Maribor)
volume 135
The titles published in this series are listed at brill.com/ aipb
In Fashion: Culture, Commerce,
Craft, and Identity
Edited by
Jacque Lynn Foltyn and Laura Petican
LEIDEN | BOSTON
Cover illustration: Woman at the River, Eden, VT, 2014, by Jennifer Garza- Cuen. Image used with permission
by the artist.
Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data
Names: Foltyn, Jacque Lynn, editor. | Petican, Laura, 1972- editor.
Title: In fashion : culture, commerce, craft, and identity / edited by
Jacque Lynn Foltyn and Laura Petican.
Other titles: In fashion (Brill Rodopi (Firm))
Description: Leiden ; Boston : Brill/Rodopi, 2022. | Series: At the
interface / probing the boundaries, 1570-7113 ; volume 135 | Includes
bibliographical references and index.
Identifiers: LCCN 2021012436 (print) | LCCN 2021012437 (ebook) |
ISBN 9789004446588 (paperback) | ISBN 9789004446595 (ebook)
Subjects: LCSH: Fashion–Social aspects. | Fashion merchandising. |
Advertising–Fashion. | Fashion design. | Clothing trade.
Classification: LCC GT525 .I6 2022 (print) | LCC GT525 (ebook) |
DDC 391–dc23
LC record available at https://lccn.loc.gov/2021012436
LC ebook record available at https://lccn.loc.gov/2021012437
Typeface for the Latin, Greek, and Cyrillic scripts: “Brill”. See and download: brill.com/b rill- typeface.
issn 1570-7 113
isbn 978-9 0-0 4-4 4658-8 (paperback)
isbn 978-9 0-0 4-4 4659-5 (e- book)
Copyright 2022 by Koninklijke Brill NV, Leiden, The Netherlands.
Koninklijke Brill nv incorporates the imprints Brill, Brill Nijhoff, Brill Hotei, Brill Schöningh, Brill Fink,
Brill mentis, Vandenhoeck & Ruprecht, Böhlau Verlag and V&R Unipress.
All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, translated, stored in a retrieval system,
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This book is printed on acid- free paper and produced in a sustainable manner.
Contents
L ist of Illustrations ix
N otes on Contributors xii
I ntroduction 1
Jacque Lynn Foltyn
part 1
Fashioning Representations: Texts, Images, and Performances
1 S ara Gay Model Girl
On Fashion Modelling in Four Girls’ Series Books in 1961 15
Erika Lunding
2 F rom the Drawer to the Public Eye
Male Nudity in Fashion Photography 44
Leonardo Iuffrida
3 G one Before It Arrived
The Legacy of the Nehru Jacket in Contemporary Anglo- American
Literature 61
Michael A. Langkjær
4 C onversation with a Japanese Designer comme des garçons 83
Sean Ryan
part 2
Fashionable: Shopping, Luxury, Vintage, and Packaging
5 D iscounting Dreams
Depravity, Consumption, and Fashion in the Nineteenth-Century
Department Store in France 99
Leonard R. Koos
6 T he Luxury, Social Media, and E- Commerce Conundrum
How Can Luxury Brands Respond to the Digital World and Remain
Exclusive, Aspirational, and Alluring? 113
Deidra Arrington
vi Contents
7 F ashionable Vintage
The Permeable Boundaries between Vintage Clothing and the Fashion
System 133
Sarah Mole
8 F ashionable through Packaging
Products with an ‘Exterior Shell’ 163
Cecilia Winterhalter
part 3
Fashion’s Materials: Craft, Industry, and Innovation
9 T he Case of Fish Skin
A Historical Material Assimilated as an Innovative Sustainable Material
for Fashion 185
Katrín María Káradóttir and Elisa Palomino
10 T he Future of Customised Garment Fit 200
Antonia Glücksman
11 M aker and Merchant
Identifying the Support Needs of New Fashion Business Models Emerging
on the Margins of the Fashion Industry 212
Hilde Heim
part 4
Museum Worthy: Fashion and the Archive
12 S tarched White Caps and Aprons
Child Nurses’ and Nannies’ Dress in Fashion, Uniform, and Costume,
1850– 2015 237
Patricia Hunt- Hurst and Charlotte J. Headrick
13 M aterial Objects and the Fashion Imaginary
The Multiple Lives of a Lobster Dress 265
Claire Eldred
Contents vii
14 L ooking Back to Look Forward
Lessons from the Archives? 284
Clare Rose
part 5
Fashioning Cultural Identities: Case Studies
15 T hree Wedding Dresses Worn by Turkish Cypriots, and Their
Stories 303
Noly Moyssi
16 A n Analysis of Japanese Fashion in Australian Print Media
(Re)presentations in Newspapers and Fashion Magazines 324
Tets Kimura
17 F ashioning Indian Identity with Khadi Denim 338
Banhi Jha
18 F ashioning Identity – A Study from Urban India 349
Usha Narasimhan
I ndex 361
Illustrations
Figures
1.1 J aney Scott, Sara Gay Model Girl, World Distributors, Manchester and London,
1961. Dust jacket illustration, anonymous illustrator. © Kungliga biblioteket/ The
National Library of Sweden 18
1.2 A FTER PARIS SHOWING – Marc Bohan, designer for the Dior line, is
surrounded by models after today’s showing won wide acclaim in Paris. From
left are: Kouka, holding her pet Yorkshire terrier, Muriel, Valeria, Laurence and
Boly. The models are known only by a single name. 1961 © Erika Lunding 23
1.3 J aney Scott, Sara Gay Model Girl in Mayfair, World Distributors, Manchester
and London, 1961. Dust jacket illustration, anonymous illustrator. © Kungliga
biblioteket/ The National Library of Sweden 25
1.4 J aney Scott, Sara Gay Model Girl in New York, World Distributors, Manchester
and London, 1961. Dust jacket illustration, anonymous illustrator. © Kungliga
biblioteket/ The National Library of Sweden 30
1.5 J aney Scott, Sara Gay Model Girl in Monte Carlo, World Distributors, Manchester
and London, 1961. Dust jacket illustration, anonymous illustrator. © Kungliga
biblioteket/ The National Library of Sweden 35
1.6 D ora Shackell, The Young Girl’s Guide to Intelligent Dressing, Mills & Boon,
London, 1960. Dust jacket illustration, anonymous illustrator. © Kungliga
biblioteket/ The National Library of Sweden 38
1.7 J aney Scott, Sara Gay Model Girl series. Dust jacket illustrations, anonymous
illustrator. © Kungliga biblioteket/ The National Library of Sweden 39
3.1 T elevision host Johnny Carson (1925–2 005) wore an Oleg Cassini- made Nehru
suit with a turtleneck sweater when hosting his Tonight Show in February
1968, thus popularizing it for an American audience. Within a day, retailers
throughout the country reported a phenomenal increase in Nehru suit and
jacket sales. © Getty Images 63
3.2 B y 1969 the Nehru jacket was being ridiculed, as witnessed by Graham Round’s
drawing for an article by Mordecai Richler satirizing with- it- professors “proudly
wearing a Nehru jacket” at the height of the contemporary youth rebellion.
Source: Saturday Night, Feb. 1969, p. 45. © Graham Round 65
7.1 M oschino – Runway – Milan Fashion Week Fall/ Winter 2018/ 19 © Photo by
Victor virgile/ Gamma- Rapho via Getty Images 142
7.2 C alvin Klein Collection – Runway – September 2017 – New York Fashion Week
© Photo by Victor virgile/ Gamma- Rapho via Getty Images 146
9.1 S almon Fish Skins at Atlantic Leather Tannery © 2019, Avigail Reiner 189
