Table Of ContentRecipes for Classics Revisited
N E W
G E R M A N
C O O K I N G
JE RE MY &
J E SS I CA N O LE N
with DREW LAZOR
photographs by JASON VARNEY
CHRONICLE BOOKS
SAN FRANCISCO
Text copyright © 2014 by Jeremy Nolen.
Photographs copyright © 2014 by Jason Varney.
All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced in
any form without written permission from the publisher.
Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data available
ISBN 978-1-4521-2806-1 (hc)
ISBN 978-1-4521-3648-6 (epub, mobi)
Manufactured in China
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CONTENTS
INTRODUCTION ..............................................................................................10
1: BREADS & SPREADS BROTZEIT ...................................................................16
Bavarian Pretzels Laugenbrezel ................................................................................18
Sourdough Barley Bread with Sage Topping Gerstenbrot ..................................................22
Golden Flaxseed Mixed Bread Leinsamen Mischbrot .......................................................25
Crispy Sauerkraut Fritters Sauerkraut Kroketten ...........................................................28
Green Asparagus and Aged Gouda Dip Spargelaufstrich ................................................. 30
Herbed Lard and Pork Cracklings Griebenschmalzbrot ................................................... 32
Sweet-and-Sour Pickled Trout Rolls Forellen Rollmops ....................................................35
Baked Smoked Fish Spread with Capers Fischaufstrich .................................................. 36
Bavarian Cheese Spread Obatzda .............................................................................38
Smoked Beef Marrowbones with Parsley-Cornichon Salad Knochenmark ............................. 39
Cold-Smoked Venison Carpaccio with Pickled Oyster Mushrooms Rehcarpaccio .................... 40
Headcheese Presskopf ...........................................................................................42
Headcheese Salad with Mustard Dressing, Red Onion, and Dill Pickle Fleischsalat ..................45
Escargots with Hazelnut–Ramp Butter Schnecken in Haselnuss-Bärlauch-Butter ................... 46
2: SALADS SALATE ........................................................................................ 48
Dandelion Green Salad with Warm Bacon–Mustard Seed Vinaigrette Löwenzahnsalat ............. 50
Kale Salad with Paprika-Dusted Hazelnuts and Mustard Vinaigrette Grünekohlsalat ................52
Kohlrabi Salad with Black Garlic–Sour Cream Dressing Kohlrabisalat ..................................54
Roasted Parsnip Salad with Hazelnuts, Blue Cheese,
and Wheat Beer Vinaigrette Pastinakensalat ................................................................55
Radish Salad with Cucumber, Watercress, Orange Segments,
and Sheep’s Milk Cheese Rettichsalat .........................................................................59
White Asparagus Salad with Frisée, Cherry Tomatoes, and Aged Gouda Vinaigrette Spargelsalat . 60
Green Bean Salad with White Beans, Tomatoes, and Pine Nuts Bohnensalat ........................ 63
Heirloom Tomato Salad with Tarragon Vinaigrette and Goat Cheese Tomatensalat ................. 64
Potato and Cucumber Salad with Dill Vinaigrette Kartoffel-Gurkensalat ...............................65
Roasted Chicken, Porcini, Potato, and Squash Salad with Smoked Barley Malt Geflügelsalat ..... 66
3: SOUPS SUPPEN ......................................................................................... 68
Mushroom and Sauerkraut Goulash Pilzgulasch ............................................................70
Cucumber and Dill Soup with Pumpernickel Crumbs Gurkensuppe .....................................72
Truffled Hazelnut and Potato Soup Haselnusssuppe .......................................................73
Asparagus and Ramp Soup with Sautéed Morels Bärlauch-Spargel-Suppe .............................74
Beer and Cheese Soup Bierkäsesuppe ........................................................................77
Creamy Sauerkraut and Wheat Beer Soup Sauerkrautsuppe .............................................78
English Pea Soup with Shrimp and Fennel Confit Frische Erbsensuppe .................................79
Duck, Barley, and Mushroom Soup Entensuppe ............................................................80
4: FISH, SHELLFISH & POULTRY FISCH UND GEFLUGEL ................................. 84
Panfried Mackerel with Parsley-Caper Brown Butter Makrelle .......................................... 86
Grilled Salmon with Horseradish and Pickled Beet Sauce Lachs .........................................87
Grilled Whole Trout Stuffed with Herbed Butter Forelle ................................................. 90
Cod-Stuffed Cabbage Rolls with Dill Cream Sauce Fischrouladen .......................................91
Seafood Stew with Paprika Broth Fischgulasch ............................................................ 94
Chicken Cutlets Stuffed with White Asparagus, Spinach, and Parmesan Cheese Hühnerrouladen .. 96
Grilled Marinated Chicken with Paprika Paprikash ........................................................ 98
Spaetzle with Chicken, Chanterelles, and Cream Jägerspätzle ........................................100
Chicken Braised in Riesling Huhn in Riesling Sosse ........................................................101
Pilsner-and-Pickle-Juice-Brined Roasted Chicken Hendl ................................................102
Duck Legs with Roasted Vegetables Entenkeule ..........................................................103
Roasted Goose with Pretzel-Apple Stuffing and Gewürztraminer Glaze Gans ......................105
5: MEAT & GAME FLEISCH UND WILDFLEISCH ...............................................108
Smoked Pork and Bacon Sausage Speckwurst ..............................................................110
Foie Gras Liverwurst Stopfleberwurst .......................................................................112
Spicy Hungarian-Style Bratwurst Ungarische Bratwurst .................................................114
Nuremberg-Style Bratwurst Bratwurst ......................................................................116
Grilled Tri-Tip with Cherry Tomato Relish Tafelspitz .....................................................119
Brisket Braised in Beer Bierfleisch ..........................................................................120
Spit-Roasted Beef Marinated in Onion, Garlic, Paprika, and Herbs Spiessbraten ....................121
Beef and Veal Meatballs with Lemon-Caper Cream Sauce Königsberger Klopse ....................124
Veal Sweetbread Schnitzel, Holsteiner-Style Kalbsbries Schnitzel ....................................126
Bone-In Pork Chop Schnitzel with Parsley Salad Schweinekotelett “Schnitzel Wiener Art” .......129
Pork Sirloin Steak, Brewmaster Style Braumeister Schweinesteak ......................................131
Spicy Marinated Pork Skewers with Peppers, Onions, and Zucchini Schaschlik ..................... 132
Roasted Rack of Pork with Apple Cider Sauce Schweinsbraten ........................................134
Roasted Lamb Shoulder with Green Herb Sauce Lammbraten in Grüner Sosse ......................137
Venison Medallions with Juniper–Black Pepper Brandy Sauce Rehmedaillons .......................139
Rabbit Braised in Spiced Red Wine with Blood Sausage Sauce Hasenpfeffer ........................140
6: VEGETABLES GEMUSE ..............................................................................142
White Asparagus with Porcini Mushroom Butter and Almonds Spargel ..............................144
Roasted Cauliflower with Egg-and-Crumb Crust Blumenkohl .........................................146
Barley-and-Mushroom-Stuffed Kohlrabi Gefülltes Kohlrabi ..............................................147
Roasted Salsify with Crispy Bacon Schwarzwurzeln .....................................................150
Radishes Braised in Chicken Stock, Butter, and Thyme Radieschen ....................................151
Creamed Spinach with Mushrooms and Crispy Shallots Rahmspinat ................................. 152
Savoy Cabbage Braised in Cider with Green Apples and Leeks Wirsing .............................. 153
Roasted Brussels Sprouts with Smoked Sausage and Shallots Rosenkohl ............................. 155
Potato, Parsnip, and Green Onion Pancakes Kartoffelpuffer ............................................156
Potato and Sauerkraut Gratin Kartoffel-Sauerkraut Gratin ..............................................157
7: NOODLES & DUMPLINGS NUDELN UND KNODEL ........................................160
Rye Egg Noodles Roggennudeln .............................................................................162
Semolina Egg Noodles Griessbandnudeln ..................................................................163
Semolina Noodles with Savoy Cabbage and Onions Krautfleckerl ......................................167
Buckwheat Spaetzle Buchweizen Spätzle ..................................................................168
Spaetzle with Ham, Peas, Cream, and Aged Gouda Schinkenspätzle .................................. 171
Spaetzle with Asparagus, Aged Gouda, and Ramp-Hazelnut Pesto Gemüsespätzle .................172
Quark Cheese, Potato, and Herb Dumplings Schupfnudeln ..............................................174
Pretzel Dumpling with Smoked Sausage Brezelknödel ....................................................176
Potato, Spinach, and Sauerkraut Pierogi with Brown Butter and Sour Cream Schlutzkrapfen .....178
Spinach-and-Potato-Stuffed Pasta with Chanterelle Mushrooms Gratinierte Maultaschen .......180
Butternut Squash–Stuffed Pasta with Chestnut and Sage Brown Butter Kürbis Maultaschen ....183
8: PICKLES & CONDIMENTS EINGELEGTES GEMUSE .....................................186
Mustard Pickles Senfgurken ..................................................................................188
Pickled Red Beets and Eggs Rote Bete und Eier ...........................................................189
Pickled Mixed Vegetables Eingelegtes Gemüse ............................................................190
Pickled Sausages Pökelwurst ..................................................................................191
Naturally Fermented Sauerkraut Sauerkraut .............................................................194
Sweet and Spicy Beer Mustard Biersenf ...................................................................196
Pilsner Horseradish Mustard Meerrettich Senf .............................................................197
9: DESSERTS NACHTISCH .............................................................................198
Gingerbread Cookies with Orange Glaze Lebkuchen .....................................................201
Aniseed Sugar Cookies Springerle .......................................................................... 203
Pumpernickel Brownies Schoko Schnitten ................................................................. 206
Cherry and Quark Cheese Strudel Kirschstrudel ......................................................... 208
Apple Strudel Apfelstrudel ....................................................................................210
Almond-Honey Tart Mandeltorte ............................................................................ 213
Hazelnut, Dark Chocolate, and White Chocolate Torte Haselnusstorte ...............................217
Bee Sting Cake Bienenstich ...................................................................................219
Quark Cheesecake with Pretzel Crust Topfentorte .......................................................222
Malted Pots de Crème Malzkreme ...........................................................................223
Steamed Plum-Stuffed Sweet Yeasted Dumplings Dampfnudeln mit Pflaumen ......................224
Roasted Apricots with Spiced Dark Lager Sauce Aprikosenkompott ..................................226
ACKNOWLEDGMENTS ...................................................................................227
RESOURCES..................................................................................................228
INDEX ..........................................................................................................229
INTRODUCTION
S A U S A G E , S C H N I T Z E L ,
S A U E R K R A U T.
ASK MOST PEOPLE what comes to mind when they hear the phrase
German food and the response is likely to be those three dishes,
quickly followed by such adjectives as heavy, fatty, and meat obsessed.
Germany is thought of as a nation of mirthful drinkers, their food nothing
more than the fuel that soaks up the beer. In other words, the German
kitchen is regarded as hearty and serviceable but certainly not great.
Here in the United States, German cuisine During this period, many of the German
is never discussed with the same reverence restaurants opened by immigrants in metro-
accorded the tables of France, Italy, and Spain. politan areas, such as Boston’s Jacob Wirth
This is, of course, nonsense. For far too long, or The Berghoff in Chicago (both still in busi-
German cooking has been underrated outside ness), built their menus around food native to
of its national boundaries, and this book aims to the mountains of Bavaria. Over time, dishes
change that. New German Cooking celebrates like pretzels, Weisswurst, potato salad, and
the flavor, freshness, variety, and seasonality of sauerbraten grew to define German food in
German cuisine. America, even though they represented only
a fraction of the tradition. Bavarian social
The earliest German immigrants to the United
culture, with its oompah bands and giant beer
States, who began arriving in the late 1600s
steins, became synonymous with German
from the west-central region known today as
culture, as well.
the Rhineland-Palatine, established them-
selves as farmers in the Midwest and the Mid- Just like France, Italy, or Spain, Germany
Atlantic. By the mid-nineteenth century, the is a country of regional cuisines representing
period that saw the heaviest influx of German a staggering diversity of dishes, styles, and
immigrants up to that point, major cities like ingredients. In the north, along the border
New York, Philadelphia, and Saint Louis had with Denmark, seafood pulled from the
developed thriving German populations of Baltic Sea and the North Atlantic dominates
their own. cutting boards. French influences creep into
NEW GERMAN COOKING 10
