Frommer's Canada

866 Pages·2008·11.893 MB·English

by  Leslie Brokaw, Hilary Davidson, Paul Karr, Bill McRae, Donald Olson

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Canada
15th Edition
by Leslie Brokaw, Hilary Davidson, Paul Karr,
Bill McRae & Donald Olson
Here’s what the critics say about Frommer’s:
“Amazingly easy to use.Very portable,very complete.”
—Booklist
“Detailed,accurate,and easy-to-read information for all price ranges.”
—Glamour Magazine
“Hotel information is close to encyclopedic.”
—Des Moines Sunday Register
“Frommer’s Guides have a way of giving you a real feel for a place.”
—Knight Ridder Newspapers
01_257067 firs.qxp 4/17/08 2:07 PM Page ii
01_257067 firs.qxp 4/17/08 2:07 PM Page i
Canada
15th Edition
by Leslie Brokaw, Hilary Davidson, Paul Karr,
Bill McRae & Donald Olson
Here’s what the critics say about Frommer’s:
“Amazingly easy to use.Very portable,very complete.”
—Booklist
“Detailed,accurate,and easy-to-read information for all price ranges.”
—Glamour Magazine
“Hotel information is close to encyclopedic.”
—Des Moines Sunday Register
“Frommer’s Guides have a way of giving you a real feel for a place.”
—Knight Ridder Newspapers
01_257067 firs.qxp 4/17/08 2:07 PM Page ii
Published by:
Wiley Publishing,Inc.
111 River St.
Hoboken, NJ 07030-5774
Copyright © 2008 Wiley Publishing, Inc., Hoboken, New Jersey. All rights reserved. No
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Wiley and the Wiley Publishing logo are trademarks or registered trademarks of John
Wiley & Sons, Inc. and/or its affiliates. Frommer’s is a trademark or registered trademark
of Arthur Frommer. Used under license. All other trademarks are the property of their
respective owners. Wiley Publishing, Inc. is not associated with any product or vendor
mentioned in this book.
ISBN 978-0-470-25706-7
Editor: mcd editorial. with William Travis
Production Editor: Eric T. Schroeder
Cartographer: Elizabeth Puhl
Photo Editor: Richard Fox
Production by Wiley Indianapolis Composition Services
Front cover photo: Banff National Park: Moraine Lake, early spring
Back cover photo: Prince Royal Island: Bear fishing in fast flowing river
For information on our other products and services or to obtain technical support, please
contact our Customer Care Department within the U.S. at 800/762-2974, outside the
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Wiley also publishes its books in a variety of electronic formats. Some content that
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Manufactured in the United States of America
5 4 3 2 1
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Contents
List of Maps ix
What’s New in Canada 1
1 The Best of Canada 7
1 The Best Travel Experiences . . . . . . . . .7 7 The Best Biking Routes . . . . . . . . . . .13
2 The Best Family Vacations . . . . . . . . . .8 8 The Best Culinary Experiences . . . . . .14
3 The Best Nature & Wildlife Viewing . . .9 9 The Best Festivals & Special Events . . .16
4 The Best Views . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .10 10 The Best Luxury Hotels & Resorts . . .17
5 The Most Dramatic Drives . . . . . . . . .11 11 The Best Bed & Breakfasts . . . . . . . .19
6 The Best Walks & Rambles . . . . . . . .11 12 The Best Camping & Wilderness
Lodges . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .19
2 Planning Your Trip to Canada 21
1 The Regions in Brief . . . . . . . . . . . . .21 Frommers.com: The Complete
2 Visitor Information & Maps . . . . . . . .25 Travel Resource . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .41
3 Entry Requirements . . . . . . . . . . . . .26 12 Staying Connected . . . . . . . . . . . . . .42
4 When to Go . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .27 Online Traveler’s Toolbox . . . . . . . . .43
Canada Calendar of Events . . . . . . .29 13 Packages for the Independent
Traveler . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .44
5 Getting There . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .30
Ask Before You Go . . . . . . . . . . . . . .45
6 Money & Costs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .33
14 Escorted General-Interest Tours . . . . .45
7 Travel Insurance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .35
15 The Outdoor Adventure Planner . . . .46
8 Health . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .36
16 Getting Around Canada . . . . . . . . . .49
9 Safety . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .37
17 Tips on Accommodations . . . . . . . . .50
10 Specialized Travel Resources . . . . . . .38
18 Tips on Dining . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .51
11 Sustainable Tourism/Eco-Tourism . . .41
Fast Facts: Canada . . . . . . . . . . . . . .52
3 Nova Scotia 58
by Paul Karr
1 Exploring the Province . . . . . . . . . . .58 4 Kejimkujik National Park . . . . . . . . . .68
2 Wolfville:Introduction to the 5 From Digby to Yarmouth:A Taste
Annapolis Valley . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .62 of the Other Nova Scotia . . . . . . . . .69
3 Annapolis Royal:Nova Scotia’s Most Whale-Watching at Digby Neck . . . .71
Historic Town . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .65
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iv CONTENTS
6 The South Shore:Quintessential 8 The Eastern Shore:Rugged
Nova Scotia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .74 Coastline from Halifax to Cape
The Dauntless Bluenose . . . . . . . . . .78 Breton Island . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .97
7 Halifax:More Than a 9 Cape Breton Island . . . . . . . . . . . . .100
Natural Harbor . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .84 10 Cape Breton Highlands
A Side Trip to Peggy’s Cove . . . . . .92 National Park . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .111
A Scenic Drive . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .113
4 New Brunswick 114
by Paul Karr
1 Exploring the Province . . . . . . . . . .114 6 Fundy National Park:Exploring
2 Around Passamaquoddy Bay: the Wild Coast . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .137
Campobello Island & More . . . . . . .119 Seeking Adventure on
3 Grand Manan Island . . . . . . . . . . . .124 Cape Enrage . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .139
7 Moncton:A Rival to Saint John . . . .141
4 Saint John:New Brunswick’s
Largest City . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .127 8 Kouchibouguac National Park . . . . .144
5 Fredericton . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .132 9 The Acadian Peninsula . . . . . . . . . .146
5 Prince Edward Island 149
by Paul Karr
1 Exploring the Island . . . . . . . . . . . .149 3 Prince Edward Island
2 Queens County:The Land National Park . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .157
of Anne . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .152 4 Charlottetown . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .159
The Birth of Anne Shirley . . . . . . . .153 5 Kings County:An Escape from
A PEI Tradition: The Lobster Anne’s Land . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .165
Supper . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .156 6 Prince County:PEI in the Rough . . .168
6 Newfoundland & Labrador 172
by Paul Karr
1 Exploring Newfoundland & 5 Terra Nova National Park . . . . . . . .188
Labrador . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .172
6 The Bonavista Peninsula:Into
2 Western Newfoundland:Your Newfoundland’s Past . . . . . . . . . . .190
Introduction to The Rock . . . . . . . . .177
7 St.John’s:Bright Lights,Big City . . .193
3 Gros Morne National Park:One
8 The Southern Avalon Peninsula . . . .201
of Canada’s Treasures . . . . . . . . . . .180
9 The Labrador Coast:Wilderness
Journey to the Center
Adventure & More . . . . . . . . . . . . .204
of the Earth . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .183
4 The Great Northern Peninsula:
Way Off the Beaten Path . . . . . . . .186
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CONTENTS v
7 Montréal 208
by Leslie Brokaw
1 Essentials . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .209 Cirque du Soleil: Montréal’s
The Neighborhoods in Brief . . . . . .211 Hometown Circus . . . . . . . . . . . . . .247
2 Getting Around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .213 6 Special Events & Festivals . . . . . . . .248
Fast Facts: Montréal . . . . . . . . . . . .216 7 Outdoor Activities & Spectator
Sports . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .248
3 Where to Stay . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .218
8 Shopping . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .251
4 Where to Dine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .229
9 Montréal After Dark . . . . . . . . . . . .255
Poutine, Smoked Meat & the
World’s Best Bagels . . . . . . . . . . . .238 10 North into the Laurentian
Mountains . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .263
5 Seeing the Sights . . . . . . . . . . . . . .238
Biker’s Paradise: The New
Sightseeing Savings . . . . . . . . . . . .241
4,000km Route Verte . . . . . . . . . . .266
8 Québec City & the Gaspé Peninsula 269
by Leslie Brokaw
1 Essentials . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .270 7 Outdoor Activities & Spectator
The Neighborhoods in Brief . . . . . .271 Sports . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .296
2 Getting Around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .274 8 Shopping . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .298
Fast Facts: Québec City . . . . . . . . .275 9 Québec City After Dark . . . . . . . . . .300
3 Where to Stay . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .277 10 Day Trips from Québec City:Ile
d’Orléans,Ste-Anne
Québec’s Ice Hotel: The Coldest
Falls & More . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .303
Reception in Town . . . . . . . . . . . . .281
11 Central Charlevoix:Baie-St-Paul,
4 Where to Dine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .284
St-Irénée,& La Malbaie . . . . . . . . .312
5 Seeing the Sights . . . . . . . . . . . . . .289
12 Upper Charlevoix:St-Siméon,Baie
2008: Québec Throws Itself Ste-Catherine & Tadoussac . . . . . . .315
a Party . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .291
13 The Gaspé Peninsula . . . . . . . . . . .318
6 Special Events & Festivals . . . . . . . .296
9 Ottawa & Eastern Ontario 323
by Paul Karr
1 Essentials . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .324 4 Seeing the Sights . . . . . . . . . . . . . .342
Fast Facts: Ottawa . . . . . . . . . . . . .328 You Say Reed-O, I Say Re-Dough...344
2 Where to Stay . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .329 A Scenic Drive . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .348
3 Where to Dine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .335 Driving Miss Daisy . . .
Bottoms Up . . . and to Gatineau Park . . . . . . . . . . . . . .350
Bombs Away . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .336 5 Special Events & Festivals . . . . . . . .351
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vi CONTENTS
6 Outdoor Activities & Spectator 8 Exploring Eastern Ontario:
Sports . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .352 Kingston & Beyond . . . . . . . . . . . . .358
The Pride of Ottawa: The Rideau A Journey into the Thousand
Canal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .354 Islands . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .360
7 Ottawa After Dark . . . . . . . . . . . . .355
10 Toronto 368
by Hilary Davidson
1 Essentials . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .369 6 Special Events & Festivals . . . . . . . .408
2 Getting Around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .376 7 Outdoor Activities &
Fast Facts: Toronto . . . . . . . . . . . . .378 Spectator Sports . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .409
3 Where to Stay . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .380 8 Shopping . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .412
4 Where to Dine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .387 9 Toronto After Dark . . . . . . . . . . . . .416
5 Seeing the Sights . . . . . . . . . . . . . .397 Landmark Theatres . . . . . . . . . . . . .418
11 Southwestern Ontario 423
by Hilary Davidson
1 Exploring the Region . . . . . . . . . . .423 3 Hamilton . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .438
The Real Uncle Tom’s Cabin . . . . . .426 4 London:A Family-Friendly Town . . .441
2 Niagara-on-the-Lake & 5 Goderich & Bayfield . . . . . . . . . . . .444
Niagara Falls . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .427 6 Stratford & the Stratford Festival . . .445
Touring Niagara-on-the-Lake The Play’s the Thing . . . . . . . . . . . .449
Wineries . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .430
Shopping in Stratford . . . . . . . . . . .451
A Family Adventure . . . . . . . . . . . .436
7 Elora & Fergus:The Elora
Niagara Parkway Commission
Gorge & More . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .452
Restaurants . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .437
12 North to Ontario’s Lakelands & Beyond 454
by Hilary Davidson
1 Exploring the Region . . . . . . . . . . .454 5 The Muskoka Lakes:A Land
2 From Collingwood/Blue Mountain of Resorts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .465
to Tobermory/Bruce Peninsula Rest, Relax, Recharge . . . . . . . . . . .471
National Park . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .457 6 Algonquin Provincial Park:
3 Manitoulin Island:A Spiritual Canoeing,Fishing & More . . . . . . .472
Escape . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .460 7 Some Northern Ontario
4 Along Georgian Bay:Midland & Highlights:Driving along
Parry Sound . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .462 Highways 11 & 17 . . . . . . . . . . . . .473
The Tragic Tale of Sainte-Marie
Among the Hurons . . . . . . . . . . . . .463
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CONTENTS vii
13 Manitoba & Saskatchewan 486
by Bill McRae
1 Exploring the Provinces . . . . . . . . .486 6 On to the Far North & Churchill,
Farm & Ranch Vacations on the World’s Polar Bear Capital . . . .514
the Prairies . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .490 7 Regina:Capital of
2 Winnipeg:Capital of Manitoba . . . .491 Saskatchewan . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .516
Taste of France across the River: The Trial of Louis Riel . . . . . . . . . . .519
The Historic District of 8 Saskatchewan Highlights along
St. Boniface . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .497 the Trans-Canada Highway . . . . . . .524
3 Whiteshell Provincial Park & 9 Saskatoon:The Progressive City
Lake Winnipeg . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .511 on the Plains . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .527
4 West along the Trans-Canada 10 Prince Albert National Park:
Highway to Spruce Woods A Jewel of the National
Provincial Park & Brandon . . . . . . .512 Park System . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .535
5 Riding Mountain National Park &
Duck Mountain Provincial Park . . . .513
14 Alberta & the Rockies 537
by Bill McRae
1 Exploring the Province . . . . . . . . . .538 5 Introducing the Canadian Rockies . . .565
Getting a Taste of the Old West 6 Kananaskis Country & Canmore . . .570
at a Guest Ranch . . . . . . . . . . . . . .541 7 Banff National Park:Canada’s Top
2 Calgary:Home of the Annual Tourist Draw . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .577
Stampede . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .541
8 Jasper National Park:Canada’s
Fast Facts: Calgary . . . . . . . . . . . . .545 Largest Mountain Park . . . . . . . . . .599
3 Southern Alberta Highlights . . . . . .561 9 Edmonton:Capital of Alberta . . . . .612
4 Waterton Lakes National Park . . . . .564 Fast Facts: Edmonton . . . . . . . . . . .615
15 Vancouver 630
by Donald Olson
1 Essentials . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .631 The Other Suspension Bridge . . . . .670
The Neighborhoods in Brief . . . . . .638 6 Special Events & Festivals . . . . . . . .674
2 Getting Around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .640 7 Outdoor Activities & Spectator
Fast Facts: Vancouver . . . . . . . . . . .643 Sports . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .675
3 Where to Stay . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .644 8 Shopping . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .683
4 Where to Dine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .654 9 Vancouver After Dark . . . . . . . . . . .685
5 Exploring Vancouver . . . . . . . . . . . .664
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viii CONTENTS
16 Victoria & British Columbia 689
by Bill McRae & Donald Olson
1 Exploring the Province . . . . . . . . . .689 5 Vancouver Island’s East Coast:
Three Trips of a Lifetime . . . . . . . . .694 Parksville to Campbell River &
Quadra Island . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .747
2 Victoria:Victorian England Meets
The Inside Passage &
Canadian Wilderness . . . . . . . . . . .696
Northern B.C. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .750
Fast Facts: Victoria . . . . . . . . . . . . .702
6 Whistler:One of North America’s
Taking Afternoon Tea . . . . . . . . . . .726
Premier Ski Resorts . . . . . . . . . . . . .754
3 The Gulf Islands . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .730
Whistler & the 2010 Winter
4 Vancouver Island’s West Coast: Olympic & Paralympic Games . . . . .756
Tofino & Long Beach . . . . . . . . . . .738
Tickets & Lodging for the
Walking the Wild Side: A Glimpse 2010 Winter Olympics . . . . . . . . . .764
of First Nations Life . . . . . . . . . . . .742
7 The Okanagan Valley:A Taste
of the Grape . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .773
17 The Yukon,Northwest Territories & Nunavut 780
by Bill McRae
1 Exploring the North . . . . . . . . . . . .781 6 The Top of the World Highway . . . .807
2 The Alaska Highway:On to the 7 North on the Dempster Highway
Last Frontier . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .787 to Inuvik . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .808
3 Whitehorse:Capital of 8 Yellowknife:Capital of the
the Yukon . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .789 Northwest Territories . . . . . . . . . . .809
4 The Chilkoot Trail & White Pass . . . .798 9 Nunavut:The Inuit Homeland . . . . .816
5 Dawson City:An Authentic
Gold-Rush Town . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .800
Appendix:Canada in Depth 821
by Bill McRae
1 History 101 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .821 3 Onward Into the 21st Century:
Dateline . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .822 The Creation of Nunavut
& More . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .829
2 Toward World Power . . . . . . . . . . .826
Canada’s Cultural Mosaic . . . . . . . .828
Index 831