fine and antique jewelry auction

202 Pages·2015·9.56 MB·English

FINE AND ANTIQUE JEWELRY AUCTION
R A G O
SUNDAY, DECEMBER 6, 2015
GREAT ESTATES
Saturday December 5, 2015 at 10am
COINS & CURRENCY
Saturday December 5, 2015 at 5:30pm
FINE AND ANTIQUE JEWELRY
Featuring the Collection of Dora Jane Janson
Sunday December 6, 2015 at 11am
FINE FURS – ONLINE ONLY AT BIDSQUARE.COM
Register online or at the auction house
Sunday December 6, 2015 at 6pm
PREVIEWS:
November 28 – December 3, 12 noon–5:00 pm • December 4, 12 noon–7:00 pm • By appointment
Doors open December 5/6 at 9:00 am • Preview online at www.ragoarts.com
“The Triumph of Design: Modernism & Elitism in France, 1914–1939”
Derek Ostergard, renowned expert in the history of European decorative arts and design
Wednesday, December 2 at 6 pm
The auction house opens on December 2 at noon. A reception begins at 5 pm.
RSVP to 609.397.9374 ext. 119 or [email protected]. If you unable to rsvp in advance, please join us if you can. All are welcome.
IMPORTANT NOTICE TO ALL BUYERS:
The buyer’s premium for each lot purchased is 25% on the first $200,000 of the hammer price, 20% on the value between $200,000 and
$3 million.
For purchases made in the room or by phone or by absentee bid and paid for by Visa, MasterCard, Discover or PayPal: A 2% surcharge will be
added to the total invoice (hammer price, buyer’s premium as above, any applicable taxes).
For purchases made through any online bidding platform, regardless of means of payment: A buyer’s premium will be applied to the hammer
price of each lot equal to 28% on the first $200,000; 23% between $200,000 and $3 million.
AUCTIONEER’S NOTES:
If you have questions on the condition of a work, we would be glad to provide our opinion, but all works are sold according to our Terms of
Sale. Please call the Auction House for complete condition reports if you cannot view in person.
IMPORTANT INFORMATION FOR PHONE BIDDERS:
Rago guarantees you a line and a phone agent for bidding until 4 PM on the day prior to an auction. After that time, we will gladly accept
your absentee bids, even during the auction (up to 30 minutes before a lot goes on the block). Changes to bid lists left with us prior to the
deadline will always be accommodated as best we can, as will follow-up phone bids for those who attend/must leave the auction and other
exceptional cases.
ONLINE BIDDING AVAILABLE AT BIDSQUARE.COM and other aggregators
CONDITION REPORTS ARE NOT LISTED IN THE CATALOGUE:
Up-to-date condition reports can be accessed by:
• Going online to www.ragoarts.com – all available condition reports will be posted along with the lot descriptions.
• Calling us at 609.397.9374
• Faxing us at 609.397.9377
• E-mailing us at [email protected]
• Speaking directly with us on the phone or in person, at the auction house from November 28.
COVER ILLUSTRATIONS: lot 1012 (front), lot 1381 (back)
CONTENTS:
Fine and Antique Jewelry, lots 1000–1520, page 1 Shipping Information, page 193
Fine Furs (online – bidsquare.com), lots 2000-2038, p. 184 Condition Report Form, page 195
Terms of Sale, page 188 Absentee Bid Form, page 196
Auction Staff, page 192
INQUIRIES/INFORMATION:
Specialist in Charge: Payments / Shipping:
Sarah Churgin Karen Davies
609.397.9374, ext. 162 or [email protected] 609.397.9374, ext. 145
Specialist: Catalogue Subscriptions and Single Orders:
Katherine Van Dell 1.866.724.6278
609.397.9374, ext. 149 or [email protected] ragoarts.com
Partner in Charge: Auction and Exhibition Information:
Miriam Tucker 1.866.724.6278
609.566.7224 ragoarts.com
Absentee Bids: Up to the Minute Information:
Eliane Talec 1.866.724.6278
609.566.7225 or [email protected] ragoarts.com
Telephone Bids: Fax Line for Bids/Condition Reports:
Guy Benthin 609.397.9377
609.397.9374, ext. 124 or [email protected]
E-mail for Bid Forms:
Condition Reports:
[email protected]
Robin Harris
609.397.9374, ext. 119 or [email protected]
New Bidder Registration:
Eliane Talec
609.566.7225 or [email protected]
1003 1010 1013 1025
1090 1107 1134 1140
1151 1160 1167 1185
1205 1229 1235 1280
1369 1380 1389 1392
1412 1426 1427 1499
COMMON ABBREVIATIONS: CONVERSIONS:
Carat(s): ct(s). 1 carat = .20 grams = ct.
European-cut: OEC 1 ounce troy = 31.1 grams = 20 DWT
Gold-filled: GF
Grams: gs. GLOSSARY OF PERIODS:
Gross weight: GW Georgian: (1714–1830)
Karat gold: k Victorian: (1837–1901)
Millimeters: mm. Art Nouveau: (1890–1905)
Old mine-cut: OMC Belle Epoque / Edwardian: (1901–1914)
Ounce(s) troy: OT Art Déco: (1918–1939)
Pennyweights: dwt. Retro: (1935–1945)
Platinum: pt. Antique: (more than 100 years old)
Round Brilliant Cut Diamond: RBC
Rose gold: rg.
Sterling: sterl.
Total Weight: TW, listed in carats (cts.)
White gold: wg.
Yellow gold: yg.
TABLE OF CONTENTS
Buccellati: 1279, 1280, 1282, 1289, 1290, 1292, 1293, 1296, 1297, Tiffany, Louis Comfort: 1023, 1024, 1025
1298 Van Cleef & Arpels: 1276, 1283, 1284, 1476
Cartier: 1071, 1078, 1205, 1347, 1356, 1363, 1376, 11427, 1429, Webb, David: 1186, 1188, 1191, 1195, 1197, 1202, 1203, 1224,
1430, 1431 1227, 1369, 1370
Chanel, Coco: 1287 Wiese, Jules & Froment, Meurice: 1132, 1150, 1152
Colonna, Edward : 1014 Significant Jade and Coral: 1050, 1123, 1146, 1218, 1222, 1229,
Dunay, Henry: 1249 1233, 1243, 1338, 1340, 1341, 1342
Giuliano, Carlo: 1004, 1005, 1148 Timepieces: 1016, 1067, 1074, 1080, 1113, 1154, 1165, 1343,
1354, 1357, 1359, 1366, 1368, 1430, 1462, 1463, 1466, 1483-
Hermès: 1481
1505
Jensen, Georg: 1042, 1047
Certified Diamonds: 1268, 1353, 1380, 1439, 1440, 1441, 1443,
Lalique, Réne: 1003, 1008 (attr.), 1013, 1049
1445, 1448, 1449, 1450, 1451, 1460
Leiber, Judith: 1512, 1513, 1514, 1515, 1516, 1517, 1518
Significant Gemstones and Natural Pearls: 1314, 1315, 1329,
Loloma, Charles: 1231, 1232, 1234, 1235 1330, 1401, 1402, 1405, 1410, 1412, 1414, 1415, 1421, 1422, 1423,
Marcus & Co.: 1010 (attr.), 1016, 1017, 1018, 1257A 1426, 1433, 1437, 1439, 1453
Schlumberger, Jean: 1201 (attr.) Vertu: 1049, 1050, 1051, 1052, 1054, 1071, 1073, 1297, 1299,
1301, 1302, 1304, 1367, 1387, 1388
Tiffany & Co.: 1027, 1062, 1110, 1158, 1160, 1201, 1206, 1265,
1281, 1300, 1336, 1355, 1359, 1390, 1394, 1396, 1399, 1454,
1456, 1457, 1468, 1475, 1487
1000: ANDRE KAUFFER DIAMOND THISTLE
CORSAGE ORNAMENT
A large Lorraine thistle jewel rendered in silver-topped gold, frosted
with rose cut diamonds in original case. Marked Andre Kauffer. Ft
(farbricane) Joaillier-Orfevre, Nancy. French marks for 18k and silver.
Maker marks of Francois Fleuret and A. Kauffer, Nancy, ca. 1890.
8”, transforms to 6” by removing longest drop. 63.7 dwt. Note: The
Lorraine Thistle, a favorite of Andre Kauffer, adorns his letter paper
and repeats in the silver punch bowls he designed for presentation
to the Russian Squadron in 1893. His work appears in the collection
of Museum of Decorative Arts, Paris, Ecole de Nancy.” Provenance:
Collection of Dora Jane Janson.
$9,000–12,000
RAGO ARTS AND AUCTION CENTER > 1
1001
1001: FRENCH ART NOUVEAU CARVED HORN JEWELRY
Two pieces: Carved and tinted horn ornamental hair comb in the form of
wild roses, one blossom centers a blue sapphire in yellow gold, scratch
maker mark ENK, 5 1/4”, in original case “Hosaka, Paris”; Georges Pierre
carved and tinted Cicadid necklace with art glass pendant, on original
cord with amber beads, 4 1/4” ornament. Provenance: Collection of Dora
1002 Jane Janson. Literature: Dora Jane Janson. From Slave to Siren. The Duke
University Museum of Art. 1971. Cat. #101, 102.
$2,000–3,000
1002: FRENCH JAPANESQUE GOLD CICADA BROOCH
Highly realistic 18k gold insect with ruby eyes, ca. 1890. Eagle mark
for 18k, half struck and indistinct maker mark. 2”. 6.8 dwt. Note: The
cicada represents music and the sun and is a symbol of Provence, France.
Provenance: Collection of Dora Jane Janson. Literature: Janson, Dora Jane.
1002 detail
From Slave to Siren. The Duke University Museum of Art. 1971. Cat. #111.
$1,200–1,800
2 updated catalogue and condition information on ragoarts.com
Author and scholar Dora Jane Janson was a woman who knew and loved jewelry. Born Dora Jane Heineberg in Philadelphia
in 1902, she met her future husband, Horst W. Janson, while an undergraduate at Radcliffe College in Cambridge, MA. They
married after his Ph.D. was completed at Harvard in 1941. She helped shape, and is credited as co-author, on a number of
his books, notably The Story of Painting for Young People (1954) and the seminal History of Art (1962). In 1971 she curated
an innovative exhibition of jewelry at Duke University’s Nasher Museum of Art entitled From Slave to Siren: The Victorian
Woman and Her Jewelry from Neoclassic to Art Nouveau. The catalog of the same name, which she wrote to accompany the
exhibition, was one of the first books on the subject of antique jewelry for the lay reader, upholding the Janson tradition of
writing prose both lucid and learned.
1003: RENE LALIQUE “OMBELLES” HORN AND DIAMOND HAIR COMB
White horn carved as umbel blossoms with rose cut diamond dew drops, ca. 1900.
Incused mark Lalique. 3 3/8” x 4 3/4”. 31.4 gs. Note: Pencil sketch with color
described as “design drawing without deviation”: Barton, Sigrid. Rene Lalique
Schmuck und Objets d’Art . Cat.# 103A, pg. 104. Provenance: Collection of Dora Jane
Janson.
$7,000–9,000
RAGO ARTS AND AUCTION CENTER > 3
1004 1005
1004: GIULIANO ENAMELED 18K GOLD IVY VINE TIARA
Nine naturalistic variegated ivy leaves of shaded translucent enameled
gold supported by gold stems and vine, 1895-1915. Marks for Carlo and
Arthur Giulliano. 2 1/2” x 4 1/4” x 4 1/2”. 34.8 dwt. GW
$1,000–1,000
1005: GIULIANO JAPANESQUE WATERFOWL BROOCH
Painted enamel marshland with herons, 18k gold frame with rows of enamel
shot, granulation and wirework, ca. 1880 (as found). Retailed by S.J.
Phillips LTD, with box. Marked tag CG, Carlo Giuliano, below hinge. 1 1/2”.
8.8 dwt.
$2,500–3,000
4 updated catalogue and condition information on ragoarts.com
1006: THREE FRENCH ART NOUVEAU COMBS: VEVER, GAILLARD, ETC.
Blonde horn carved as stylized twin peacock feathers with enameled gold eyes,
marked L. Gaillard (cat. #109); Carved wood as a cluster of violets set with
a pearl “dew drop”, marked VEVER (cat. #101); Carved horn with silver fascia
depicting flowing haired woman and flowers, French mark for silver, indistinct
maker mark (poss. Albert Marionnet). Longest 5 1/2”. Provenance: Collection of
Dora Jane Janson. Literature: Janson, Dora Jane. From Slave to Siren. The Duke
University Museum of Art. 1971.
$2,000–3,000
RAGO ARTS AND AUCTION CENTER > 5