House of Fashion: Haute Couture and the Modern Interior

297 Pages·2018·6.67 MB·English

by  Jess Berry

HOUSE
OF FASHION
HOUSE
OF FASHION
Haute Couture
and the Modern Interior
JESS BERRY
CONTENTS
List of Figures
List of Plates
Acknowledgments
Introduction: The House of Fashion
1 Fashion, Modernity, and the Interior
2 Setting the Stage: Salons of Seduction
3 Private Settings, Public Lives: Defining Artistic Identity
through the Home
4 Architects of Dress Reform
5 Framing the Modern Woman: Performing Fashionable
Lifestyles
6 Behind the Curtain: Staging Craft in the Atelier during the
Golden Age of Couture
7 Decadent Decors: Designing Desire through Boutique
Display
8 Beyond Modern: An Overview of the Relationship between
Fashion and the Interior from the 1960s to the Present
Notes
Bibliography
Index
LIST OF FIGURES
1.1 Interior at the Paris Exposition by Georges de Feure, Paris France
1900. Credit: © Victoria and Albert Museum, London
1.2 Living room for the Martine Shop decorated by Paul Poiret. Paris,
Grand Palais, International Exhibition for Modern and Industrial
Decorative Arts, 1925. Credit: Roger Viollet/Contributor. Collection:
Roger Viollet/Getty Images
1.3 Denise Poiret in the apartments, Maison Paul Poiret, 1919.
Photographed by Delphi. Credit: Keystone/France/Contributor.
Collection: Gamma Keystone/Getty Images
1.4 The Modern Woman, Gabrielle “Coco” Chanel, 1931. Credit:
Betmann Contributor. Collection: Bettman/Getty Images
1.5 Christian Dior selecting fabrics in the Paris atelier, 1950s. Credit:
Loomis Dean/Contributor. Collection: The Life Picture
Collection/Getty Images
2.1 Mirrored Salons at Maison Worth, published in Createurs de la
Mode, 1910. Philadelphia Museum of Art Library and Archives
2.2 Salon de Vente at Maison Worth, published in Createurs de la
Mode, 1910. Philadelphia Museum of Art Library and Archives
2.3 Salon de Vente at Maison Cheruit, published in Createurs de la
Mode, 1910. Philadelphia Museum of Art Library and Archives
2.4 Maison Myrbor Interior by Andre Lurçat. Photographed by Thérèse
Bonney, 1929. © Ministère de la Culture-Médiathèque du Patrimoine
RMN-Grand Palais/Thérèse Bonney
2.5 Maison Myrbor Interior by Andre Lurçat. Photographed by Thérèse
Bonney, 1929. © Ministère de la Culture-Médiathèque du Patrimoine
Dist. RMN-Grand Palais/Thérèse Bonney
2.6 Helena Rubenstein Apartment, 715 5th Avenue, New York, 1930s.
Credit: Mcny/Gottscho-Schleisner/Contributor. Collection: Archive
Photos/Getty Images
2.7 Madeleine Vionnet Salon, Georges de Feure, Art et Decoration
Cronique, 1924
2.8 Mannequin descending the mirrored Staircase at Maison Chanel,
1930s. Credit: Francois Kollar (1904–1979). Copyright RMN-Gestion
droit d’auteur Francois Kollar. Photo: Ministère de la Culture-
Mediatheque de l’Architecture et du Patrimoine RMN Grand Palais
3.1 The Eastern Cabinet in Jacques Doucet’s Apartment at 33 rue
Saint-James, Neuilly-sur-Sien, 1930. Photo © CCI/Bridgeman
Images
3.2 Denise Poiret at home, interior designed by Paul Poiret for Atelier
Martine. Photo: Lipnitzki. Collection: Roger Viollet/Getty Images
3.3 Bedroom belonging to Jeanne Lanvin, designed and photographed
by Armand-Albert Rateau, 1920–1925. Biblioteque des Arts
Decoratifs, Paris, France/Bridgeman Images
3.4 Robert Fournez and Armand-Albert Rateau, Pavilion d’Elegance,
1925. Ministére de la Culture-Médiathèque du Patrimoine RMN-
Grand Palais/Image RMN-GP
3.5 Alexander Liberman, Coco Chanel in her apartment, 1951. Artstor:
Alexander Liberman Photography Archive. Copyright J. Paul Getty
Trust
3.6 Coco Chanel in her apartment at the Ritz, 1930s. Ministere de la
Culture-Médiathèque du Patrimoine RMN-Grand Palais/Image
RMN-GP Francois Kollar
3.7 Elsa Schiaparelli on her Jean Michel Frank-designed lounge in her
apartment at rue Barbet-de-Jouy, 1935. Credit: Sasha/Stringer.
Collection: Hulton Archive/Getty Images
3.8 Horst P Horst, Vogue 1946, Countess de Rouvre in Schiaparelli’s
dining room. Horst P Horst/Contributor. Collection: Conde Nast
Collection via Getty Images
4.1 Dress designed by Henry van de Velde worn by his wife Maria
Sethe, c.1902. Bridgeman Images
4.2 Fitting Rooms at Swestern Floge, designed by Joseph Hoffman and
Kolomon Moser, 1904. Credit: Imagno Editorial. Collection: Hulton
Archive/Getty Images
4.3 Emily Floge in the Salon Schwestern Floge, 1910. Credit: Imagno
Editorial, Collection: Hulton Archive/Getty Images
4.4 Roger Viollet, A view of interior decoration of Paul Poiret for Atelier
Martine presented at the Grand Palais, Paris 1924. Credit: Roger
Viollet. Collection: Roger Viollet/Getty Image
4.5 Adolf Loos House Larochegasse 3 in Vienna, photographed by
Johanna Fiegl 1912–1913. Credit: Imagno. Collection: Hulton
Archive/Getty Images
4.6 Josephine Baker sitting on a tiger rug, Collection: Hulton
Archive/Getty Images
4.7 Adolf Loos, model for Josephine Baker House. © Albertina
Museum, Vienna
4.8 Le Corbusier and Pierre Jeanerret, Maison La Roche 1923–1925.
Photo by Ruth Berry 2016
5.1 Vogue 1926, Illustration of a model wearing Chanel’s little black
dress. Collection: Conde Nast/Getty Images
5.2 American bar on the terrace of Thérèse Bonney’s Apartment,
Photograph Thérèse Bonney. © The Regents of the University of
California, The Bancroft Library, The University of California,
Berkeley/Smithsonian Institute Image License
5.3 Tamara de Lempicka wearing Marcel Rochas. Photographed by
Madame d’Ora, 1931. Credit: Imagno Editorial. Collection: Hulton
Archive/Getty Images
5.4 Smoking room in the maison studio of Tamara de Lempicka
designed by Robert Mallet-Stevens 1930. Photograph: Thérèse
Bonney. Ministere de la Culture Médiatèque du Patrimoine RMN
Grand Palais/Thérèse Bonney
5.5 Eileen Gray, Rue de Lota Apartment, 1921. © National Museum of
Ireland
5.6 Baron Adolph de Meyer, Madame Mathieu Levy in her Rue de Lota
Apartment, seated on Eileen Gray’s Pirogue Day Bed. c. 1922. ©
National Museum of Ireland
5.7 Charlotte Perriand Bar Counter, 1925. Photographed by Therese
Bonney. © The Regents of the University of California, The Bancroft
Library, The University of California, Berkeley/Smithsonian Institute
Image License
6.1 Atelier de Fourrures, in Createurs de la Mode, 1910. Phialadelphia
Museum of Art Library and Archives
6.2 Loomis Dean, Christian Dior selecting jewelry in the atelier. Credit:
Loomis Dean. LIFE Picture collection/Getty Images
6.3 Loomis Dean fitting a dress on a model in the atelier, 1957. Credit:
Loomis Dean. LIFE Picture collection/Getty Images
6.4 Nina Leen, Jacques Fath adjusting the fitting of a gown in the
atelier, 1950s. Credit: Nina Leen. Collection: LIFE Picture
Collection/Getty Images
6.5 Nina Leen, Pierre Balmain in the atelier observing a mannequin,
1951. Credit: Nina Leen. Collection: LIFE Picture Collection/Getty
Images
6.6 Jacques Fath at work in the atelier, 1950s. Credit:
Keystone/France/Contributor. Collection: Hulton archive/Getty
Images
7.1 Rue des Boutiques at the Paris Exhibition International of
Decorative and Industrial Arts, 1925. Credit: Roger Viollet.
Collection: Roger Viollet/Getty
7.2 Film still from Le P’tit Parigot, costumes by Sonia Delaunay, set
design by Robert Mallet-Stevens. Credit: Ullstein Bild. Collection:
Ullstein Bild/Getty Images
7.3 René Herbst, Salon des Artists Decorateurs, Sonia Delaunay fabric,
1928. Photographed by Thérèse Bonney. © The Regents of the
University of California, The Bancroft Library, The University of
California, Berkeley/Smithsonian Institute Image License
7.4 Saleswoman and clients in the Schiaparelli Boutique, 1950. Credit:
Keystone France. Collection: Gamma Keystone/Getty Images
7.5 Horst P. Horst, Vogue 1935 Boutique at Lucien Lelong. Credit:
Horst P Horst/Contributor. Collection: Conde Nast Collection via
Getty Images